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bo dawg

C-175 PTO issue

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bo dawg

Heres some pics of what my plate looks like on the PTO. I think maybe is the reason why I cant mow grass very well with out the slowing down of the blades. I have it adjusted to clamp tight as possible, I'm running out of threads. Did n't look bad till I took it apart and looks pretty thin I think.

What do you all think? Also the little brake pad bracket is wore thin too. So where do I get some new skin?

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IMG_0920.JPG

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Skipper

Looks like you have plenty of clutch material.

 

Are you sure it is the clutch slipping, and not the belt?

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bo dawg

That's what I thought at first.The outside pully of the PTO slows down which slows the belt which slows the blades. I have to stop and raise the deck to let it catch up and spin fast again. It has a new drive belt and its tight on the mule. I have the linkage adjusted all the way to clamp it tight to the point it pulls the motor back some what. I've used belt dressing and it doesn't help, and it does it with a different deck on  too. Don't know what else it would be? Not sure what a new or better clutch looks like.

Edited by bo dawg

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Skipper

Hmm, well that makes me think your clutch plate does not bite as it should. Has it been in contact with oil or some other form for lube? If a diesel car gets the clutch soaked in diesel, it wont bite either. (don't ask.........) 

 

Also if it has been slipping due to not enough clamping force, you can make the surface of both the cone, and the material so that it does not bite well. 

 

I would try sanding both parts on a plane surface, and see if it helps. 

 

The cones surface that opposes the friction material should be fresh and uniform, so that it engages the friction material all over at once.

 

You have the big diameter clutch it seems, and that should easily hold on till the belt slips.

Edited by Skipper
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daveoman1966

Possibilities:  1)..are the two pulleys in the mule drive turning smooth, without drag.  2)..Are cutting blades on deck sharp.  3)..do all 3 spindles turn freely, without drag or wobble.  Just some ideas to check for.... 

You do, of course, have the deck PTO belt on the inner V of the PTO pulley...not the outer.   

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bo dawg

I think I found the problem. the snap ring wont stay in the groove. When I put it back together (after taking some brake cleaner and cleaning the clutch pad and pto bell), I noticed the ring not in the groove so I snapped it back in put it together and engaged the lever for the PTO and the ring snaps out and letting that post to slide in which wont get enough pressure against the clutch plate. Its been rubbing for a while now and I never really noticed. You can see how the end of the post is mushroomed. Plus the inner bearing looks a little dry and missing the seal.

Ok, so whats it take to fix it? I know I need a new post with crisp groove for a snap ring to stay in.

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lynnmor

Yes, you need a new "post", 2 snap rings, outer bearing (P204RR6), needle bearing (J-2420) and a seal (CR 14810).  I just ordered these parts for my 520H, your part numbers might be different.

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bo dawg

I'll have to try and find these.

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Anglo Traction

That PTO Clutch Shaft design is a weak spot of a Solid Garden Tractor design. It does not help you really, but I followed a change to it and made a Flanged Shaft when I renewed the Bearings and Seal for my Refurb-

 

DSC00712.JPG.d335bf68eb82568d106c8df4294e939e.JPG

 

DSC00833.JPG.8bc73cd8c08c332fb2cf0c2cf8c41d25.JPG

 

Being in the UK, it's easier for me to make parts than to source them. But if you know someone with a Lathe, I'm sure they would make one for you. 

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gwest_ca

When retaining rings are made most are stamped. That leaves one side with rounded edges and the other side with sharp edges. It is important to keep the sharp edge against the side of the shaft groove that is doing the work. In this case the sharp side should face out.

 

Garry

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bo dawg
1 hour ago, Anglo Traction said:

That PTO Clutch Shaft design is a weak spot of a Solid Garden Tractor design. It does not help you really, but I followed a change to it and made a Flanged Shaft when I renewed the Bearings and Seal for my Refurb-

 

DSC00712.JPG.d335bf68eb82568d106c8df4294e939e.JPG

 

DSC00833.JPG.8bc73cd8c08c332fb2cf0c2cf8c41d25.JPG

 

Being in the UK, it's easier for me to make parts than to source them. But if you know someone with a Lathe, I'm sure they would make one for you. 

