Jump to content
Stanley

Onan Voltage Regulator question

Recommended Posts

Stanley

The battery on  my 93 520H is not charging.  When checking the ac voltage to the regulator I was getting approx. 27v at idle and 52v at full throttle using a cheap meter. These voltages are in between the 20 ampere system and the 35 ampere system. I searched for part 191-1847 (35 amp)and found 1 listed for over $400.00 and many listed for 191-2208 (20 amp) for$10 to $15

Any ideas on why there is such  a large difference.      I am going to try the $10 to $15 20 ampere regulator

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
gwest_ca

The Onan's are all advertised as being 20 amp in the Wheel Horse/Toro info.

 

Garry

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
cleat

Yep, just get the cheap one.

 

Make sure your regulator is properly grounded.

 

Are you getting 14V DC at the center terminal with the engine running at full throttle?

If so then there is a wiring issue somewhere else.

 

Do you get 12V at the center terminal with the engine off ?

If not then there is a wiring issue somewhere else.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Ed Kennell

The $20 regulators work fine.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WHX??

:text-yeahthat:

:WRS: Stanley

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Stanley

Thanks everyone. I am ordering new one off of Amazon. 

I had no voltage from the center tab to ground while running at full throttle.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
lynnmor

The regulators are as low as $9.95 on a popular auction site.  Most of the cheap ones there are from the same manufacturer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
gwest_ca
7 hours ago, Stanley said:

I had no voltage from the center tab to ground while running at full throttle.

You should at least have battery voltage. If you don't the wire from the regulator center terminal to the battery + is compromised somewhere.

 

Two reasons for it.

These regulators need to see battery voltage to turn them on so to speak. Then they can regulate the charge current to charge the battery.

The regulator uses that wire to get the charge current to the battery.

 

Garry

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ericj
3 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

You should at least have battery voltage. If you don't the wire from the regulator center terminal to the battery + is compromised somewhere.

 

Two reasons for it.

These regulators need to see battery voltage to turn them on so to speak. Then they can regulate the charge current to charge the battery.

The regulator uses that wire to get the charge current to the battery.

 

Garry

check 9 pin connector and the fuses, When I read your earlier statement about no 12 volts to center pin, that was my first thought, you need 12 volts there to work. You can short out regulator if it does't have voltage there. hence the warning sticker on the inside of the battery tray compartment. One time I loaded one of my 520-H's on the trailer to take to the big show ran fine. once at the show when I tried to start it, it was doa. found a blown fuse, when I replaced it it blew right away. finally traced problem of short to the RR. the reason it shorted was becuase of problems getting voltage to the RR center pin. good luck

 

PS it don't hurt to have an extra new RR on hand

 

 

 

 

 

eric j     

  • Like 1
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Stanley

I just ran out to garage and rechecked it. I do have 11.9 volts from center tab to ground while running. 

I ordered 2 Caltric Rectifer Regulators this afternoon, should be later this week hopefully.

Thanks everyone

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Stanley

I ordered 2 RR from Caltric on Sunday afternoon, received them in the mail at noon on Wednesday.  I replaced the faulty RR and now have 13.9 volts on volt meter.  Now if it would quit snowing, I could go roll the lawn. 

Thanks again everyone

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
leachy

Gents Can do you have the wiring for the regulator as I have one wire going into the main block before the fuse box and it terminates there and isn't connected to anything.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Stanley

If you go to wheelhorse home page, scroll down to Wheel Horse Reference, click on Wheel Horse Manuals, then download 1985 to 2001 Riding Products Demystification Guide.

It is a great resource for troubleshooting electrical problems. Info on the 520H starts on page 7-97

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WVHillbilly520H
1 hour ago, leachy said:

Gents Can do you have the wiring for the regulator as I have one wire going into the main block before the fuse box and it terminates there and isn't connected to anything.

 

Try this all the manuals and demystification guide are here on :rs: free to download, but here's a quick pic of the wiring diagram from my owners manual, Jeff.

IMAG3111.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Ed Kennell

That is probably the trigger wire for the tach.  It uses one of the AC terminals on the RR.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...