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WildmanC120

K301. Ran well until I touched it....

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WildmanC120

OK so...I picked up my C-120 a week ago.  It ran well but needed some things.  The head was leaking, fuel tank leaking and line was junk etc.  So today I set out to remedy these issues.

 

I pulled the head and found that there were 2 gaskets on there.  Not sure why but there was.  I removed them, cleaned everything up and decked my head until the surface was clean and straight.  I bought a new OEM kohler gasket and sprayed it with copper cote and installed it and the head.  I used a little never seize on my head bolts and torqued to 30ft lbs.   This set for about 2 hours while I installed a new tank, line, shut off and filter. 

 

When I started the tractor it started right up like normal then stalled cause no fuel in line.  Cranked for a second then started right back up again and ran normal.  I ran it at part throttle for a few minutes with no issue until the started to die then stalled.  Had to use choke to get her going again and now it has turned into a choke position battle to keep her running.  I took the air cleaner off and and when she goes to die cover carb with my hand for a second and then she will run well with no choke for a second then go back to popping and wanting to die. 

 

I pulled the plug and checked my compression to see if there might be an issue but I'm getting 120lbs on my gauge so do not believe there is an issue with the head install. 

 

I think I might have got some dirt in the new line while installing it and it got sucked into the carb.  What do you think??? 

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WildmanC120

I also thought that maybe I was not getting enough fuel so I removed the line from the carb and placed it in a bottle and the pump is pumping a sufficient amount of fuel.  Put the line back on the carb and removed the bowl and fuel was pumping into the carb.   

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MarkS

Sounds like some gunk might have broke loose, and is blocking something up inside the carb. Might be worth giving it a good cleaning.

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WildmanC120
6 minutes ago, MarkS said:

Sounds like some gunk might have broke loose, and is blocking something up inside the carb. Might be worth giving it a good cleaning.

 

That's what I was thinking.  Just wanted to make sure I covered all my bases before tearing the carb apart.  

 

Also, what screw on the carb is what? What is the stock settings for them? 

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MarkS

The picture should be right for your carb. Someone else might have to help with the stock adjustment settings. What I always do is tighten the screws, counting the number of turns until it is all the way in. When you are re-installing them, go all the way in, and back them out the same number. This will only work if you know the engine was running with the current setup. 

Capture.PNG

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953 nut

Agree the problem is trash in the carb. Be sure to re-torque the head after it has come to normal operating temperature.

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WildmanC120
25 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

Agree the problem is trash in the carb. Be sure to re-torque the head after it has come to normal operating temperature.

 

I just pulled the carb off and all apart.  Everything looks good inside and was clean.  I cleaned it anyways and just reinstalled it.  Ill give it a test run tomorrow. 

 

 

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SPINJIM

Dirty screen on the shut-off valve inside the gas tank?  Worth a look and clean out of the tank.  I've had to replace shutoff valves a few times.

    Good luck,    Jim

    

Edited by SPINJIM
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Sarge

Every time you pull a rubber fuel line off a carb fitting, pump, tank or whatever you risk introducing very small particles of rubber. If that unit has ever had ethanol laced fuel in it there is a likely chance the internal part of the line has rotted - ethanol pulls the carbon out of the line and makes a nice granular substance that loves to plug up fuel pumps, float needles, and jets. You spent the time to do things right - but replacing the fuel line is critical to finishing the job. I've switched all mine over to the same line used by ATV/motorcycle OEM's that will not do this, nor does it harden like any rubber-based line from Parts Unlimited, haven't had a problem since.

 

Sarge

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Achto
17 hours ago, WildmanC120 said:

I bought a new OEM kohler gasket and sprayed it with copper cote

 

Just for future reference, this is not a necessary step. OEM head gaskets should be installed dry. 

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WildmanC120
1 minute ago, Achto said:

 

Just for future reference, this is not a necessary step. OEM head gaskets should be installed dry. 

Is sealer going to hurt anything though? 

