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giantsean

Kohler 532 timing and other problems (maybe!)

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giantsean

Hey All,

 

Posting in Engines as it seemed the most logical place.  I have a D-200 with an original K532S.  Some may recall the tale of my exploding governor leading to a no-spark / no-start condition.  Happy to say that I have changed the oil, swapped in a used replacement governor snagged off Ebay, and she fires right up!

 

Unfortunately, I am having a bear of a time getting the timing nice nice, and yes, I have RTFM (read the manual :)).  I have a cheapo advance timing light from Harbor Freight which should still be up to the task, but rotating the governor through it's range of motion, at best I can get the D/C mark (not the SP mark which I think it should be) to come up.  I also believe the points are supposed to open at or around DC and close at S, but that's not happening either.  In addition, the points gap is not the requisite .020 but more like .012.  The replacement governor is blue so I assume it came off a Ford, but I would imagine that is too narrow for any K532.

 

The challenge I am having is there's a little too much to adjust perfectly.  Should I start with the governor position?  Points open/shut position?  If I rotate the governor will that change the spot where they open/close, or will it just change the advance?  Finally, it says hit the timing light when it's running at 1200rpm or higher... but it seems revving up changes the mark, and maybe it's because I need to turn the advance dial on my light... but there's no way to know what the advance is supposed to be.  At any rate, it runs strong no matter how I have it adjusted... maybe it wouldn't be as happy under load but I can't test that either... with no tie rods it would be a short trip :P

 

Additionally, I am still having problems with detonation after shutdown, sometimes even after idling low.  When it does pop, it sends a little wisp of smoke from the top of each cylinder at the head gasket, with a little bit of weepage.  Cranking compression is ok but I don't have a leakdown tester to see if it holds.  Probably new head gaskets are in the cards but I want to solve the root cause first.

 

I have read a lot and sadly it might be a lot of things:

 

- timing off

- points gap too narrow

- bad coil (need to test for weak spark when hot)

- carb needs rebuild

- something worse

 

I am hoping getting the timing right will make everything more clear so I will focus on that first (while hoping I don't blow it up during testing lol).  Anyway, that's where I'm at, and I would sure appreciate any further advice or ideas from those who know what they heck they are doing with these things :)

 

As always, Thanks!!!

Edited by giantsean

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Sarge

One of the main fights with my 482 was getting the timing marks to run correctly - same as your situation. The more I thought about it, the less it mattered overall and I switched my focus to fixing the valve cover gaskets and checking the valves. All 4 were way off adjustment - once that was done and new gaskets installed it was back to setting the governor and timing. Went fairly smooth, but I will say you have to follow that manual to the letter, step by step. I never put much stock in points gap, it's more about getting the timing right at the end of the day. It's worth re-reading the first few steps to set the timing and points on that twin opposed - they are pretty touchy compared to the other engines. I'd suspect the detonation or backfire after shutting down is the valves more than anything - it could also probably use a de-carbon on the heads and pistons.

 

I'll have to look back through the service manual again, memory is too fuzzy to remember the details on setting it to the flywheel marks. 

 

Sarge

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giantsean
4 hours ago, Sarge said:

One of the main fights with my 482 was getting the timing marks to run correctly - same as your situation. The more I thought about it, the less it mattered overall and I switched my focus to fixing the valve cover gaskets and checking the valves. All 4 were way off adjustment - once that was done and new gaskets installed it was back to setting the governor and timing. Went fairly smooth, but I will say you have to follow that manual to the letter, step by step. I never put much stock in points gap, it's more about getting the timing right at the end of the day. It's worth re-reading the first few steps to set the timing and points on that twin opposed - they are pretty touchy compared to the other engines. I'd suspect the detonation or backfire after shutting down is the valves more than anything - it could also probably use a de-carbon on the heads and pistons.

 

I'll have to look back through the service manual again, memory is too fuzzy to remember the details on setting it to the flywheel marks. 

