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srose3070

Lubricant Question

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Well the Transmission for my 84' Workhorse is finally ready. I will install, Lord Willing, this weekend. I have a question on the lubricant type. It takes 90# I am pretty sure. I have a lubricant chart and it only gives T-1, T-2 and so on and the type of luibricant with each. I am unsure as to what type (T-1, T-2...) the Workhorse with the 8 speed hi/lo is. There are only as couple of choices that match my transmission and both are 90# one is 90#EP and the other is 90#API? Any help appreciated as always.

Thanks a bunch

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My lube chart shows all the 1984 eight speeds use code "T-3". That is SAE 90-140 A.P.I. service GL-5 gear lubricant. It should hold two quarts.

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90-140 is too heavy, espescially if you are in a colder climate and use the tractor for snow duty. Put in 80/90 and don't look back...... Its plenty heavy and you will have no problems.

Tony

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I have a C-125 which is about the same year as your Workhorse and I use 80-90w.

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Using only two quarts, might be worth usin' 80w90 synthetic gear lube.

Any thoughts on using synthetic?

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It has never had synthetic so what is it missing? Plus alot of synthetic s are thinner, I have heard of people putting it in engines for example (synthetic oil) and they develop lifters clicking and such because it isn't the same viscosity as the recommended oil.

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I use 80-90w GL-5 in mine. I change mine frequently, so I wouldn't even consider synthetic. :twocents-02cents:

Matt :flags-texas:

Agreed. The price of synthetic gear lube, for our Horses is overkill.

 

Years ago UPS started using 80w90 synthetic gear lube. Their preventive maintenance computer programs have proven tyranny's last much longer using synthetic. UPS was using Mobil (I delivered it). :eusa-think:

 

A friend racing autos, was getting one race per rear. After changing to synthetic gear lube he got three races per rear. :eusa-think:

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You might try outboard lower unit oil, much more tolerant

of water and yellow metal, or Royal Purple used by US

Military, Pricey but with good seals will last till your grand kids

are grown. HE ! HE !

              About to go to the Hog-Trough Buffet   In Texas

                                                                      JIM

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Remember this is a garden tractor and not a Semi rolling down the road at hi-way speed for hours on end. You are not going to build up the heat or pressure's that a large piece of equipment will build up or a race care running at high rpm creating heat in the transmission. Like said 80-90 will be just fine. Plus it will be a lot kinder to that transmission in winter use.

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Remember this is a garden tractor and not a Semi rolling down the road at hi-way speed for hours on end. You are not going to build up the heat or pressure's that a large piece of equipment will build up or a race care running at high rpm creating heat in the transmission. Like said 80-90 will be just fine. Plus it will be a lot kinder to that transmission in winter use.

 

Yes, but have you ever felt the diff. after snow blowing for about 2hrs. If that isn't heat, then I am not sure what is....

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Remember this is a garden tractor and not a Semi rolling down the road at hi-way speed for hours on end. You are not going to build up the heat or pressure's that a large piece of equipment will build up or a race care running at high rpm creating heat in the transmission. Like said 80-90 will be just fine. Plus it will be a lot kinder to that transmission in winter use.

 

Yes, but have you ever felt the diff. after snow blowing for about 2hrs. If that isn't heat, then I am not sure what is....

 

Well yes it does get warm, but if it gets so warm that 80-90 can't handle it then I would say somethings wrong or the operator doing something they should not be doing.

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Interesting thread! I always love discussion lubricants, oils, viscosities, etc.

 

I am a fan of Mobil 1 but I do not use the synthetic oil in my engines, instead I use a Pennsylvania racing/high performance oil called Brad Penn.

http://www.penngrade1.com/Default.aspx

 

However, I recently just changed the tranny oil in my 312-8 since it has been a good six months since the walmart brand has been slushing around in there after I did a full kero/ATF flush. I have changed to Lucas 80-90 as I had bought some awhile ago when I first got my 414-8. After I run out of Lucas I will be transitioning over to Mobil 1 synthetic 80-90. It does feel "thinner" in the bottle which is my only concern but I trust Mobil 1 synthetic for my lubricant needs.

 

When I switch to Mobil 1, I will post my experience with it.

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80W90 is fine 2 qts of what ever brand you feel comfortable with. I have a 1975 that had dino in it from the factory, and lasted until a seal went out in 2007. There was water in the oil when I drained it, so I filled it back up with synthetic lube. 

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Because rear end lube is so cheap I change it yearly so a long term synthetic I find not worth the expense.  When 80/90 weight is supposed to be used DO NOT USE 140.  The heavier lube has a tendency to grip the gears and fling out the breather ( seen on motorcycles)

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I change my axle fluid every 40 years, and no problems.  Just changed it on my 1976 B80 and it looked fairly clean--no trace of water.   I marked my calendar for the next service.   Hope to continue this discussion with you all at that time.

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I don't think that I will be here for that discussion :disgust:

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I don't think that I will be here for that discussion :disgust:

It is not too early to clear your calendar of potential conflicts

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I don't think that I will be here for that discussion :disgust:

 

I may be, but nobody will be able to understand what I have to say. :)

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synthetic is not thinner just slicker which is where the fuel milage and power increase comes from i run it in my stuff


plus synthetic is keeps things cleaner and lubricates better

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