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Stealth126

Clutch Spring

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Stealth126

Anybody know what the replacement would be for the clutch spring on a 1067? Part number 1014 is very simply discontinued with no replacement I can find. I'm sure I could figure it out with 25 bucks and trial and error but figured I'd see what you guys can help with.

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BOB ELLISON

This is what I found.

The original # 1014 spring has been replaced by Toro # 83-2730

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Stealth126

Thanks a lot. I'll look it up.

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ebinmaine

I just recently bought a couple for B and C tractors from RCPW.

Less than ten bucks With shipping.

Least expensive I could find.

Showed up in a Toro bag.

 

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gwest_ca

I found the 83-2730 spring replaced 1486 that was used as a pair on the early Lawn Ranger mower deck clutch.

The 1984 8-speed clutch pedal spring was 108035 and still available from Toro.

Appears to be quite a difference if the photo's are accurate.

 

Garry

83-2730 spring replaces 1486.jpg

108035 1984 8-speed clutch pedal spring.jpg

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Stealth126

That wasmy confusion. I almost pulled the trigger on a 108035 but couldn't get over the different appearance. Tough to believe it works the same.

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Stealth126

Although, maybe it was an improvement because my spring stretches out pretty good. That longer spring would probably have pretty good tension since it expands less. My issue is that with the worn out spring my drive belt flops too much.

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WHX??

I just got one from a hardware store. Has the extensions on it for ez install. Works fine lasts along time. Slide a short piece of tubing over it to keep it from wearing on the break band.

20170226_153447.jpg

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Lane Ranger

 

Something worth Noting about Wheel Horse/Toro Clutch Springs

 

Interesting thing about these Wheel Horse clutch springs.   The original 1014 spring is shorter than the replacement 108035.    My clutch spring on my 603  (red one missing one end rusted off in photo)  was a little wider than the 83-2730  (a later replacement)   and the  current clutch spring version 108035  is really too long to properly clutch that transmission.   

 

Yes, you can adjust the brake band but not enough on the 603 version.    I do have a couple of the 83-2730 versions that are New Old Stock but I also note then are a little narrower on the spring as seen in my photo this from this morning.

 

 

 

083.JPG

 

Edited by Lane Ranger
added text
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WHX??
18 minutes ago, Lane Ranger said:

original 1014 spring is shorter than the replacement 108035

That's why I went to the hardware store and bought a small mitt full of different sizes and used the one that worked best. The 83-2730 just didn't give me the clutch feel I desired.

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Stealth126

Decided on the 83-2730 based on the size proximity. A rubber band would be better than what's left of my current spring, so it can't be worse. I'll keep you posted.

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Stealth126

Anybody know what size the rear wheel is in an 800 special? A guy has some wheel weights and I wanted to know if they would fit my 1067.

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Stealth126

I bought a set screw for the rear pulley on my drive belt. Put it in today and stripped the threads straight away. Hardly any pressure. The screw was missing so it was probably stripped to start with. I don't even know how the screw was supposed to work. There was no opening to tighten it to the transmission shaft. So currently the only thing holding that pulley on is the belt cover. Anybody know how that's supposed to work. Or what my best option to fix it would be? 

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953 nut
8 hours ago, Stealth126 said:

Anybody know what size the rear wheel is in an 800 special? A guy has some wheel weights and I wanted to know if they would fit my 1067.

Both have the same size 12" wheels.

8 hours ago, Stealth126 said:

set screw for the rear pulley on my drive belt. Put it in today and stripped the threads straight away.

Remove the pulley and drill and tap it for the next larger size set screw.

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Stealth126

Should I drill all the way through so the screw would set in the shaft? I would have thought that's how it would work, but the original hole doesn't go through. As it is, I can't figure out what the screw was supposed to do.

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953 nut
26 minutes ago, Stealth126 said:

but the original hole doesn't go through

Many time a set screw was tightened against the key and a second set screw was tightened against it to lock it in place.

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Stealth126

Can you explain that further? There is a hole that's threaded inthe pulley. Where do I put the 2nd screw?

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953 nut
4 hours ago, 953 nut said:

Many time a set screw was tightened against the key and a second set screw was tightened against it to lock it in place.

Like I said, a set screw is tightened down against the key on the shaft. Now a second set screw is tightened on top of it acting as a lock to prevent the first one from being able to back out. They both go in the same hole!

