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FatJackDurham

Twofer: two 3xx Series for $100 (pics added)

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FatJackDurham

Got a twofer today, a 310=8 and a 314=8 for $100. Condition s not terrible, but both have dinged up consoles... I thought I was the only one who rolled tractors....

 

anyway, the 310 needs a starter at least and the 314 has flat tires and the steering “skips” when the force is too high. The 310 has a cast iron Koehler, the ‘14 some kind of OHV Koehler. 

 

Thats is all I know, pictures maybe tomorrow. I am hoping that both engines run.

 

but some questions... do the 3 4 5 series all have the same frame, fenders and foot rests, with just different sized tires, and different hoods and consoles? What about transmissions, rims, and axles?

Edited by FatJackDurham
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JAinVA

The  300,400 and 500 have the same frame.The 520 frames can have 2 extra holes to locate the gear reduction steering base.The 300 and 400 are pretty much the same except some wiring differences and 1" rear axles and 6" tires with longer spindles on a lot of the 300s.Hood stand is different on the 520 from the  300 and 400. The foot rests  and fender pans will all interchange.The manual transmissions will all interchange but the 300 series used a lot of 4 pinion 1" axle units,The 10 horse machines I have seen have one. The Eaton 1100 hydro  will interchange across the range.

Edited by JAinVA
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FatJackDurham

What is the difference in axle and pinion between the 300 and 400 and what does it affect? What do you mean longer spindle?

Edited by FatJackDurham

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JAinVA

For cutting grass there is no difference between the 1"axled and 1 1/8'" machines.The difference is overall strength.The  prefered unit for heavy use such as plowing dirt or pushing with a blade is the 8 pinion 1 1/8" unit.With 6" wheels and tires the front will be 1" lower than with an 8" setup.To make the 6 inch setup level the spindles were made longer vertically to compensate and raise the front. 

Edited by JAinVA
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FatJackDurham

Oh, I see. Interesting. When I take pictures, I’ll be sure to shoot those parts.

 

thanks for the explanation.

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FatJackDurham

The 314 has a Kohler CH14S motor. I didn't see it on the master model list. Is this some after market thing or did WH actually use this? The way they put it together looks almost natural. Both tractors have strange damage to the console and hoods. 

 

I put tubes in the 314 front tires, and added a battery, it started and drove fine, but the steering skips cogs. Thoughts on that? Also, the left side front spindle is bent. If I use a torch to straighten it, do you think it would hold? 

 

I'll need to order a starter for the 310.

 

I'm getting a kind of big herd, I'd like to thin it. I was hoping the 314-8 would be in good enough shape to put my extra snowblower on and sell it for $600. But, I am concerned about the steering and the front spindles. The rear tires are in great shape, and the weights are decent. As well, the rear body panels are all in better shape than on my 416-8. I could part this out, sell the motor, and swap out the panels and wheels for my... But I hate to tear up a tractor that actually drives, even though it's been beaten on.

 

314-8.JPG.4bf9cffea84dbdfeb9bffcf65978d28b.JPG

 

310-82.JPG

14HP.jpg

314-8damage.jpg

herd.JPG

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gwest_ca

Model CH14S-1838 used in

1998 model 73448

1999-2001 model 73449

 

The engine was made in 1998 so a 1998 or 1999 tractor

 

Garry

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FatJackDurham

Thanks, so it’s original then. Good to know, more worth saving instead of stripping.

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JAinVA

Both machines look good.Not like they have been left on in the weather for very long.The shaft that the steering wheel  is attached to is located by a collar with a set screw or a spacer and snap ring.If no teeth are missing on the pinion or fan gear then there must be some vertical slop in the steering shaft.Look at the area where the shaft goes through the hood stand around the battery area.If you pull up on the steering wheel and feel much vertical motion that may be the problem.The sheet metal 

that the upper shaft bushing is located in can be distorted by constantly pulling up on the steering when mounting the tractor.This can cause  upward motion in the steering shaft and resulting the skipping.

Edited by JAinVA
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cleat

As JA said, and also bushings wear in the steering block.

 

It can be drilled and re-bushed with bronze bushings.

 

Also the lower steering shaft can be shimmed out by adding washers behind the cotter key at the steering block end.

 

Some later models had a nut there that you simply pull a cotter key then turn a nut to adjust and reinsert the cotter key.

 

I do this with all my machines and tighten things up until there is no play in the steering but also no binding.

 

Make sure the steering wheel is straight when the wheels are straight ahead while doing this.

 

Cleat

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FatJackDurham
11 hours ago, JAinVA said:

The sheet metal that the upper shaft bushing is located in can be distorted by ..."

 

The sheet metal is severely destorted and damaged on both consoles anyway, so that may have something to do with it. 

 

I'm still deciding what to do. I may not do anything this year for either except get them running, as I need to finish some work on the house before winter. 

 

My instinct is to swap the nice body panels and lights and such with my two main tractors, the 416-8 and the 520-H, then use the 300's as first time rebuild and paint test victims next summer. I just won't feel comfortable selling either until I am sure they will be reliable. They are a good enough deal that if I take the nice Carlisles and weights and panels, I'll have had a net-plus effect on my other tractors.

 

Unless anyone has better ideas, or if they need a 14 HP motor or something. I get the starter for the 10 HP today. If that fires up and drives, I'll put my frankendeck on it and see how it mows. That one, I might just put back up for sale as a mower, since I don't need the deck or tractor. 

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FatJackDurham

Very close to making the 310-8 a runner. After fixing the points, adding a starter, checking the fuel flow, I was about to take off the carb and clean it, but I decided to check the gap on the plug and see if it was moist.

 

Gap was tiny. Less than a tenth. I gapped it back to .035, put it in cranked and got sputter and back fires from the engine. I figured I’d need to check the timing more precisely. So I took off the points cover and looked around for some clips to hold my VOM probes in place. 

 

While I was doing that, I took the plug out and looked. THat gap was smushed back down again! I don’t think its the piston because when I tried to use a screwdriver in the plug hole, there is something blocking it from going down. Is there some kind of peice in the head that protects the plug? Or is the plug offset?

 

Anyway, I check the plug number and its the complete wrong plug, too long by far for the engine. Tractor supply didn’t have one, so I ordered one on Prime, to deliver by Saturday. That will give me time to get some alligator clips to adjust the timing properly. Then, I fully expect this pony to run with the herd!

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