Now that looks Sweet!! 

I can't do anything like that, don't know anyone either.

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bo dawg

I have never worked on one of these before, so whats the best way to take this apart to repair??

 

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Anglo Traction

Hi, Managed to find the contribution from the well respected Bob Maynard on here. Have a read of this link and it should set you well for the job.-  -PTO-  .

Regards. 

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bo dawg

Can you replace just the ball bearing without messing with the needle bearing? I don't see anything wrong with it, its just the PTO shaft, outer snap ring, and ball bearing I really need to replace.

Also wheres the quickest place to get these?

 

Edited by bo dawg

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Anglo Traction

Yep, Bearing (outer one) is an Agricultural grade, look for Z9504AB. A link here if it helps- Z9504AB

The PTO Shaft part number for your Tractor should be 102872. Please check it, a link provided here as an available example- 102872

Snap rings, I imagine are available from a local Hardware store in U.S.  

 

With care, the outer Bearing can be tapped out from the back once the Shaft is extracted. If you tap out using 3,6,9 and 12 o'clock positions, it will come out fairly square. press the new one in squarely using a large Socket or tubing of similar outer diameter.    

 

Edited by Anglo Traction
spelling
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Anglo Traction
12 hours ago, lynnmor said:

Yes, you need a new "post", 2 snap rings, outer bearing (P204RR6), needle bearing (J-2420) and a seal (CR 14810).  I just ordered these parts for my 520H, your part numbers might be different.

 

Should have said in my previous that it is in addition to the options posted by lynnmor above :hide:

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bo dawg
14 minutes ago, Anglo Traction said:

Yep, Bearing (outer one) is an Agricultural grade, look for Z9504AB. A link here if it helps- Z9504AB

The PTO Shaft part number for your Tractor should be 102872. Please check it, a link provided here as an available example- 102872

Snap rings, I imagine are available from a local Hardware store in U.S.  

 

With care, the outer Bearing can be tapped out from the back once the Shaft is extracted. If you tap out using 3,6,9 and 12 o'clock positions, it will come out fairly square. press the new one in squarely using a large Socket or tubing of similar outer diameter.    

 

The part # I show for the bearing is 106947 

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Anglo Traction
19 minutes ago, bo dawg said:

The part # I show for the bearing is 106947 

Hi , Yes I see now. Your number has changed again according to Partstree, it now reads 109842 !!. I checked all the numbers and they ALL refer to the same dimensions-

3/4" bore x 1.7805" x 0.610". I tend to go for branded Bearings as the prices and quality vary. I'm sure there will be plenty of help and purchase guidance here from Guys local to you. 

Regards         

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Anglo Traction

Found some further reading for you and  the endorsement of the revised bearing numbers is near the bottom from gwest (Garry). Regards

 

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bo dawg
5 minutes ago, Anglo Traction said:

Found some further reading for you and  the endorsement of the revised bearing numbers is near the bottom from gwest (Garry). Regards

 

Sorry I don't see it. 

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Anglo Traction

Sorry lost link, here it is-

PTO

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Skipper

If it is just a quick fix you need, then a good washer on the shaft, and a couple of welds will also do in a pinch. Heck, you could shim it all the way with washers or a piece of pipe. (if it's just a matter of getting it running again in a hurry)

 

Edited by Skipper
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bo dawg

I got it! I found another used PTO shaft And 2 new bearings for $9 a pc at Motion Industries in stock. I just might have it going later tonight. Hope fully the groove for the snap ring on the shaft is good enough to hold. Thanks guys for all the info. 

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bo dawg

Woo Hoo I got it back together today and shes back to being a fine cutting machine again. Cleaned the new/used shaft up, installed new outer bearing and new snap ring and that's all it took. Real easy to do. Now I know why she was getting bad about mowing slightly taller grass last couple seasons. Really the only thing that was holding it together was the pin that go's through the end of shaft. That's also why the bell kept grinding down the pins. Lol! Never had to mess with the PTO's on the tractors. Which now I'm gona have to look them over real good too on my others.

I appreciate all the help and encouragement.

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