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McGrew

Advice Needed on 6 Speed Transaxle

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McGrew

Eric, I too have  been accused of being slightly off center, but that is far from the worst thing I.ve been called...  tntatro, I found the pinion carriers I need from one of the vendors on this site, and told them I would take them. i have not finalized that deal, as I am trying to get the bearings and seals from the same vendor.  I had accepted the vendor’s offer on the carriers when several hours later a RS member offered me a complete 10 pinion differential with axles for only a few dollars more...  Since I accepted the first offer, you should send a PM to VinsRJ.  He is the one with the complete 10 pinion rear.  

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tntatro

Okay, thanks. How do I find VinsRJ to pm?

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McGrew

Tntatro,  I’m far from an expert on how this forum works,  but believe you can search his name and find his contact info.  Someone else can probably give you a better answer.  

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tntatro

I just figured it out, thanks.

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ebinmaine
5 hours ago, McGrew said:

Eric, I too have  been accused of being slightly off center, but that is far from the worst thing I.ve been called...

Hehehe....

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McGrew

OK, trans experts, I have a question (big shock,I know!).  The RS vendor I am dealing with is out of stock on the 1542, 1518 and 1526 bearings.  I looked to see what I could find locally, and got a perfect natch for the 1526 (axle bearing).   I found the other two bearings locally, but  the part number B-107 and B-108 both have an “OH” suffix on the part number.  What this means is the bearing has an oil hole.  I’m not sure where the hole is located in the bearing, but assume it is on the end, and not the perimeter.  Should I be concerned about using these bearings?  I am not too concerned about the B-108s, as they are internal to the trans, but the B-107 is the input shaft bearing.  I realize there is an oil seal beside this bearing, and it is well above the oil level in the trans, but am I asking for trouble if I use a bearing with an oil hole?  Thanks again for all the advice!  

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pfrederi

Oil holes are on the bearing surface.  Should not be any issue using them in a tranny.

oh.JPG

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McGrew

Thank you Paul!  I really appreciate the information.  Once I get the bearings and seals, I can start reassembling this thing!  

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McGrew

OK, Gents, progress has been  slow as I am waiting for my bearings, seals, gasket and pinion carriers to arrive.  While waiting, I cleaned  up the brake drum, had the old key ways in the axles welded, and cut new full length key ways.  The brake drum not only had a taper across the face, but it was also eccentric to the shaft.  Not any more!  I had a friend weld the axle keyways (wish I could weld like that), and remachined them.  The new hubs fit nicely, and I match drilled a divot in each axle for the second set screw.  I will be using cone point set screws in the divots, and hoping this eliminates the hubs “walking” on the axles.  

55EB5F80-9C56-43E5-8CB5-5F5F6F043A31.jpeg

D0A54C46-182B-4192-9386-BDCB8B3E31FD.jpeg

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Achto

Awesome job!! :text-bravo:

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ebinmaine
9 minutes ago, Achto said:

Awesome job!! :text-bravo:

Agreed!!!

 

Soooooo.......

I got some axles that need work.....

:D

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953 nut
On 7/16/2018 at 1:28 PM, McGrew said:

Also, what is the original thickness of the brake lining material?  Mine is .200" thick, but two of the rivets are hitting the brake drum.  I thought about drilling out the rivets, and gluing it on as one of the vendors suggests for his new linings.  The problem is , this lining is caked with 90W from the trans, as that seal was leaking...   I cleaned it with brake cleaner, and have it soaking in acetone, but may have to buy a new lining.

 

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WHX??

Really awesome job on those axles guy ....antiseize every thing before you slide that all back together......I know I know ..it's messy stuff but you know how fast that metal will brown weld!

 

The more I look The more I like it McGrew. ..

Edited by WHX20

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McGrew

Thanks guys, I really appreciate the comments and advice!  This was the first fit of the new hubs on the remachined axles.  My pinion carriers arrived today, so I can finally see some of this trans going back together!

