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ebinmaine

1958 IHC Model 330 with 135 engine, Cam Replacement ??

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ebinmaine

My father has the above listed tractor and found that it had a crack in the exhaust manifold that water in the engine and froze.

 

He has come to the conclusion that the oil pump Drive gear ON the cam is sheared or broken... requiring a new cam.

ALL answers/ info are welcome!

Questions:

Overall, how much of a project is it to replace a cam?

Front suspension removal?

How much engine disassembly?

 

Do we need to replace the lifters as well as we would in a car/truck engine? (I'm thinking yes)

 

Other than the obvious cam, oil pump, and gaskets, what other parts?

 

Whatever you can tell is appreciated !!!!

 

Thanks.

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Sarge

Not sure offhand on that model,  but normally the whole nose has to come off. Front may have just a small cover for the cam drive,  or it's integrated into the block. Fairly simple but major job either way. Might want to search for the engine model number and check out the antique engine forums as well as YouTube.

 

Sarge

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WVHillbilly520H

Eric, it's been awhile since I worked at the IH dealer, but I'm thinking if you just remove the grill shell radiator (everything forward of the engine block) the hood should give plenty of room for the Cam swap which should have the lifters replaced as well as they wear to the Cam lobes individually, and I believe you should be able to drop the oil pan without removing the front axle but without seeing it I can't say for sure, Jeff.

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953 nut
7 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

found that it had a crack in the exhaust manifold that water in the engine and froze.

I may be missing something here but am not making the connection between water accumulating in the exhaust manifold and a bad gear on the cam. Please fill me in on the missing link. I would presume the distributor is also driven by the same gear, if so is it not turning?  Not doubting your dad's trouble shooting, just having difficulty wrapping my mind around this. Was the oil pan full of frozen water? If that was the case it could have broken a shear pin on the shaft to the pump.

As Jeff said it will probably only require the radiator and grill removal up front. Hood and rocker cover and arms and push rods above and oil pan below.

 

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ebinmaine
31 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

I may be missing something here

I was too at first

but am not making the connection between water accumulating in the exhaust manifold
and a bad gear on the cam. Please fill me in on the missing link.

Ran down THROUGH a cracked manifold into oil pan.

I would presume the distributor is also driven by the same gear, if so is it not turning?  Not doubting your dad's trouble shooting

(You probably should doubt it)  :D

, just having difficulty wrapping my mind around this. Was the oil pan full of frozen water?

Yes

If that was the case it could have broken a shear pin on the shaft to the pump.

I'll have him double triple check that...

 

 

Answers in BOLD above.

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WVHillbilly520H

I found a picture of a 330, don't recall ever seeing 1 at the dealership, a bit more rounded body tins than the 340 utility dad's brother has, and the X66 series that seems to be go to IHC farm tractors around here, decent utility/small acreage farm tractor definitely should be worth fixing, Jeff.

Screenshot_20180325-174205.png

Screenshot_20180325-174934.png

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ebinmaine

Yep, that's it on top Jeff. Add a bunch of rust and muck and stuff too...

 

His has a front loader and rear backhoe.

 

@953 nut, I found a pic of an engine like his for sale online. I understand that the distributor is driven off the front of the engine by way of the cam to crank gear somehow... and the oil pump is driven off the middle (ish) of the cam...  Hence no direct connection of oil pump/gear to distributor.

 

I've NEVER seen ANY engine break a cam gear instead of whatever it was driving.

 

My father said he was watching the oil level as he always does but didn't notice any water in it.

He found today, why. The dipstick does not go all the way to the bottom of the pan on this engine... but of course the oil pump pickup does... so it sucked up a bit of good ole H2O and it stayed in the pump somehow. and busticated it.

 

c135.jpg.672515452c8cb04ef733ce01b7084e71.jpg

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ebinmaine
On 3/25/2018 at 5:50 PM, WVHillbilly520H said:

I found a picture of a 330, don't recall ever seeing 1 at the dealership, a bit more rounded body tins than the 340 utility dad's brother has, and the X66 series that seems to be go to IHC farm tractors around here, decent utility/small acreage farm tractor definitely should be worth fixing, Jeff.

Screenshot_20180325-174205.png

Screenshot_20180325-174934.png

Anybody have any ideas about whether the bolt at the front of the crankshaft is Right threaded or left threaded? Or if it should or should not have Loctite or require heat to remove?

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WVHillbilly520H

Eric, never had one apart can't help you there,Jeff.

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ebinmaine
43 minutes ago, WVHillbilly520H said:

Eric, never had one apart can't help you there,Jeff.

No worries Jeff.

Thanks though.

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