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mpoore

L-105 H60 Governor Help Needed

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mpoore

I need some help with the governor linkage on a Techumseh H60 in a Lawn Ranger L-105. I bought a L-105 that had the governor bypassed so that the throttle was directly connected to the carb. The engine manual shows numerous governor setups of which the one below was the closest (muffler is obviously different). The problem is that the linkage is missing. It should not be hard to make a linkage, but I have to assume the correct length is important.

 

Could anyone confirm the image below is the correct setup and tell me the length of the linkage? A bonus would be knowing the type of spring used between the carb and the throttle cable lever. Short of the exact info, is there a way to ballpark these? For instance, would the linkage be the length from the governor fully engaged and the throttle fully closed? Lastly, will any steel rod of the correct diameter work or do I need spring steel?

 

image.png.d81de83174b0f9245e3c79ada5b6ebfb.png

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Wild Bill in VA

OK this ain't gonna be easy but first off the small linkage arm that is shown on top of the muffler that has a 5/16 hex head bolt with screw driver slot is also adjustable. So you can have some wiggle room for mistakes.

Do you know if the plastic governor drive gear is still in one piece ? They have a habit of breaking when the throttle cable is hooked directly up to the carburetor throttle shaft.  You will have to pull the side cover off to find this out. There  also several hole in the throttle arm to hook the link up to. I will take a look during the day light to see if I can get a length on the rod for you.

Wild Bill in Richmond, VA

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wallfish

Exact length of the rod is not critical because there is adjustment there. If you have an old throttle or choke cable around, use that wire to make one. Best to size it in the full open positions instead of closed. Nevermind, looks like Bill will fix you up with a measurement

The Spring and the tension from it is more critical as that needs to counteract the the pressure from the governor arm, which is always trying to close the butterfly on the carb. In the past, I've just bought a bunch of small springs that seem to close to the size and different tensions and try them until one works.  Probably not the best way but works for me. They're cheap enough.

 

If the engine runs you can test that gov gear by holding the gov arm as you increase RPMs. You should feel it pushing towards the carb if it's working. Just be careful the carb doesn't open to full throttle so use your third hand if necessary.

 

I'll see if I have a spring. have a couple of old h70s out there from snowblowers. spring tension should be about the same, I think.

Edited by wallfish

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mpoore

Thank you both for pitching in to help. The governor is internally working correctly. I am not sure the previous owner ever got it running, but I did with a new carb. It idles great and revs with a quick flick of the throttle. I am being careful, of course, until I can get it back together correctly. Interestingly, the L-105 had a replacement H60 installed and came with the original that had a damaged piston, broken rings, and gouged cylinder. The crank and rod are fine. Think there is a relationship between the governor setup and the original engine?

 

If you can tell me the spring diameter/length/coil count that would be incredibly helpful.

 

Writing this post has helped me think it through. If the range of movement is the same for the throttle and governor (not sure if it is), then the linkage length is rather obvious. Either way, knowing the length of an original would eliminate guesswork. Great idea on using old throttle cable.

 

The L-105/l-155 has such a great shape. This one in particular has just the right amount of rust to make it look old, but not enough that it is in danger of disintegrating. In fact, I think it would look worse restored. I plan to get it fully functional and appreciate it as is. I'm starting to sound like the pickers on History.

 

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wallfish

 

7 hours ago, mpoore said:

Think there is a relationship between the governor setup and the original engine?

Unfortunately I don't have any more H55s or H60s around for measurements.

If the original engine has the link and spring, use them.

 

The governor arm moves a little more distance than the carb butterfly does. This ensures it will close when set properly.

There's a Techumseh manual in the files section which will help with setting it.

The throttle/choke wire is a little bit smaller guage wire than the original links are but it works. I've also used those metal rods that are used to hold up fiberglass insulation between the joists and there just about perfect size and strength. 

 And believe it or not, I've used originals too!

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-16-in-Insulation-Support-100-Qty-IS16-R100/100375163?keyword=fiberglass+insulation+support+rod&semanticToken=21240+++>++++st%3A{fiberglass+insulation+support+rod}%3Ast++cn%3A{0%3A0}++rod+{product}support+{productName_nostem}++fiberglass+insulation+{rest}++dln%3A{542332}

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mpoore

The original engine was missing the spring and linkage, which is why I pondered the relationship between the engine failure and the bypassed governor.

 

That is a great lead idea to use insulation support wire. The description notes that it is spring wire.

 

Once I get something that works, I'll post the details.

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pfrederi

From the original engine on my L107.  The rod is 3-7/8"

IMG_0279.JPG

IMG_0280.JPG

IMG_0283.JPG

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