44” 2 Stage skipping in heavy snow

[r1jakecfd 51]

Hi guys,

 

i have a 44” 2 stage snowblower on my 520h. I was wondering if anyone has had an issue of it feeling like it’s jumping or skipping in heavy snow? I can’t figure out if it’s the auger gear or the drive chain skipping. Obviously I’m on it when this happens so it’s tough to diagnose.

 

Thanks Guys!

[WVHillbilly520H 10,369]

Have you checked your drive chain for wear, slack and if the wooden adjustment block is worn out? Also have you checked the front auger gearbox for gear oil? 

[Kurt-NEPA 755]

I'm thinking the chain is loose too.  Possibly a badly worn tensioner block.  Its really hard to see the block.  If the chain is really that loose, I would replace the tension block.  I had trouble with mine and replaced the block with a an idler sprocket.

[r1jakecfd 51]

44 minutes ago, Kurt-NEPA said:

I'm thinking the chain is loose too.  Possibly a badly worn tensioner block.  Its really hard to see the block.  If the chain is really that loose, I would replace the tension block.  I had trouble with mine and replaced the block with a an idler sprocket.

I think you’re spot on with the chain tension. I had installed a newer block this year but the old chain had a few frozen links which I thought would free up with some oil and running it. Didn’t happen! I put a newer chain that was in good condition on but the old one has really chewed into the block. I left it a bit loose too. I bet that’s the problem. I actually make my own wear blocks from hardwood with a jigsaw. Idler pulley sounds like a great idea. I’ll update soon. Expecting 8-12” tomorrow! Where’s Spring??? Thanks Guys!

[Kurt-NEPA 755]

My idler sprocket if you decide to got that way.  You need that aluminum colored extension to clear the frame. You will need a slightly longer chain.

 

 

Also,  a new chain is cheap.  TSC had #40 chain for about $20.  Enough for two chains.

 

Good Luck with the Nor'easter.  We are only expected to get an inch or two.  No fun in that.

 

Edited March 20, 2018 by Kurt-NEPA

[r1jakecfd 51]

Great idea! I don’t know why they used those blocks as chain tensioners.

 

Thanks for sending👍

[wallfish 15,907]

This happened to me as well. Now you'll probably need to change that sprocket on the gearbox too. It's difficult to see clearly when it's all mounted but if you inspect that sprocket closely, it's probably now curved on each tooth. This will constantly cause chain slip since the rollers will ride up those curved edges. If the sprocket's teeth have sharp points on them, the sprocket is worn.

Just had to go through one and found using a half link in the chain made a big difference in how tight it is now and went with an idler sprocket instead of a block.

[r1jakecfd 51]

Thought it was tightened but clearly not! Over an inch of slack in it! I guess I’ll be ordering the idler pulley. I’ll try to get some pics of the gearbox sprocket to get everyones opinion on it’s condition.

[Kurt-NEPA 755]

Wow!, better get busy, You'll need it tomorrow.

 

[wallfish 15,907]

It appears in your pic that your tension block is on the inside loop of the chain, try moving it to the outside of the loop. That will also keep more chain in contact with the sprocket.

Removing 2 links and using a half link master should tighten the chain, worked for mine.

[Forest Road 594]

What they said!!!! A worn chain will be the down fall of most chain driven machines. It’s prone to breaking and destroying anything in its path. It wears down the drive teeth prematurely. And it wastes energy. I change mine every other year at a minimum.

 

Also after I get done using it EVERYTIME. I leave it running at idle with blower engaged. Spray chain w some wd-40 or similar product. Then I drip some chainsaw bar oil on it. Use gear lube, motor oil, etc. point is it keeps the moisture away and ready for next storm. 

[Denis L Goulet 17]

hi, again i finaly got my parts, I seperated the blower from the gear box to get the original wooden block tensioner replaced it,it was completely worn out, put it back together, then installed a new chain, the old one broke because it was riding on adjustment bracket of the block,I adjusted the chain tension to 1/2 inch, then I took it on a test blow on the lawn, it works perfectly.

 

it took me 2 weeks to figure it out thanks to you guys. I had never worked on the blower since I bought it 6 years a ago, now I know how it works, I will keep a closer look at it from now on. Thanks again.....

[WVHillbilly520H 10,369]

2 hours ago, Denis L Goulet said:

hi, again i finaly got my parts, I seperated the blower from the gear box to get the original wooden block tensioner replaced it,it was completely worn out, put it back together, then installed a new chain, the old one broke because it was riding on adjustment bracket of the block,I adjusted the chain tension to 1/2 inch, then I took it on a test blow on the lawn, it works perfectly.

 

it took me 2 weeks to figure it out thanks to you guys. I had never worked on the blower since I bought it 6 years a ago, now I know how it works, I will keep a closer look at it from now on. Thanks again.....

Don't forget to lube the chain before during and after season... https://images.app.goo.gl/fqvmWZkYQk4mKWTj9 ... https://images.app.goo.gl/uhU6WwsZzvAquD8H7 ... https://www.walmart.com/ip/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-Dry-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant-11-oz/16672659.

