Jump to content
MN_REV-800

520Lxi won't start

Recommended Posts

MN_REV-800

I'm a new member.  My 82 year old dad couldn't get is 1999 520Lxi to start and decided to get a new John Deere.  He gave me his 520Lxi to sell.  It is in very good condition and ran fine until it stopped and just won't start.  It would intermittently not want to start, but by pushing extra hard parking it would start.  That trick stopped working for him.  I picked up the tractor a couple of days ago.  After a 20 mile trailer ride and sitting in my garage for a few hours, I tried to start it.  Nothing at first, then I pushed extra hard on the parking brake.  It fired right up and ran great.  The next morning did the same thing fired right up and ran great.  I drove it out onto my driveway and sprayed off the engine with the pressure washer 'kind of' avoiding the electrical components.  When I tried to start it to put it back into the garage it was totally dead.  Since then here's what've tried.

 - Seat safety switch was already bypassed.  Checked the wire to make sure they were securely connected.  They were.

 - Put jumper wire in connector for parking brake switch 

 - Tested Parking Brake Switch with multimeter.  The switch worked so I hooked it back up.

 - Disconnected all wiring harness connectors in the engine compartment and blew out moisture and dirt (from my pressure washing)

 - Tested Ignition Switch - Verified continuity between B terminal and I, R, L, S terminals based on key position - Worked properly.

 - Discovered Starter Solenoid ground nut was completely missing.  Ground wire just loosing sitting on ground stud (see picture).  Added washer, lock washer and nut.  - No Change! Still won't do a thing.

 - Battery voltage at the terminals 12.4V

 

I'm not sure what to try next.  I feel like I'm just randomly trying things.  I need help doing things in a logical method.

 

Also, I'm curious what the tractor and snow blower would be worth once I get it running.

 

Thanks!

 

Wade

 

 

 

IMG_3555.JPG

IMG_5177.JPG

IMG_7319 2.JPG

IMG_4656.JPG

IMG_5154.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
gwest_ca

Welcome to the forum.

This set of diagrams should help. Each circuit has it's own diagram.

Garry

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
MN_REV-800

I found the problem(s).  I think that the original starting problem my dad was having was due to the starter ground lug nut and washer falling off.  As part of tracing the circuits, I took the relays off to test them.  A couple terminals of the relays were 'tarnished' so I cleaned them with some emery cloth.  Then I blew out the relay sockets with the air compressor.  There was quite of bit of dust and debris that came out.  I think when cleaning the tractor and I blew out the area between the dash and radiator I blew this debris into the relay sockets.  At any rate, I plugged the relays back in and it fired right up and ran great.

  • Like 1
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WVHillbilly520H

IMHO, you should keep that Lxi the last of a dead breed, but since you asked for a fair market value just from the pics and it being a liquid cooled Kawasaki powered xi series with 2 stage blower and not knowing the hours $1500-2 would be guess but others might say less, I sold a 1200hr 520xi package with 48" deck snow plow 42" single stage thrower and rear clevis hitch for $2500 last year, Jeff.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
DennisThornton

Very nice machine and in great shape! 

$2000 or so. 

Only possible issue is some had cam gear issues.  A search here should give more info. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Kurt-NEPA

Nice tractor - well worth the effort to get it fixed up.  I  think the 5xi tractor is one of the finest ever built.  Good to hear you got it running.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Kurt-NEPA

Just had thought. You said that if your dad pushed real hard on the brake pedal it would start up.   If that happens again....

 

There is a micro switch on the parking brake linkage that won't allow the tractor to start unless the brake pedal is pushed.  If the brake pedal is adjusted too tight that switch may not activate unless you push really hard.  You could try backing off on the brake adjustment, its located on the rear of the tractor, on the right side.  Looks like a thread rod with a spring and Ny-lock nut on it.  Just loosen it a bit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • Berco
      By Berco
      Hello all. My battery in my 520LXI was going out, the lights would come on but the engine would not turn over. I put a 1.5 amp truckle charger on the battery when i left for a 4 days trip. I come back and the same. I also noticed i left the key in the run position (the hour meter did not run). I swap out batteries and now the mower is completely dead. When i turn the key - nothing. I verify the battery it good (13.04v), negative is connected to the engine block, voltage is good on the solenoid side of the starter. I out the key to run and try to jump to see if i can start and nothing. Not even a spark. I have used this mover for years and has 500 hours. Could the ignition switch or brake switch be bad? The seat switch is jumped.What else could cause my mower to be dead? Thank you in advance.
    • cmorrow
      By cmorrow
      Hi all,
       
      Quick question that I am hoping some of the members of this forum could help me with.
       
      I am a fairly new owner of a 520LXI. I purchased it with the dozer blade, part 79355, over the summer. Last night I decided to install the blade since they are calling for a surprising amount of snow in our area this weekend, and I am excited to try it out! However, during the last step of installation I realized that my blade was missing either of the lift links for my tractor. In this case I believe I would have wanted to use the slotted link to avoid down pressure with snow removal.

      In the manual, this looks like a pretty simple part to fab up, and it just attaches with 2 3/8x3/4" clevis pins to the attachment lift plate under the tractor. If you have this setup, would you mind giving me some dimensions of the slotted link? Specifically, overall length, location of the end hole and start/stop of the slot? 
       
      There seems to be a ton of dimensions for the older tractor/blade links, but I was unsuccessful in searching this forum for details on the newer style. 

      If I don't have this link, it looks like I could simply loop a small piece of chain over the lifting bar for the mower deck and attach it to the blade as well - does anyone see an issue with that? 
       
      Thanks a ton for any help!

       
×
×
  • Create New...