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McGrew

Advice Needed on 6 Speed Transaxle

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WHX??
2 hours ago, stevasaurus said:

those axles do not look that bad

I agree and think they would be ok with new bearings. Check the side play when you get new bearings. BTW we have a member/vendor who has the complete bearing sets & gasket with or without the 1533's. Let us know if Denny does not have the pinion carriers as you may be able to find a donor tranny.

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McGrew

WHX20, Denny does not have the pinion carriers.  I trial fitted the axles into the new hubs this evening, and the fit was not bad.  I will most likely use them after a little cleaning and polishing.  With regard to end play, what is the spec, and I assume you can use shims to tighten up the end play?  And the 1533 bearings are in great shape.  I see no need to replace them.   Thanks for the input!

Edited by McGrew
More info

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McGrew

I have a question...  Will the differential from a 312-8 fit in my 5073?  The seller claims it is for 1.125” axles.   The unit I found appears to be the 8 pinion unit, as it is held together with 4 bolts.  IF it fits, will I be giving up the limited slip feature of my current differential?  Thanks for bearing with me and all the questions!

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pfrederi

See this TSB.  Many 10 pinions were replaced by 8 pinion when the 10s failed.

 

You need to look at your opinion gear it may have to be replaced if it the one piece unit.

 

 

 

image.png.cce4913024d074e8b26f6bdfd80ee839.png

Edited by pfrederi

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WHX??
13 hours ago, McGrew said:

WHX20, Denny does not have the pinion carriers

Try putting an ad in wanted classifieds. Also try A-Z tractors in the vendors section.

 

13 hours ago, McGrew said:

With regard to end play, what is the spec,

Not quite sure what the spec would be. Since we are not flying these things at 33,000 feet I just go by gut feeling. :)

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ebinmaine
1 minute ago, WHX20 said:

Try putting an ad in wanted classifieds. Also try A-Z tractors in the vendors section.

 

Not quite sure what the spec would be. Since we are not flying these things at 33,000 feet I just go by gut feeling. :)

I'll put a second vote in for both of those answers. Lincoln at A - Z tractors. Good guy.

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stevasaurus

The answer to the limited slip question is...yes, the 8 pinion differential does not have the limited slip function that the 10 pinion does.  :)  Also, no shims, you will be fine with just changing out the outer bearings and all the seals.

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McGrew

Thanks for the input everyone!  WHX20, I believe I misunderstood what you meant when you said to check the side play after installing new bearings.  I thought you meant end play (axial movement) vs. radial movement.   Since the axle support bearings would have no effect on end play, that was my mistake.  I will definitely check it out once I have the bearings.   pfrederi,  I am not certain, but have a bad feeling my pinion is one piece...  I will check it out when I get home.  I will let you know what I find...   Eric, I will definitely contact Lincoln at A-Z.  I have got to get this thing running!   I chucked up the axles in the lathe this morning and did some light polishing.  They cleaned up better than I expected, and will most likely use them.  Of course that will be decided after testing them in a new set of bearings.    Thanks again!  

 

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McGrew

WHX20, I checked my pinion gear, and as suspected it is one piece...  So if I decide to go with the 8 pinion diff, I need the differential and the 2 piece pinion...  Does anyone out there have an 8 pinion set they would sell?  Will be posting want ads on Facebook soon, and contacting A-Z to see what they have.  I am also following a lead from an EBay vendor who thinks he may have the 10 pinion carriers.  Thanks for all the leads!

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stevasaurus

@McGrew  just so you know...the carriers in all of the 10 pinion differentials are the same.  :)

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McGrew

Thank you Steve.  Any information helps at this point!  I am in the process of finding all the bearings and seals.  I plan to replace every bearing and seal with the exception of the 1533's.   I would like to be able get  everything  from a single source.  Motion Industries is only 30 miles from me, but some of their prices are double what I can get the same (different manufacturer?) part for from Grainger.   @WHX20 mentioned someone on this site (a vendor?) sells complete bearing and seal kits.  I looked at the vendor page, but it is not obvious which vendor this would be.  Can someone point me in the right direction?  Thanks!

