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kto434

Charger 9

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kto434

Guys, I need some advice/help.  I am going to look at a Charger 9 this weekend.  I am not familiar with that model/vintage WH.  Are there things specific to that model I need to look at or be aware of?  It is an “automatic” by which I assume hydrostatic tranny.  Is the hydro used in that model known to be reliable/good?  A few years ago you all helped me learn about and pass on, for instance, a 518-H because of its weak (general consensus) Eaton 700 tranny—which almost no one liked/recommended.  I need help with stuff like that—generally whether the Charger 9 is a model to stay away from because of [fill in the blank]. . .

 

It comes with a 42-inch SD deck (which looks different from the WH decks I am familiar with that mount using the attach-a-matic system.  Can I mount the 36-inch deck presently on my 312-8 on a Charger without “hanger” modification?  The PTO mule drive setup looks different than I am familiar with too.

 

Thanks for your advice/help.

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953 nut

:WRS:

The Charger 9 is a very good hydro tractor as long as everything is functioning properly when you buy it. If the Tecumseh engine is not in running order and has no spark it could be a money pit so don't pay very much. A good Sundstrand Hydro is quite strong and dependable. To test it just drive it around for a few minutes until it warms up then chain it to a tree and see if it will spin the tires, do this in both directions. If it will, you are good to go!

You would need to add a mule drive to the front to operate the newer deck.

 

1-7931 1968 Lawn & Garden Tractor Charger 9 Automatic Tecumseh HH100-115095B 10 Sundstrand 90-2046

1-7932 1968 Lawn & Garden Tractor Charger 9 Automatic Tecumseh HH100-115095B 10 Sundstrand 90-2046

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daveoman1966

I have a 1972 Bronco 14 with the same Sndstrand Hydro-gear power unit # 90-2046.  I bought it as a dealer demo in 1973.  Never had any issue with it, except for the main drive belt that I have to replace in 2005 or 2006.  (32 + years service from the OEM belt...)  The charger 9 shoul also have the 10-pinion LSD differential ...also a plus (for most guys).  If you buy it, I'd recommend modifing it to accommodate the more modern front mule drive which can be done in an hour or so.  All you gotta do is drill the from frame under the hood to accept the front tach-o-matic hitch and you'll need a different drive belt.  Herre is a Raider 10 that I upgraded a few years back.  I have all the parts to do this if you go that route.  

ADAPT (10).jpg

ADAPT (14).JPG

MULE-10A.jpg

MULE-18.jpg

MULE-32.JPG

MULE-35.JPG

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daveoman1966

a couple other pics...

MULE-45.jpg

raid 12.jpg

rapp 001.JPG

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kto434

Thanks so much guys.  I will let you know how it goes and may be in touch for the parts offered.  

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kto434

It understand now the Charger 9 came in two flavors: Model 1-7931 (early production models) and Model 1-7932 (later production models)--if I got it right.  When early became late exactly is unclear to me.  Are there any material differences between the two models I should care about?  I read somewhere Model 1-7932 (the later production model) uses a "better" differential than Model 1-7931.  If I purchase the tractor, I will use it to low about a half acre of grass on a pancake flat lot and sometimes pull a small yard cart.  Any further advice/comments are appreciate!

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WheelHorse_of_course

9 HP is not much for a 42" deck on a hydro tractor. If you are likely to let the grass get long, you may be disappointed. That said, you can do 50% overlap when the grass is tall and you would probably be fine.

 

My Charger 12 came with 36" deck and I upgraded to 42" and in some ways was disappointed.

 

Your mileage may vary!

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gwest_ca

Click on the pictures below

Odd that no serials have shown up for the late production unless I missed them. Perhaps the total numbers are very low.

