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Cee245

416h front wheel bearing removal

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Cee245

Ok, I have a couple dumb questions... 

I need to replace my front wheel bearings on my 416, I have the new bearings...

What tools are needed? And any tips are great!

Thanks

Cory

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daveoman1966

Use a long extension bar and insert thru one side... make it bottom against the opposite side bearing and tap the bearing out with small hammer.  Flip over dnad do the same for other side.  To install, just lightly tap in place with a wood mallet of 2x4 blockk.

 

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Cee245

Thanks @daveoman1966. I tried using a craftsman 6" 3/8 extension like usual but I couldn't get a bite on the bearing... and fyi, these are the spindles and 8" wheels I bought from you about 2 yrs ago. Thanks again bud 

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Aldon

I concur with Dave. 

 

Removing the bearings just requires some force using a long screw driver or other implement.

 

Then replacement is simply tap in new bearing.

 

 

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Ed Kennell

I find a tapered pin punch works well.

 

TEKTON-66059-3-8-Inch-Pin-Punch-Reverse-tapered-USA-made

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Cee245

Thanks guys! It ended up being really easy once I used the right tool... 

I did notice a very small amount of play in the spindles. Are there bushings in there? If so, anyone have a favorite place to order or the part number?

Thanks

Cory 

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pfrederi

No bushings in the front axle for the spindles

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Skipper

If you have play in the spindles, you really only have tree options. 1. live with it. 2. find a front axle with no slip. 3. ream out the axle and insert bushings, perhaps with new spindles as they also get worn when the axle starts to go.

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Cee245

Appreciate the info fellas... I never noticed it before I replaced the Wheel bearings. It is a very small amount of play. 

Has anyone here done as @Skipper suggests on option 3? (Put bushings on the spindles)

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Skipper

Pull the spindle and clean it out, then you get a better idea of the wear.

 

Yes it has been done, and if you search you will find a thread about it. I will see if I can locate it in a bit ;-) 

 

Here is ONE thread about it. You can find more.: 

 

You should be aware that they were not absolutely play free from new. Dont rule them dead because of a little play, but of cause they will be better and last longer with no play :-) 

Edited by Skipper
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wallfish
3 hours ago, Cee245 said:

Has anyone here done as @Skipper suggests on option 3? (Put bushings on the spindles)

Did a few. I used a 7/8" construction reamer and a drill. inserted  7/8 OD x 3/4 ID bronze bushings. Drilled a hole in the bushings for the grease zerk too

 

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Sarge

Just be aware that boring these axles out requires a lot of skill and practice if you're going to do this by hand - the best method is with a milling machine or a very heavy duty drill press. Some of the axles I've rebuilt have had a very large amount of wear - those must be corrected before the job is complete to keep the steering geometry correct. Otherwise, the wheels end up with some nasty camber and it will show - not to mention wear the tires quickly. Once you go with bronze or brass bushings it makes the axle rebuildable much easier and will prolong its lifespan - there is no reason to toss a worn axle since they can be repaired. Only so many parts left out there, we need to save all we can or eventually, the hobby will die off.

 

Sarge

 

 

 

 

 

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Cee245

Thanks for the replies... I think I'd be in over my head as far as perfectly fixing the spinal play... it isn't anything that worries me. Just noticed a tiny amount of play that apparently was designed that way. 

@daveoman1966,

I have a small bit of play in the steering wheel. You actually showed me how to fix and I don't remember now...

I have good tie rods spindles bearings ect.

Thanks Cory 

 

Sorry, I have a medical condition called CRS. Lol

Edited by Cee245
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