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bloomfieldt

Rebuild or go new

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bloomfieldt

I have a Kohler M14 on my 414 and it blew a connecting rod. I am not skilled enough to rebuild it myself so I am looking at taking it to a shop or buying something new. Tractor had 2100 hours on it but is still in solid shape. Need some advise

 

1. What can I expect to pay for a rebuild at a shop?

 

2. What can I expect to pay to if I went with a new engine?

 

Dont even want to consider buying a new tractor. Love my Horse

 

 

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prondzy
56 minutes ago, bloomfieldt said:

 

Dont even want to consider buying a new tractor. Love my Horse

 

 

THEN REBUILD IT:greetings-clappingyellow:

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SylvanLakeWH

:text-welcomeconfetti:

 

You are in the right spot for all things :wh:!!!

 

Not a motor guy so I had a shop rebuild my Kohler 10 about 2 years ago. Smoked like a chimney and made unnatural sounds...Needed a bore and some new guts...Spent around $750 if I remember correctly. Probably more than many do it yourselfers would say reasonable, but I like the 10 HP Kohler and the tractor was free to me so it was good. Kept the tractor with an original engine as well...

 

A lot of folks have mentioned the Predator engines from Harbor Freight in other posts as very inexpensive and decent to operate. When I looked into it they were about 1/2 the price for what I paid to have the Kohler rebuilt. But for me, keeping the Kohler was important and I did not want to change the tractor in that regard. 

 

I would rebuild it...

 

:twocents-02cents:

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WHX??

:text-yeahthat: Rebuild but you are talking to a crowd here that has vast knowledge of rebuilding one with his own hands save for machine work required.

Lots of questions for you tho Bloom. Are you OK with pulling the motor and taking it to a competent shop? Are you comfortable  putting it back in the tractor and firing it up? All these things and more is what the price hinges on. For example if one of us skilled were to do this I would venture to guess with an oversize piston and possibly under rod you would be looking at around 500 with parts and machining expenses.  That's if you do it yourself Less than a big box cheapy tractor  for sure. 

If you would have to take the tractor to a (competent) shop for a turnkey rebuild you would be more close to 1000 or better and more with labor. Still cheaper than a big box cheapy and may still have a decent tractor. 

Mike above could rebuild your motor in his sleep but we know that is just out of some guys skill set. We also know where to get decent parts on the cheap so we can help you out with that if needed so that helps keep your rebuild price down.

On the repower side the expense can be about the same as a rebuild if you have to have  somebody do it all for you. Most of the fellas here that have done a repo  are comfortable to do it themselves thus a lower cost than a rebuild. 

Good luck..keep us posted and :WRS:

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Bill D

There is a guy selling a 314-8 on the Hudson Valley Craigslist for $350.  Search Wheelhorse as one word to find it.  Nice looking machine in the picture.  It could supply you with a good motor and spare parts!

 

Bill

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KC9KAS

@bloomfieldt :text-welcomeconfetti: to :rs:

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Jerry77
7 hours ago, Bill D said:

There is a guy selling a 314-8 on the Hudson Valley Craigslist for $350

 

You really ought to check this out...save a ton of pain....:twocents-02cents:

 

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953 nut

:WRS:

Selecting a shop to do our work can be an adventure. Check with some equipment rental stores to see who they use for engine rebuilds, they will know who does good work. I would suggest you have the shop obtain all parts for you. If you furnish parts in an effort to save a few dollars and the engine develops a problem thy will put the blame on "your" parts.

With proper maintenance you can expect to get another three decade of service or more.

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richmondred01

I’ve been Rebuilding the Kohlers for 40 plus years.

bored, crank ground, valve seat ground, new piston, rings, rod, valves, seals and gaskets is typically what I do.

in some cases the valve guides and bearings are replaced. It will last another 30-40 years if maintained.

 

im not a fan of the predator engines and I don’t want to start a debate over that. But I’ve bought several tractors over the past few years with the predators installed. Everyone of them had failed. I dont even try to fix them. They go where they belong. To the scrapyard. 

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oldredrider

You have to give the Predators their due. They are inexpensive. But, they are a "disposable" engine.

After they have run their course, because they are not worth rebuilding, instead of scrapping them, repurpose.

They make pretty good door stops in the garage. :handgestures-thumbupright:

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richmondred01
33 minutes ago, oldredrider said:

You have to give the Predators their due. They are inexpensive. But, they are a "disposable" engine.

After they have run their course, because they are not worth rebuilding, instead of scrapping them, repurpose.

They make pretty good door stops in the garage. :handgestures-thumbupright:

Yes. You make an outstanding point however, I really like the way they sound hitting the bottom of the dumpster. 