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Achto
1 minute ago, WildmanC120 said:

Is sealer going to hurt anything though? 

 

It will make it harder the next time that you or some one else has to pull the head - more clean up time. I don't believe that it has any thing to do with your running issue.

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WildmanC120

Here is a quick video I just took of my running issue.  

 

WH C-120 Running Issue

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Achto

Maybe I'm just not seeing it in the video, but do you have a condenser on the coil?

Edited by Achto

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WildmanC120
38 minutes ago, Achto said:

Maybe I'm just not seeing it in the video, but do you have a condenser on the coil?

 

Yes it is on the other side. 

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WildmanC120

Would the coil cause this issue you think?  I also installed that Accel super coil while tractor was apart. No reason really basically just cause it looks cool and was sitting around. 

 

I've had that carb apart twice and it's spotless.  I do know a lot of times electrical will mask themselves as fuel issues. 

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pfrederi

Is it an internally resisted coil or does it need a ballast resistor.  Kohler coils are internally resisted.

 

Edit;  if it requires a ballast resistor i would lose it.  Ballast resisters are an accident waiting to happen....Dodge M-880 series trucks had them and they were a constant problem.

Edited by pfrederi
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WildmanC120
13 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Is it an internally resisted coil or does it need a ballast resistor.  Kohler coils are internally resisted.

 

Edit;  if it requires a ballast resistor i would lose it.  Ballast resisters are an accident waiting to happen....Dodge M-880 series trucks had them and they were a constant problem.

So this is the coil I have. Accel Super Stock Coil 8140

 

Looks like the primary resistance is 1.4 ohm when the ones for Kohler are around 3ohm on primary.  I cannot tell if it needs a ballast resistor or not though.  

 

I'll try swapping the old coil back on and trying it. 

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pfrederi

The C141 in the shop (only one up in the shop with a coil) has 4.5 ohms on the primary.  Checked the 6 volt coil on my Case VAC 1.4 ohms. as a 6 volt system it is not internally resisted.  I think yours needs a ballast resistor.  If you used it very long at all you need to check you points the may need a quick file and regap as a low resistance coil can burn points....

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WildmanC120
5 hours ago, pfrederi said:

The C141 in the shop (only one up in the shop with a coil) has 4.5 ohms on the primary.  Checked the 6 volt coil on my Case VAC 1.4 ohms. as a 6 volt system it is not internally resisted.  I think yours needs a ballast resistor.  If you used it very long at all you need to check you points the may need a quick file and regap as a low resistance coil can burn points....

I went to the auto parts store and found a coil.  It is internally resisted and 3.2ohm on the primary.  I am still in the same situation as I was before.  

 

Carb is clean and I have good sparc.  It will sit there and idle all day no choke and even a little above idle.  Once you try and rev it then you basically need full choke to keep it running.  I might try a fuel pump and see. Maybe that pump is junk and just happened to die or whatever I did angered it haha. 

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953 nut

 

8 hours ago, WildmanC120 said:

I might try a fuel pump and see.

If it runs fine at idle for an extended period you have an adequate fuel supply from the fuel pump. Have you adjusted the Main Fuel Needle to provide more fuel?

Capture.PNG.d1ec19c91fa9a659689abfc861774fa8.PNG

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RandyLittrell

The accel coil is not internally resisted, you need  a stock coil. A Bosch coil for a volkswagon works as well too, but you don't need it. Stock works just fine. When I have fuel issues, I pull the tank and carb, put new line and clean everything really well before I put it back together. I funnel with a screen in it will help keep crap out of the tank too. These rigs are sensitive to any dirt because of the gravity feed or low pressure feed. 

 

 

 

 

Randy

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WildmanC120

I was able to get it running well again.  Decided to just replace the carb and fuel pump.  The old pump was leaking a little and I'm sure was in need of a rebuild.  I saved the old pump and carb and will go threw them at a later date. A little tuning and we will be good to go.  Thanks for the help.

 

C-120 Running Again

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