 

Garry

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kto434

I took the attached pics when looking at the tractor today.  Tranny seems fine.  Based on 1-7931 model number, it is an early Charger 9 WITHOUT the 10 pinion transaxle.  It runs, but runs rough, spits and sputters, back fires occassionally.  Seller says it will not restart once hot.  It does not burn oil in a way you can see or smell.  The motor bogs down when engaging the mower and dies.  The good news is it appears complete and mostly original.  Seller wants $425 (even if worth that, it is more than I would pay for it).

 

I passed on it for now.  Please share thoughts.  Thanks.

F613DDE5-B445-4A48-A8AE-88A02AF56164.jpeg

624FB637-7ED9-4BD1-B5D9-98E3EC1E438B.jpeg

05266FCB-E606-468B-BD56-7F64CAEB3F7E.jpeg

3B566906-B2CF-4BC2-A866-57DDC0E7EF39.jpeg

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kto434

I ended up buying the tractor for a price I was comfortable with.  It is going to get a good cleaning up before I start working to get it running (better) again.

 

It has a Tecumseh HH100 115095B motor, original WH branded tires, original seat with WH emblem, appears to be an original, unmolested unit.  I will share my fits and starts getting it running well again as I go.  Any suggestions/advice is welcome.  I am never too old to learn something new/better.  Thanks!

 

 

4A5BDB95-1A69-42A2-89A9-90EB5BDFC567.jpeg

F592CA41-AEB8-4429-8954-DE69289C86B3.jpeg

CD27BA5D-B9F4-43CA-82FE-693CD207954B.jpeg

C8DC59F0-34D7-4BFC-BB1E-5E8BC3124867.jpeg

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953 nut
On 6/23/2018 at 11:46 AM, kto434 said:

It runs, but runs rough, spits and sputters, back fires occassionally.  Seller says it will not restart once hot.  It does not burn oil in a way you can see or smell.  The motor bogs down when engaging the mower and dies.

:text-coolphotos:     I would begin by replacing the fuel lines and filter and use only ethanol free gas. https://www.pure-gas.org/  Add double the recommended amount of Sea foam gas additive and replace your spark plug. This is a low cost first step at getting the engine to run better. 

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kto434

Will do, thanks.  I emptied the gas in the gas tank and it was clearly very old/stale.  I want to remove and clean the gas tank too.  Your suggestions help too.  Will report further as I get into it.

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kto434

Choke cable is froze.  Any suggestions on freeing it up gentle without damaging it?

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953 nut
5 hours ago, kto434 said:

cable is froze.  Any suggestions on freeing it up

Presuming it does not have a plastic jacket on it you can spray penetrating oil (PB Blaster, KROil Liquid Wrench etc.) on the outside and fill the cable from both ends as best you can. Let it soak in a few days and see if it will move.

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Pullstart
On 7/3/2018 at 9:49 PM, 953 nut said:

Presuming it does not have a plastic jacket on it you can spray penetrating oil (PB Blaster, KROil Liquid Wrench etc.) on the outside and fill the cable from both ends as best you can. Let it soak in a few days and see if it will move.

Didn’t realize you can penetrate through the metal sheathing, I’ve been spraying down through the carb end of the 857 for a week!

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kto434

Thanks for the advice re the frozen choke cable.  I did as you said after inspecting the cable and locating a severely rusted area maybe 3 inches long.  After spraying it well with Deep Creep (all I had on hand) it loosened up nicely and now moves freely/smoothly.

 

I have yet to try starting it, but it has new fuel lines/fuel filter, carb has been cleaned well, and I replaced the damaged fuel pump with a vacuum type pump, drained/cleaned gas tank, and new spark plug gapped per OM.  Am getting closer to trying to start it.  Thanks for all the help/advice.  I will post a link to a video showing first start attempts (if that is permitted by club rules—gotta check into that).

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953 nut
On 7/7/2018 at 8:35 AM, pullstart said:

Didn’t realize you can penetrate through the metal sheathing,

:text-yeahthat:        The sheathing is like an extension spring, the coils are tightly wound, but there is room for penetrant to work.

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