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Gmcgruther
On 8/3/2018 at 10:06 AM, richmondred01 said:

I’ve been Rebuilding the Kohlers for 40 plus years.

bored, crank ground, valve seat ground, new piston, rings, rod, valves, seals and gaskets is typically what I do.

in some cases the valve guides and bearings are replaced. It will last another 30-40 years if maintained.

 

im not a fan of the predator engines and I don’t want to start a debate over that. But I’ve bought several tractors over the past few years with the predators installed. Everyone of them had failed. I dont even try to fix them. They go where they belong. To the scrapyard. 

 

I'm usually building engines making 500 Horsepower to 950 plus Horsepower. That being said, is there afternarket connecting rods available and can the rotating assembly be balanced? I like my engine rotating assembly balance within half of a gram to quarter of a gram. A smooth running engine is always a happy engine. No, I don't plan on hot rodding this 10 Horsepower Kohler engine but I want my grand kids to say that my grandpa built that engine to last not to scream.

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WVHillbilly520H
3 hours ago, Gmcgruther said:

 

I'm usually building engines making 500 Horsepower to 950 plus Horsepower. That being said, is there afternarket connecting rods available and can the rotating assembly be balanced? I like my engine rotating assembly balance within half of a gram to quarter of a gram. A smooth running engine is always a happy engine. No, I don't plan on hot rodding this 10 Horsepower Kohler engine but I want my grand kids to say that my grandpa built that engine to last not to scream.

Cool stuff like this aye? I dabble a little bit in that too.

IMAG0589.jpg

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oliver2-44

It’s one thing to balance a 900 hp hot rod engine,.  For the sake of this post regarding a good solid worker tractor engine, the Kohler crankshafts we’re balanced shen new, but these old Kohlers don’t need to be rebalanced on a rebuild.

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slider1_us
On ‎9‎/‎10‎/‎2018 at 4:51 AM, WVHillbilly520H said:

Cool stuff like this aye? I dabble a little bit in that too.

IMAG0589.jpg

yes there is after market billet rods and cranks for kohler  you should check out mid west pullers 

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953 nut

One of the best sites for Kohler engines I have found is Brian Miller's, check it out. He sells stock and performance parts as well as giving out a sorts of useful information.   http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/index.htm

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DennisThornton
3 hours ago, 953 nut said:

One of the best sites for Kohler engines I have found is Brian Miller's, check it out. He sells stock and performance parts as well as giving out a sorts of useful information.   http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/index.htm

Here's where you go to learn all about Wheel Horses.  Brian's is where you go to learn all about Kohlers!

 

That said, when I need an engine I buy one with the tractor still attached!  Cheaper than just the engine!  Plus I can see and hear it run! 

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Jerry77
16 hours ago, kwalshy said:

Or buy a rebuilt engine from someone like:

 

Richmondred01....one of our members and a very dependable guy...

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The Gman

This spring I found a guy who turned a hobby into a good small business. All my engine stuff now comes from from him. It's all $$CDN$$ but gives you a fair reference as to what some $$ values may run (cheaper for you I expect).

I just did a complete rebuild on a K341, my cost for all the parts I needed and machine work was $220.00.

Food for thought???????

 

Hi Gary
will be growing inventory, if anything your after let me know and I can see what I can do.

pricing   (note pistons come in std + .010  +.020 +.030 +.040)  connecting rods std -.010 -.020

kohler rebuild kit including 
piston (rings, wrist pin, clips) complete gasket set, connecting rod - $160

individual pricing 
air filter with pre filter 14.50
carburetor $60
k301 piston $59.16
K321 piston $65.73
K341 piston $78.88
k241 piston waiting on shipment
k241 connecting rod $$46
K301 connecting rod $46
K341 connecting rod $52.58
K241 - K341 complete gasket set $65.73
exhaust valve $26.50
intake valve $20
coil $46
points $19.71
spark plug champion cj8 $6.56
carburetor connector (90 elbow on carburetor to fuel line, metal) $10.50
head gasket individual $13.14
governor arm ball joint arm that connects to carburetor ball $13.14
fuel filter (two units) $9.20
gas line (pricing at time of sale)
valve guides (not in stock, finding source)
kohler crank bearings (price to be determined when stock arrives) 

***************** Machining service pricing *************************   if purchased rebuild kit 
bore and hone $60
valve job $50 a valve ( includes grind face and stem, cutting valve seat)  if purchasing new valve a discount on the job is applied
if pressed in dip stick tube needs removal $10
blocks should be bare when delivered

 

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