Implement Restoration

[Tractor boy 238]

Well the whole I joined this awesome forum was to inquire on how to go about attaching my berco two stage snowblower. Thanks to a few people on here it was attached with a little bit of headache. When I used it, it worked okay over the winter. Along with the tractor and blower I got a 42 inch blade. That was in rough shape as the cutting edge was worn down to the mold board and was starting to wear away on that. Well as the long weekend approaches I figured, I might as well give it some long needed TLC. The key points in this resto will include 

1. Patching the mold board with some flat stock so it is again usable. 

2. A fairly complete strip down of parts. This will include repair/replace all broken parts. 

3. Possibly strip the paint down and repaint when ready. 

This leads to some questions 

- The bottom of the trip springs is bolted to a piece of threaded rod. This seems that it unlikely factory as the diagram shows one but per side. Is it better for the plow to have each spring separately bolted to the mold board or bolted together with the threaded rod? 

-Are there any parts that I should replace besides the cutting edge while I have this torn apart. 

Here is the toro parts diagrams so you can see what I’m working on. 

Parts diagram link- https://www.toro.com/en/parts/partdetails/?id=22212

 

Parts list- https://www.torodealer.com/en-US/Pages/parts.aspx?Model=79350&Serial=8900001&MybeId=22212&PageId=345163&IllustrationI

 

I have the book and from what I can read off the serial plate I believe I have a model 79350. No serial yet as that part still needs to be cleaned. 

Pictures will be coming in the afternoon when I go out to work on it. Here is a pic of it before I tore into it. 

As you can see it is very rusty and crusty to work on. 

Thats all for now, and enjoy the resto -Tractorboy. 

[squonk 38,844]

That plow can't be much worse than this one. Here's @AMC RULES banging and grinding away on one of mine during Skonkfest 2014. 

[953 nut 51,487]

22 minutes ago, squonk said:

That plow can't be much worse than this one. Here's @AMC RULES banging and grinding away on one of mine during Skonkfest 2014. 

 

                           Mike, I don't see a picture! Is it a magic picture like Craig's Magic shed?               

[ebinmaine 62,949]

 

[squonk 38,844]

Musta been hacked! Darn Ruskies! I'll try again! 

[Tractor boy 238]

1 hour ago, squonk said:

Musta been hacked! Darn Ruskies! I'll try again! 

Hey at least you could unbolt your cutting edge. Mine had to come off with a torch. @ebinmaine hope you enjoy the build. -Tractorboy 

[Ed Kennell 35,589]

It is best to have one solid 1/2" rod  (not threaded)  thru both springs.  The spring ends must be free to rotate when the blade trips.

You can buy the two factory rods from TORO for $60+ or buy a 36" length of 1/2" rod from TSC for $6 and make two rods. 

[squonk 38,844]

1 hour ago, Ed Kennell said:

It is best to have one solid 1/2" rod  (not threaded)  thru both springs.  The spring ends must be free to rotate when the blade trips.

You can buy the two factory rods from TORO for $60+ or buy a 36" length of 1/2" rod from TSC for $6 and make two rods. 

And pick up some Teddy's rootbeer and a 3 Musketeers bar while you're there! 

[Tractor boy 238]

3 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

It is best to have one solid 1/2" rod  (not threaded)  thru both springs.  The spring ends must be free to rotate when the blade trips.

You can buy the two factory rods from TORO for $60+ or buy a 36" length of 1/2" rod from TSC for $6 and make two rods. 

Then I guess you tap and die or drill holes on the end and pin those?

[WVHillbilly520H 10,369]

5 hours ago, Tractor boy said:

Then I guess you drill holes on the end and pin those?

Yes drill 1/8" or a bit smaller holes for cotter or hair pin cotters...zoom in and you'll see...

[Tractor boy 238]

So little was accomplished today. I got the mold board and springs of the frame. The springs are still attached to the moldboard frame via the threaded rod. If you zoom in, you can see the po cross threaded two nuts are per side. The problem I’m having is I can’t get any grip on the rod or nuts while I’m trying to spin the other nuts off with a rachet. I do have a of rod the right size and length in my stockpile. I’m not sure on how to go about drilling holes in it for the cotter pins. I would just cut the threaded rod in the middle, slide the springs off and scrap the threaded rod but part of me wants to save it and use it on the plow for the rear attachment point as I have two bolts in place for that. Any thoughts on that? I also grabbed a couple of pics for you guys. I noticed today that there is 3-4 holes for the springs to mount to. I did a little bit of digging and couldn’t find what the point of this adjustment would be, so does anyone have any ideas about that?

