Kohler k91 not starting (update #2)

[Brent Fabian 57]

I recently started working on a 1960 wheel horse 400 with the Kohler k91T engine. The tractor was taken care of, not seized engine or anything. It turns out the exhaust valve was stuck open and not allowing for compression. Now that I have it ready, I'm trying to start it and it's not firing. A very quick look into it showed I get less than a volt when the engine trys to spark. I'd look into it further but I had to run do something else. Anybody got any ideas to get a better spark?

[953 nut 51,627]

I would start by cleaning or replacing the points. Old condensers are prone to failure, unhook the condenser lead and see if spark improves. You can get spark without the condenser, but need it for long term to protect the points.

[rmaynard 14,888]

The K91 has a magneto and points under the flywheel. Where are you checking for voltage?

[Brent Fabian 57]

I took apart the distributor, and it turns out the little ground wire next to the magneto was completely destroyed, as in there was one little copper strand still connected. I'll have to solder the connection back together, clean up the points and verify the gap, and hopefully that fixes it. Hopefully tomorrow I'll take some photos of the tractor for reference.

[953 nut 51,627]

8 hours ago, rmaynard said:

K91 has a magneto and points under the flywheel.

You sure, the four K 91s I have all have external covers over the points with a kill switch.

[Brent Fabian 57]

It has tge points in the spot like yours, but under the flywheel is the could of copper wire, and the magneto. 

[rmaynard 14,888]

41 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

You sure, the four K 91s I have all have external covers over the points with a kill switch.

I meant to say magneto and condenser. Thanks for catching that.

[Brent Fabian 57]

On 5/14/2018 at 9:03 PM, 953 nut said:

I would start by cleaning or replacing the points. Old condensers are prone to failure, unhook the condenser lead and see if spark improves. You can get spark without the condenser, but need it for long term to protect the points.

Do you happen to know what the gap for the points should be?

[953 nut 51,627]

About .019 to .020 will get the job done.

[Brent Fabian 57]

I got that wire soldered together that broke, cleaned up the points, put everything back together, and it is still only pulling under a volt. Anybody got any other suggestions other than replace parts? If anybody is wondering, I'm checking for voltage at the sparkplug.

[rmaynard 14,888]

How are you checking it? Most meters won't read spark plug voltage without a high voltage adaptor like this.

Edited May 16, 2018 by rmaynard

[Brent Fabian 57]

1 hour ago, rmaynard said:

How are you checking it? Most meters won't read spark plug voltage without a high voltage adaptor like this.

I'm just using a basic multimeter set to 20V.

[wallfish 15,918]

What happens if you lay a spark plug on the head and pull it over.

[rmaynard 14,888]

13 minutes ago, Brent Fabian said:

I'm just using a basic multimeter set to 20V.

Trying to read 20,000 volts set at 20 volts is a good way to fry your meter.

[953 nut 51,627]

The spark is a rapid collapse of a magnetic field, multi meters are built to read continuous voltage, not instantaneous. Like john said, check it with a plug or get a spark tester.

Edited May 17, 2018 by 953 nut
fat finger

[Brent Fabian 57]

14 hours ago, 953 nut said:

The spark is a rapid collapse of a magnetic field, multi meters are built ton read continuous voltage, not instantaneous. Like john said, check it with a plug or get a spark tester.

I'll be sure to get one. But in addition to that, I used the classic 'hold the wire while I pull the cord, and it felt like a little tickle. Kinda like when you build up static electricity and touch a doorknob

[buckrancher 2,675]

replace the coil