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echoffmann

Wheel Horse 268H will not charge!?

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So, I have a 2001 268-H, 72087-210000269 that had the motor go out. I’ve since replaced the CV18S with a CV20S...changing the stator and flywheel over to keep stock wiring and charging. Everything is stock for wiring and all functions work great EXCEPT for charging?!?! Eventually the  battery drains  and it won’t start, just clicks.

The battery icon dash light is on stating there is an issue with the charge circuit, I checked the regulator B+ terminal and it’s putting out 12.4v at idle and high speed. I believe it doesn’t ramp up to full charge unless it see’s a need to charge correct, so it’s not seeing the battery?

 

Regulator is brand new.

 

With key on:
Battery - 12.4v
Regulator - 12v

 

Idle
Battery - 12.78v
Regulator - 12.4v

 

High RPM
Battery - 12.78v
Regulator - 12.4v

 

With the stator plug unplugged, testing across the two white wires it is 0.2 for resistance (good from what I read) and each one to ground is infinite, also good I believe.

My meter doesn’t do DC (from what I can tell) but at idle, stator plug unplugged, I see 17 vAC at idle and 40 vAC at high RPM.

 

What am I missing? Not the best at wire schematics but the demystification guide shows the purple wire going into the key from 25amp fuse(power from stator), then a red from the key going to starter post along with positive battery cable, I’m guessing thats where the charge is supposed to come from once started?

It sure seems like the components check out, but still no charge, any ideas?

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These diagrams have one for the charging circuit.

Turn the key to the RUN position without the engine running.

Check voltage across battery posts.

Move red lead to the voltage regulator B+ terminal. Should have the same voltage.

If not that is what you need to fix.

Regulators also need to see battery voltage to turn them on so to speak before they can regulate the charge current.

Let us know what you find.

 

Garry

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Posted (edited)

Hey Gary, I got 12.56 at the battery and 12.16 at the B+ regulator terminal. Battery was full on a tender and I unplugged it from that a few hours ago so it should be "settled". I do have a 90's era 520H and 416H with Onan motors....could I test with one of those regulators you think, or different versions? The new regulator I bought was not OEM, maybe that's the issue....  ;-) If it were bad though, wouldn't it read "0" volts?

 

So in the diagram, it looks like the red from the switch goes directly to the battery but, it's actually in a wire loom paired with the red lead from the battery....connected to the starter. I'm guessing my theory was right that even though it's not on the battery post (but coming from 30amp fuse), it still sees the battery being on the same starter post, through the red power cable from battery to starter.

Edited by echoffmann

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The .4 volt loss between the battery and the regulator is a bit of a concern but you have many connections between the two. If each one looses a bit to resistance it could be normal. That is why we always preach clean tight connections. There are a few connections inside the ignition switch also but the only way to get past them is to replace the switch.

Doing the test with the engine not running just verifies the regulator to battery path for the charge current to get to the battery. Once the engine is running you don't know the source of the voltage - is it from the charging system or the battery?

If the voltage increases to a value higher than the battery voltage at the time we have to assume it's coming from the charging system. Then the regulator needs to limit the charge current so the voltage does not exceed the 14.4 volts the battery can withstand. That is why you will not see 0 volts. The minimum should be no less than battery voltage.

Most Onan regulators Wheel Horse used are 20 amp so using it to test should work on the Kohler 15 amp system which it likely has. The body of the regulator needs to be grounded and since they are so small they need to be cooled so don't run it too long. Make all your test connections with the engine not running.

 

Garry

 

 

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5b603a2ae303a_1electrical.jpg.76206fd68930ada25010ccd4b4d81495.jpg

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Posted (edited)

Well I'm even more stumped. I can take the new regulator and put it on my 416H....charges to 14v, on the 268H seems to do nothing. The old regulator from the 416H charges to 14v on that tractor, does nothing on the 268H. So both regulators work fine it seems. There is no ground wiring going to the regulator body on the 268H and is bolted to the plastic shroud. I thought i grounded to the carburetor solenoid as the purple wire pairs with a red wire at a connection, but I believe that energizes the solenoid to open it, not a ground.

 

I hate to take it in but man, it has me stumped and nothing is molested, all stock (unlike the 520 which has a few work arounds in the wiring)! I replaced all the fuses, checked the fuse block and all is good.... 

 

268H_elec_manual.pdf

 

 

 

 

connector.jpg

starter.jpg

regulator.jpg

all.jpg

Edited by echoffmann

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In the regulator photo there is a black wire cable-tied to the purple. Can you tell where it goes? Wondering if there is an eye terminal on the end of it that should be under one of the regulator mounting screws. Black is often used for ground wires.

With the key OFF hook a test light or voltmeter to the battery + post. Touch the other lead to the body of the regulator. If you get a light or reading the body of the regulator is already grounded.

If it does not light add a ground wire to one of the regulator mounting screws and see it it charges.

 

They are using that purple to power the carb solenoid with the key in the RUN position.

To power the carb solenoid in the START position they use the motor starter solenoid circuit because the purple is not powered when starting.

Both circuits have a diode so one circuit can not backfeed the other.

The carb solenoid is powered in the RUN position allowing the motor to run so we have to assume this part of the wiring is all good.

 

When you check a fuse you are probing a hole in the end of the fuse? No need to remove the fuse to check but you need to probe boths sides of the fuse to check it's condition. If there is power on one side only the fuse is blown.

 

You say your meter does not measure DC voltage. Is it possible you are measuring voltage with the wrong meter setting for the type of voltage present?

 

Garry

 

 

 

 

 

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If this kohler has the plastic shroud then you need a ground wire from your regulator mounting screw to the block

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Posted (edited)

Gary and Wildman thank you! I did the light test like Gary said and no light from battery + to regulator body. Added a ground wire like you both stated and 13v at idle and 14.3v at high RPM! Now.......why is the idiot light still on?!?!  :-)  My older horses have nice gauges where I can see the voltage, now I'll constantly wonder why it's still on. At least I know for now, it's charging again.

 

Gary, that black wire tied to the purple is a cable to an external RPM gauge I have, it just wraps around one of the plug wires for a pulse.

Edited by echoffmann

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These modules often fail. All you can do is make sure the connections are clean, tight and the ground wire is in place. The detail wiring file earlier posted shows how it is wired. You could add a voltmeter much cheaper than replacing the module. Click on the picture and again on the page that comes up to enlarge.

Garry

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