 

Sarge

 

Thanks as always Sarge.  The only comment I'll make about the manual is that I may have described the process with my couple sentences in more detail than the manual does :P.  It's THAT simple (hook up light, turn governor, tighten, rock on).  I suspect on a 40 year engine the devil will be in the details, and it's along those lines I'm hoping to get any advice.  Your initial stuff above seems to align with what I'm saying if dialing it all in is indeed that much of a dance.

 

One more thing I'll add about the detonation.  Granted it's been a bit warm especially in my garage but not like shoe melting hot.  When this thing runs it gets hot FAST and starts steaming a few minutes in.  I know that can be a variety of things, just so little time to really dig.  I suspect I may have to go all in on this beast at some point, but I do think it's worth it.

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Sarge

If it's showing signs of heat like that, something is really wrong with either fuel mixture or timing, or both. Might want to take the time to pull the 4 mounting bolts, starter/ignition wiring, choke and throttle links and the nose - then slide that engine forward and remove it's main shrouds. Mine had a large mouse nest in it and most of the fins were plugged. I always start with a very bright light and a mirror to check those fins and the air flow path off of the flywheel very closely on a new to me engine. Make absolutely sure it can flow air unrestricted and has all the correct engine tins - without the air cooling that engine won't live long. These heavy twin K's generate an amazing amount of heat in short order, I've monitored oil temps inside the engine and in just 5 minutes they can easily have the oil to 170*F without working hard. I suspect most of these that have blown up were plugged and just plain overheated before breaking something - otherwise, the twin opposed K is nearly indestructible.

 

Getting the timing right is a bit of a dance, but I'm used to that with a lot of the equipment/engines I've worked on over the years and sometimes I forget it's not so easy for others. I rarely ever set the points to a factory spec, only use that as a starting point and use the static method with a meter to obtain the fine-tuning. Mine will start with a slight tap of the key - it will startle most people as you can barely notice the starter hitting for just a split second but there is no difference in how quickly it starts, either hot or cold. Just a loud bang from the starter slamming the flywheel, and it's running - I love these old twin K series. 

 

Sarge

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giantsean

Thanks and yeah all the tins are off in fact, starting last year when it first started overheating (even before it stopped firing up).  I do have to do the carb anyway and already have the kit... I really should have just done it when I had it all apart but I was too excited to see if it would start lol.  Despite it's issues, mine does also fire right up with just a couple of cranks, so it can't be all bad.

 

When you say do the static method, do you mean hooking up a test light and turning by hand and tweaking until you hit the marks?  This seems easy if not quick, but what I don't get is what those marks are supposed to exactly mean.  If you are supposed to time it w/ engine running, wouldn't the governor be advancing the spark based on RPM, or does that only kick in when it's under load?

 

Finally, do you have any experience w/ the electronic ignition kits?  I wish these K's could move to a pointless ignition but I think all they make is a low voltage conversion kit so you are not sending 2a through the points.  Reminds me of my old VW Rabbit where they'd send massive amperage through a taillight and wonder why they had problems with bulbs lol.

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Sarge

I've never used a solid state ignition kit on a small engine - never felt the need for it since a properly working points system will last for decades. Now, these days the points material is a serious downgrade to how they were built years ago, a 30yr old set, if not worn out - would be better to have than the new replacements. 

 

The static timing method is a just a base for getting it set up initially. Once the points are set, then you must use the timing light to set the final timing. Keep in mind to have the idle speed set properly - if it's off it will affect that governor/timing marks.

 

I need to sit down and read through the manual again on these twins - it's been awhile and have worked on a plethora of engines since, very fuzzy about it now. Speaking of which, I need to run the overhead on the old Land Cruiser before it gets sold as it's overdue and developing a slight tick at idle.

 

Sarge

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giantsean

Get 'er done Sarge.  This thing's got nowhere to go anytime soon... as long as my wife doesn't need the space :P

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