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Stealth126

Where I'm hung up is that the hole doesn't go through to touch the key. I'm guessing that's how the threads got stripped. You tighten it down to the bottom of the hole and accomplish nothing. Maybe it was a mistake. I thoughtI must be thinking wrong. I understand what you're saying now. I'll drill it through and retap it. Problem solved.

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gwest_ca

If you are going to use 2 set screws in the hole grind the cupped point off the outer or second screw. If you don't what happens is the cupped point enters the hex hole on the first screw and the taper flares the top of the first screw out so tight it can't be removed.

 

Garry

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Stealth126

I got it fixed. It's locked on the pulley. The new spring puts a lot more tension on the belt too. A lot less play and vibration. Also put a new composite or plastic fuel pump on. The old one pumped, but leaked oil from the case and leaked gas around the diaphragm. Put a new air filter on too. It really cuts the grass nice. Deck needs a rebuild. Winter project I guess.

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Stealth126

I just picked up a Wheel Horse lawn sweeper yesterday. Anyone know where I could find a digital copy of the manual or parts list for it? It's in fair shape, but the height adjuster is broken and the hitch looks homemade.

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Stealth126

Also, anyone have trouble with the new plastic fuel pumps? I was getting a little fuel in the crankcase, so I replaced the fuel pump. I'm sure it was coming through the carb, but I thought it couldn't hurt. Turns out it could hurt. After getting it set up I readjusted the carb and I have cut the grass twice. Tonight as my son and I are mowing, it starts to sputter a bit. Then after another pass it died. The first thing I checked is fuel flow and sure enough just a trickle. The arm barely touches the cam. It is so touchy that if you tighten the bolts with the pump slid up as far as it will go it won't pump enough fuel. You actually have to slide the pump down as far as it can with the slop around the bolts in order for the cam to barely touch the arm enough to pump fuel. Did I get a junk pump or is this the way it works? 

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JP56
On 4/24/2018 at 11:26 AM, Lane Ranger said:

 

Something worth Noting about Wheel Horse/Toro Clutch Springs

 

Interesting thing about these Wheel Horse clutch springs.   The original 1014 spring is shorter than the replacement 108035.    My clutch spring on my 603  (red one missing one end rusted off in photo)  was a little wider than the 83-2730  (a later replacement)   and the  current clutch spring version 108035  is really too long to properly clutch that transmission.   

 

Yes, you can adjust the brake band but not enough on the 603 version.    I do have a couple of the 83-2730 versions that are New Old Stock but I also note then are a little narrower on the spring as seen in my photo this from this morning.

 

 

 

083.JPG

 

I have a 74 C-100, and an 88 312-2. Some minor differences, but they both take the same spring technically. My IPL is for the 75 model year (supposedly identical, & printed 10/74) says it is #1014. My IPL for the 88 312-8 says it is a 108035. So I purchased one that says TORO OEM 108035 to replace the one on the 74 because the one on it is old and weak & when I git the tractor, it had the rear hook snapped off & they had straightened out the broken end, fed it thru the axle hole & bent it with pliers. The sprig arrived & I was mowing with the 88 & suddenly the clutch pedal went all the way forward & Flat. So I look and find that the pin that holds the Clutch arm end onto the cross shaft to the pully was rotating instead of stopping when you depress the clutch. The pin holding it in place had sheared off on both sides of the shaft. After getting the arm off and driving out the 3 broken pieces of pin from arm & shaft, I decided to put the new spring on the newer tractor since I already had it apart. I only gave a quick look at the springs side by side to check for any difference in length & spring thickness & they appeared to be the same part. then I went to put the spring on and had a hard time trying to get one end or the other to go into the hole after hooking in the opposite end first. After trying to switch which hole I put in first with the same result I put the springs side by side again & realized that the original spring on the tractor when I got it was wound in a clockwise direction from top to bottom, with both hooks facing in the same direction, but the brand new TORO OEM replacement spring was wound in a counter clockwise direction, and the hooks were facing about one quarter of a turn apart which had me bending the spring at a hell of an angle to get the other end into the hole. Chinese Parts? They do tend to wind things backwards there from my experience. That's about the only problem I had with the newer spring. Once I got it into place, it seem to work just fine, but it does tend to rub a bit on the brake rod, bt not the shoe. The same thing happens on my 74 C-100 with the spring & rod.

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peter lena

@Stealth126  in addition  to a spring , most important thing is RELATED RUSTY LINKAGES , have any aerosol  penetrating lubricant ?  nozzle tube extension ? grease gun ?  while  you are in the area , lubricate the lift lever cross shaft , transmission  areas , watch the rust run out . only a suggestion , should work with out effort , pete

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