-Tractorboy 

[Ed Kennell 35,589]

Use a 3/4 " box end wrench to hold one outside nut, then ratchet the outside nut on the other end.   One of the nuts will turn off...doesn't matter which one.  Then move the wrench or socket in to the other nut.  Three of the nuts can be removed this way.   Then just slide the rod out with the one nut still on.

 

The four holes in the blade are to adjust the angle of the blade.   The top hole tilts the blade back and the bottom hole tilts the blade forward.

 

Grind a small flat on the ends of the new rods and centerpunch the location for the new drilled holes for the hairpin clips or cotter pins.

 

[Ed Kennell 35,589]

11 hours ago, squonk said:

And pick up some Teddy's rootbeer and a 3 Musketeers bar while you're there! 

And a free hat from my new local TSC that had their Grand Opening today.

 

 

[Sarge 3,462]

I make my cross rods out of 312 SS, but any good carbon steel rod will work. I prefer to put a slight point on the ends of the rods and make them a bit longer for servicing and changing the blade's pitch angle - really helps speed up your work.

 

Not everyone owns a drill press or a milling machine - or a shop for that matter. There are always inexpensive tools to help with this type of stuff - especially drilling holes in round stock or just keeping them square and straight on anything, for that matter.

Gator Tools V-drillguide is well made and designed to be used with a hand drill. Keep in mind, this design requires having enough room to clamp the guide onto the material. There are alignment marks lasered into the tool for easy reference - makes drilling straight holes in the field much easier.  Lifetime warranty, made in USA - all good.

https://www.shop.biggatortools.com/main.sc

 

Sarge

[Ed Kennell 35,589]

Here are a few pics of a factory made rod.

 

[Tractor boy 238]

Okay thanks for the help. After the busy weekend I finally had some more time to work on it today. So as far as new parts go here’s the list. 

1. Threaded rod to replace the back mount bar. I needed this as there is two bolts I had laying around in there now. 

2. Nuts and washers for said rod. 

3. A bunch of various replacement cottor pins as I broke most of them, getting them out. 

4. Vinager (to soak the springs in so I don’t have to deal with those). 

5. One carbide tipped drill bit to drill the holes in steel rod. (Don’t remember the size of the top of my head.). 

6. (This one isn’t new as I already had it from a previous unrelated project) Roughly 50 inches of solid steel rod which is the same size as the old threaded rod. 

Now for the work. I cut the rod that was holding the springs to the plow off. After that I pulled the springs off and stuck them in a pan with some vinegar. The rod went into the scrap pile. Then I started wire brushing the mold board to remove years worth of rust and crud. After sleeping on it for a couple nights and thinking about it, I decided to sand down and paint the whole thing. I’ve  decided that since this is a really small and simple project this will be a spray can job. This leads to a few more questions. 

1. Any ideas on how to clean and tape the serial plague as I don’t have any access to a riveter? 

2. Should I have grey steel or is paint okay to paint on top off. 

3. If I paint on top the old paint would this mean I have to use a primer. 

4 Finally does @Vinylguy have a complete set of decals for this model, or do I need to get them separately as I didn’t really see any on his website. 

-Thanks for all the help, Tractorboy 

[Tractor boy 238]

Also how would one go about removing said decals but keeping them intact? I think it would make some cool tool box art 

[953 nut 51,487]

9 hours ago, Tractor boy said:

how would one go about removing said decals but keeping them intact?

I believe in miraculous healing but this may beyond the power of prayer!               

 

14 hours ago, Tractor boy said:

If I paint on top the old paint would this mean I have to use a primer.

You should sand and wire brush the old paint to remove anything that is not well adhered to the steel. A couple of coats of primer and sanding to provide a smooth base followed by another coat of primer should give you a good printable surface. It won't be as good as going to bare metal, but good enough to last.