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McGrew

Advice Needed on 6 Speed Transaxle

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gwest_ca

Think I would add a wire guide to the front if you can. Keep all of the belt in the pulley groove.

Belts have the uncanny ability to climb out of their groove looking for a larger diameter to run on and it looks like it is the top edge of the inside flange. A slight misalignment likely has the loose belt against the rear flange and it climbs it because it is loose.

 

Garry

 

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McGrew

Paul, I checked the alignment of the pulleys.  I tried my best to use my hi tech laser setup, but there was too many obstructions in the way to get it lined up.  So, I used my low tech masons line...  Bottom line is the pulleys are as in alignment.  I don’t see how I could make them any better.  The idler pulley is also in line, and does not deflect when pushing in the clutch. I did buy an 81 inch belt, but have not tried it.  I hate wasting money, and if that belt comes off, there is no way I would return it.  I did try Garry’s suggestion and added two more guides at 2 o’clock and 5 o’clock.  What you see is a temporary setup to see if it solves the problem.  If it works, those stacks of washers will be replaced by spacers I will machine.  There is about 3/16” clearance between the belt and the washer stack.  I ran out of time and did not get a chance to test the setup.  I still wonder if the shorter belt is the correct way to go?  Thanks fo all your help!  Danny

C1378B07-DFF4-47EA-A905-4E506FCA7FA2.jpeg

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ebinmaine
8 hours ago, McGrew said:

There is about 3/16” clearance between the belt and the washer stack.  I ran out of time and did not get a chance to test the setup.  I still wonder if the shorter belt is the correct way to go?

Danny 

I've had better luck with tighter tolerance. Around 1/16 I'd say but I'm eyeballing it.

Getting correct belt length can be VERY CHALLENGING.

I've done so on two horses so far. My B has a smaller engine pulley to slow the tractor down and my Honey's 657 has a temporary B & S in it.

I like Garry's idea for extra guides. I'd increase the washer diameter to decrease the gap.

 

 

Curious to see the solution.

 

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McGrew

OK, guys, success at last!:)  The temporary setup with the washers worked fine,  I was not not completely thrilled with the solution.  I feel like it is not addressing the cause, but treating a symptom.   So I tried the belt that is 1” shorter.  I could not get it on!   So I decided to make the best of it, and machined a couple of guides to replace the washer stack.  I installed them this evening, and the belt now stays on the pulley. 

 

I found in my Dad’s notes ( he bought the tractor new),  the notation the main dive belt is 81 7/8” long.  I guess the 5L-820 is as close as I will get.  I also have no idea where Dad got those numbers...  Bottom line is the tractor works as it should, and I am happy!  Thanks again for everyone’s help!  Danny

7CAE125C-ECAF-4C21-8CF0-239648B2E61B.jpeg

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Tankman
On ‎9‎/‎4‎/‎2018 at 4:27 PM, stevasaurus said:

.  Never use any belt dressing on the drive belt.  :)

Why no belt dressing? Been using belt dressing  for sometime.

 

Never a problem until recently, drive belt went off the idler pully. Too much belt dressing? :think:

 

Was due for a new belt anyway. I like the Huskee Kevlar belts and TSC is only a mile away.

Opinion 'bout those Huskee Kevlar belts?

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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, Tankman said:

Why no belt dressing? Been using belt dressing  for sometime.

 

Never a problem until recently, drive belt went off the idler pully. Too much belt dressing? :think:

 

Was due for a new belt anyway. I like the Huskee Kevlar belts and TSC is only a mile away.

Opinion 'bout those Huskee Kevlar belts?

The drive belt of a garden tractor needs to be able to slide through the pulleys when they are disengaged. Belt dressing is made to do exactly the opposite of that.

 

In the distant past I used to sell auto parts for a living and we always told people if you thought you needed belt dressing, you really need a new belt.

 

I have not personally used any of the belts from TSC but I have heard several people do like them.

 

I've used the gates green belts and that was fine. The last two or three I've bought were the blue ones from Lincoln at A - Z. Also good stuff.

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McGrew

I agree with Eric on the belt dressing.  Even though I used the Huskee Kevlar belt from Tractor Supply it really is too early for me to comment on it.  I will say this:  From the early abuse I put it through, it seems to have very minor damage.  It probably jumped off the engine pulley 10 times, and wedged against the engine block.  When this happened, I shut it down quickly.  Even so, James Bond would have been proud of the smoke screen...

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Tankman
1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

The drive belt of a garden tractor needs to be able to slide through the pulleys when they are disengaged. Belt dressing is made to do exactly the opposite of that.

 

Thanks EB. Never thought of belt dressing in that way.

Makes perfect sense. Thanks again!  :text-thankyoublue:

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ebinmaine
38 minutes ago, McGrew said:

smoke screen...

:handgestures-thumbupright:

 

 

9 minutes ago, Tankman said:

 

Thanks EB. Never thought of belt dressing in that way.

Makes perfect sense. Thanks again!  :text-thankyoublue:

You're welcome Tank. That's what we're all here for.

 

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Tankman

EB, I heard and can understand your advice.

What do you think of this video?

 

 

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ebinmaine
16 minutes ago, Tankman said:

EB, I heard and can understand your advice.

What do you think of this video?

 

 

 

it's marketed by green and yellow tractor people. There's no way this stuff works or does anything it's supposed to.

:ROTF:

 

 

 

Okay, okay, I'm kidding.

 

Actually, it probably does exactly everything that they say that it does do and that is why I would not use it.

 

Here is where I stand on belt dressing and why I don't use it.... On ANY belt.

If you are using a clutch type Drive such as on our engine to transmission belts, They MUST slip when disengaged. As previously stated, this stuff is meant to prevent that.

 

On most other situations, the belt is never ever meant to slip. The reason I don't use it in the other situations is that a squealing belt is almost always a symptom of a problem. Could be a pulley out of line. Could be something is just plain dirty. Could be a bearing going bad. Could be the belt itself is getting aged and glazing over. Could be a malfunction in the drive piece or the driven piece.

I'm sure others could point out some other issues. I'd be glad to hear them.

 

I guess I just come from the old school of thinking where when the belt was new it did not squeal. If it starts squealing, there's a reason that it's doing it. Fix the reason. Don't coat the belt.

 

.....  IMHO.... 

 

Signed respectfully, guy in Maine with all kinds of crazy ideas but none of which include belt dressing.

 

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stevasaurus

Never use belt dressing on your drive belt on a Wheel Horse...you will grind your gears to death and ruin your transmission.  Think of it this way...like Eric said...this is not a fan belt---it is your clutch.  Would you ever not want your clutch to slip a little...better have wheelie wheels on the back of your horse.  :occasion-xmas:

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