1136E3CF-2A03-4CED-A74E-B43F19B58C8E.jpeg

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McGrew

Gents, I was in the process of assembling the differential in this trans, and was haunted by not being sure of the orientation of the unequal length axles with the 10 pinion LS diff...  I watched Stevasaurus’s video twice, but want to be certain...  The longer axle is the RH axle, correct?  I took a pictures, but cannot tell from them which is which...  Thanks!

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stevasaurus

Yes...the right hand end cap and the right hand axle are the longer ones.  The 12" axle is the right hand...the 11 1/4" axle is the left.  :)  Also note (this is wrong in the video) the nuts on the bolts are also on the right side.

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McGrew

Steve, Thank you!  I had it right, but your confirmation makes me feel a lot more comfortable.  

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McGrew

Ok, guys, another question...  I got most of my bearings and seals today, and plan to press them into the cases tomorrow.  I noticed in the picture I took of the left side case, the original  bearings were installed sub-flush by (I’m guessing) .025”.  I can do that again, but wondered if it is necessary?  Am I splitting hairs?  Thanks again for all the advice!  Pic is of the left case as it came apart.

 

 

117FD4FA-2757-4C39-9974-0F9928724C7F.jpeg

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stevasaurus

The through bearings, inside the case, should be flush.

The through bearings, on the out side of the case, should be recessed enough to receive the seals so the seals are flush.

The cap bearings should be flush with the outside of the case.  :occasion-xmas:

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McGrew

Steve,  Thank you again!  I am hoping to get this thing up and running soon!  

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McGrew

Guys, looking for advice...  I have now ruined TWO axle seals, and TWO input shaft seals trying to install them...  Frustrated does not even to begin to describe my mood.  The first set I ruined i did trying to install the seals with an arbor press and an arbor a few thousandths smaller than the OD of the seal.  Two of the seals (one axle and the brake drum) went in without issue.  The other 2 did not slide in and the metal part of the seals became distorted.  I could not straighten them and ordered new ones.

 

The new seals came in, and I thought the arbor press did not give me enough “feel” to safely install the seals.  I decided to use a tiny hammer and the same arbor...  Now I have 4 bent unusable seals.  Please tell me what i am doing wrong!  I have installed many seals in the past, but these are giving me fits!   Any thoughts greatly appreciated.

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stevasaurus

The input seal is # SKF 6105

The axle seal is # SKF 11050

Just making sure you have the correct ones.  I put a piece of tape over the end of the shaft and cover the key way, in case there is a burr or shape edge that could rip the rubber in the seal.  I then take a good punch and a ball peen hammer and start tapping in various places (usually in 3rds)  trying to keep the seal even as it goes in.  I would usually start the seal with just the hammer to get it going and then use the punch. 

   Some like to use a piece of PVC like an arbor to set the seal. 

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WHX??

Don't worry a few of us here have boogered up that input shaft seal..... never had problems with an axle seal tho. Stay away from the arbor press that's a little too much. just be sure to get them started square and use a small hammer and tap them flush.  Lube the outside edge a little to help it go in. Check the edges of the case for burrs or nicks. File/sand as needed and maybe put a slight chamfer on the cases to help get it started. I eventually bought one of these https://www.ebay.com/itm/183182854288?hash=item2aa68c8890 so I can wreck seals a little more professionally! :lol:

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McGrew

Guys, Thanks for the input!   I have the correct seals, and the axle or input shaft isn't even installed yet, so no problem with the viton(?) part of the seal.  There are no burrs in either hole.  The problem is I keep bending the metal support ring.  I think I have wrecked more seals on this tranny than I have in my entire life, and I have installed many seals.  In my defense, these seals are a little smaller and more flimsy than what I am used to.  I am very careful in the installation, but apparently not careful enough!    I will have a new set of seals tomorrow.  I hate to think this way, but maybe should have ordered two of each...   

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pfrederi

If there is no shaft installed i use WHX20 method/tool.  Usually the shaft is in place.  Then I have a collection of washers that are a close fit to the various shafts.  For short shafts I push the seal  down the shaft till it gets to the case then the washer and then use a deep well socket to tap it into place.  For longer shafts i use a washer and a piece of PVC pipe

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