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McGrew

I warned you in one of my early posts the questions would be coming!  I don't want to make a pest of myself, but a couple of things I found in the rebuilding of this 5073 has made me scratch my  head...   I pressed out the first axle bearing a short while ago.  What I found was the shoulder inside the housing is 1.5" deep.  The bearing is only 1" long, and the seal is only 1/8" thick.  The bearing I pressed out was 3/8" shy of even touching the shoulder.   Was my case machined wrong, or was it designed at one point for a longer 1.375" bearing?  If I could find two of the longer bearings, I would have better support for the  axle, and would be using a virgin part that has never had a bearing on it  Thoughts?   And my next question is about venting... Not me, the transaxle!  I see no visible  means of venting for this unit.  When i was cleaning up the dipstick, (yes, Steve, you were right, it does have a dipstick), I found a hole in the pipe plug that holds the dipstick that has been plugged with  what looks like a piece of copper or brass?    Please see the attached pics.  Was this done at the factory?  Should I reopen that hole?  Thanks again for all the advice! 

IMG_0749.jpg

IMG_0751.jpg

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pfrederi

That is nodular brass (tightly packed ball like things).  Lets air pressure  equalize but keeps out  the dirt and water.

 

The standard axle end bearings work just fine if they are not damaged by contamination.  I suppose you could put in longer ones but would it be worth it??? I don't think so.   You might want tor use the additional space to double up the axle seal

 

Bearing seal sets here:   https://www.wheelhorseman1000.com/

Edited by pfrederi

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McGrew

Thank you!  So that is the breather!  I contacted wheelhoreman regarding his kits.  Thanks for the information.  

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stevasaurus

We might have found you maybe 1 of the carriers this weekend...maybe 2.  @Shynon  @prondzy  :)

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McGrew

Steve, Excellent!  They seem to be coming out of the woodwork now!  I already told A-Z tractor parts I would take the set he has, and just in the last 30 minutes got a PM offering a complete 10 pinion diff...  Its good to know they are still out there.  Thanks for your help.  I will post here if either of the two offers I have go South...

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stevasaurus

Take the carriers from A-Z and rebuild the 10 pinion transmission.  Mush cheaper and easier now.  :)

 

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McGrew

Ok, there are no stupid questions, right?   I was cleaning up  parts of my transaxle in preparation for new bearings, seals and paint..  The brake drum has a taper across the face of the friction surface.   It measures almost 4" in diameter on one side, and .050" less on the other...  I am assuming this is not correct?  I cannot imagine why it would be made this way, but...   Assuming it should be "square", can I just machine off the .050" off the high side?    Also, what is the original thickness of the brake lining material?  Mine is .200" thick, but two of the rivets are hitting the brake drum.  I thought about drilling out the rivets, and gluing it on as one of the vendors suggests for his new linings.  The problem is , this lining is caked with 90W from the trans, as that seal was leaking...   I cleaned it with brake cleaner, and have it soaking in acetone, but may have to buy a new lining....  

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ebinmaine

There are people that will tell you you can use a brake liner after it's been soaked in oil but I'm not really in that habit. Friction material stops things. Oil does not.

It may very well be perfectly fine and I'm not at all trying to downtrodden on anybody. Just not my habit. Get a hold of Bob Maynard on the vendor section and get a new lining.

IMHO.

 

As for the diameter and the differences in sizing on your brake drum, somebody else will be along with a better answer than I could give you I'm sure.

:D

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pfrederi

It not like you are tryng to stop going 60 mph in heavy traffic.   I have never measured my brake drums neither have they ever caused me to run into any walls. New lining wouldn't hurt.  Sometimes we can overthink things. 

Edited by pfrederi
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McGrew

Thanks for the responses!  Paul, I do tend to over-think things, but that is a side effect of my job...  I would not have measured this brake drum, except that  taper was very obvious to me.  In a former life, I spent all my time in a machine shop, and .050" across a 1.5" wide  drum is HUGE to me...  Thanks again for the responses.  I am going to buy a new lining and machine the drum face square...  

 

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stevasaurus

If you have a lathe...why not true up the drum.  :occasion-xmas:  I don't have a lathe...  :(

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McGrew

Steve,  That is precisely my plan.  I have 3 lathes in my shop, and a small wood lathe at home.  I trued an 18” diameter aluminum wheel on one of the lathes at work.  Most folks would not believe how eccentric some castings are...  

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ebinmaine
2 hours ago, McGrew said:

Most folks would not believe how eccentric some castings are...  

I've been told MY castings are eccentric...

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tntatro
On 7/13/2018 at 10:00 PM, McGrew said:

in the last 30 minutes got a PM offering a complete 10 pinion diff

Hi, I'm curious if you took the offer for the 10 pinion differential, I also want one. They've been elusive for me so far. Bought a couple off eBay and the seller never sent them and then refunded me the money. Had another guy say he'd check out a tractor he's parting out but never got back to me and no response to my follow up. 

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