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TC10284

1989 414-8 switch wiring

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Picked up a 1989 (3114k804) 414-8. The guy told me he picked it up with another tractor and to get it to turn over, he had to turn the key to run, connect a booster positive terminal to the solenoid starter side, and the negative grounded to the chassis. When he grounded to the chassis, it turned over. He also said it needs a fuel pump, but I haven't got that far yet in testing it. 

 

Obviously I don't want the wiring like this. I undid what looked like a bunch of mess of wiring and am trying to get everything back to defaults. I think I have it almost there, however I have a few wires that I need to make sure of where they connect to on the switch. 

 

It looks like I have another red cable, and two tan cables. I've looked over the demystification guide for my year model. 

Do the red cables go together and the tan cables go together? 

What type of metal connector do I need to insert into the black plastic piece? 

Lastly, there is a red and black cable with white plastic end that fit perfectly on the solenoid. Is that the proper location? I didn't see anywhere else they would reach or go to.  

 

Here are the before pics:

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Here's the after pics:

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Here are the wires I need to figure out what go where:

 

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Click on the pictures

The terminal on the end of the tan wire appears to have had 2 wires going into it. That is a common practise although the diagrams may show the same connection at a different location. It is very hard to make 2 wires join in one terminal unless you have a terminal designed for a larger gauge of wire and they are hard to find. I usually join the wires together back from the end of the one wire with solder and shrink sleeves. Then just one wire goes into the connector terminal.

 

The terminals are Packard 56 style. The tab on the back of the terminal on the tan wire is what holds it into the black connector. Once they have been removed you need to bend the tab back up a bit so it will lock into the black connector.

There is a special tool to remove a terminal from the black connector but the wire of a jumbo paper clip or a 1/8" or smaller cotter pin about 1-1/2" long opened up will work. The tool is placed into the connector just like the male spade terminal but on the other side of the female terminal. Push the tool in aiming for the tab while holding the wire on the other side and leave the tool in there. Once the tool is in and the tab is collapsed pull the wire out of the connector. Once you do one the rest are easy.

The wires going to the solenoid show as being black and purple. Black is usually reserved for ground circuits but not always.

This tractor model used a low oil switch and relay to interrupt the starter circuit if the oil was low. That may have been altered if a no-starter problem was the original reason for the wiring being altered.

If you need to remove the low oil switch from the engine there are special instructions for removal so the switch is not damaged. Ask for them.

 

Your 5th photo is a good example of what to avoid with wiring. Where the wires come through the hole with the steering shaft the sharp edge on the sheet metal and the steering shaft constantly turning are both potential causes for shorts. The insulation wears away exposing the wire to the chassis grounds resulting in a blown fuse. In a small space like that multiple layers of tape around the wires may be the only option. The tape can take the wear before it gets to the wires.

If in doubt ask more questions.

 

Garry

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Also, the double black wire connector by the ignition switch plugs onto the open terminal on the ignition switch.

I just fixed up the wiring on my 312 and it had the same connector, it is just a ground so the engine shuts down when the key is turned off.

 

 

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1 hour ago, cleat said:

Also, the double black wire connector by the ignition switch plugs onto the open terminal on the ignition switch.

I just fixed up the wiring on my 312 and it had the same connector, it is just a ground so the engine shuts down when the key is turned off.

 

 

Yeah, I disconnected that one to access stuff a little easier. 

 

So I guess what I need to do is get some packard 56 terminals and join up the two red wires using solder and heat shrink, and do the same for the tan wires. Then find the right spot on the black connector to plug them in to.  

 

As for the solenoid, I meant the two wires that are supposed to come off of it instead of going to it. 

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Yes, I put some new packard 56 connectors on my 520's and they fixed up poor connection issues I was having.

 

Looks like you know where the red goes, just install the tan into the open top slot and you should be good to go.

 

Good to get rid of all those bare wires.

 

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Here's a picture of the solenoid connectors I was referring to above. 

 

The only place I could find for the black and red(?) cables with white connector was right there. The cables reached it like they were supposed to go on there. 

 

C7dlCQJ.jpg

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Can anyone tell me if those two black and red (orange?) cables on the bottom of the solenoid are correct? 

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The black is likely correct but if it were me working on this I would remove some tape and /or open the harness up to see where it goes. It should go to a chassis ground.

 

The other wire should be purple according to your detailed wiring diagram. Since it isn't you need to see where it goes. If it goes to the other low oil relay in your photo it is likely correct. It is not purple there either so either the diagram is wrong or mother nature has changed the color of the insulation.

 

The black wire at the low oil relay is likely another chassis ground and the wire with it shows as dark blue in the diagram.

The pair of wires at the other end of the low oil relay show as purple and light blue in the diagram.

 

What is the model number and serial number of this tractor? There was a shortage of parts during production so a substitute relay was used. Click on the pictures to open another page on the subject.

This is for the same relay when it was used much earlier as an ignition kill relay. The info may help

An understanding of how a relay works and what relay terminal goes to what is going to help here. Are you familiar with that? If not we will walk you through it.

 

Open the harness up to see where the wires go. Tape is easily replaced and the wires can be put back into the split loom after you figure it out.

I often tie strings around a bundle of wires as I remove the tape or open a split loom. That allows you to trace the wires and maintains the bundle so you know what wires get taped again after the repair is completed.

 

Garry

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