[peter lena 8,035]

forest road , liked your feedback on chain lubing your blower , been using LUBRIPLATE  CHAIN AND CABLE FLUID FOR YEARS ,  https://www.movingupgaragedoors.com/lubriplate-11-ounces-chain-and-cable-areosol-spray?utm_source=google_shopping&_vsrefdom=adwords&gclid=CjwKCAiA66_xBRBhEiwAhrMuLf0BCyRzabYI7kSUillkHmMGqEw_GiicGFp8fsF0t3k-8kPF4nQ7sxoCKqYQAvD_BwE. BOMBPROOF CHAIN LUBE  and rustproofing , i regularly lube down my blower drive train , it spins by hand with ease. pete

[r1jakecfd 51]

13 hours ago, peter lena said:

forest road , liked your feedback on chain lubing your blower , been using LUBRIPLATE  CHAIN AND CABLE FLUID FOR YEARS ,  https://www.movingupgaragedoors.com/lubriplate-11-ounces-chain-and-cable-areosol-spray?utm_source=google_shopping&_vsrefdom=adwords&gclid=CjwKCAiA66_xBRBhEiwAhrMuLf0BCyRzabYI7kSUillkHmMGqEw_GiicGFp8fsF0t3k-8kPF4nQ7sxoCKqYQAvD_BwE. BOMBPROOF CHAIN LUBE  and rustproofing , i regularly lube down my blower drive train , it spins by hand with ease. pete

I love it Pete! This stuff looks great! I need this for our doors at my Fire Station too. Always squeaky and blowing cables and springs! I wonder if it’s good for old, creaky   Human joints?🤣 Thanks for sharing!

[r1jakecfd 51]

18 hours ago, Denis L Goulet said:

hi, again i finaly got my parts, I seperated the blower from the gear box to get the original wooden block tensioner replaced it,it was completely worn out, put it back together, then installed a new chain, the old one broke because it was riding on adjustment bracket of the block,I adjusted the chain tension to 1/2 inch, then I took it on a test blow on the lawn, it works perfectly.

 

it took me 2 weeks to figure it out thanks to you guys. I had never worked on the blower since I bought it 6 years a ago, now I know how it works, I will keep a closer look at it from now on. Thanks again.....

That’s great to hear Denis! So when you used it on the lawn did it show any promise as a sod cutter?😂

I haven’t even started switching the parts on mine yet. I have so many projects, including a bath/kitchen remodel to do, it’s been on the back burner. Also, I need to repair the driveway too. It’s an older asphalt driveway that was never drained or laid correctly and is falling apart. The last couple of seasons were tough, picking up chunks of pavement. Not good for impellers! Been using the 48” plow. 
Let us know how the blower works in real snow. Real vids are always appreciated too!

Cheers,

John

[peter lena 8,035]

r1jakecfd, that cable lube is MADE FOR THOSE  FIRE STATION DOORS, if you get some, lubricate all related friction / motion points, you will notice and hear  a much smoother action, really elimination friction drag. as far as human joints goes, having my knees replaced over 3 years ago now , it was so worth it. had them done 6 months apart , to gain on stability, most important part?  IS REHAB , i regularly go to a rehab jym and have hundreds of hours in gaining motion control. if you don,t you will develop an infection , and blame the dr . that would be your fault. hope you try out that lube , nothing stands up like that does, pete

[peter lena 8,035]

looking at the span of the chain drop pictures , makes me think of making up a spring tension sprocket idler . i have not seen one of these 2 stage units , but i would bet that the drive chain routing could be much improved , along with primary lubrication issues. thinking j/d corn cob grease added to the mix. the stress and chain flop is an obvious design problem , has anyone else added or improved this issue, ?  i would love to look one over , pete

[wallfish 15,907]

2 hours ago, peter lena said:

looking at the span of the chain drop pictures , makes me think of making up a spring tension sprocket idler . i have not seen one of these 2 stage units , but i would bet that the drive chain routing could be much improved , along with primary lubrication issues. thinking j/d corn cob grease added to the mix. the stress and chain flop is an obvious design problem , has anyone else added or improved this issue, ?  i would love to look one over , pete

The chain loop is fairly short so there's not much room between the 2 sprockets. I chose to use a smaller 10 tooth idler sprocket on the outside of the bottom loop and supporting it up to keep more teeth engaged into the chain by the small sprocket. Also used a half link to keep the chain loop itself tighter. Never remember seeing a spring type tensioner used for roller chain

https://www.ebay.com/itm/736-IS-810-Sprocket-Idler-10-tooth-3-8-x-1-84-thick-40-41-chain/252136835235?hash=item3ab486c8a3:g:rCkAAOSwsRVb0MJ0

 

hopefully this drawing helps

 

[peter lena 8,035]

walfish, thanks for the insight. looking at the picture ,my immediate thought would be to spring pressure a  10 tooth sprocket , downward on the , chain to g/b sprocket to control the chain float.  not that is the same, but if you add an idler pulley on the large unsupported back side of a mower deck spindle ,belt drive the noise and the belt flop stops ,and smooths out. i know if i had one i would go after a chronic problem , like heavy wear on the factory tension-er. i can only imagine the wild chain flop constantly going from load, to float and gear strip, which is exactly what is happening. like a valve spring , following a camshaft , pete

[WVHillbilly520H 10,369]

1 hour ago, wallfish said:

 Also used a half link to keep the chain loop itself tighter. Never remember seeing a spring type tensioner used for roller chain

 

I don't know who's idea but I'm sure I snagged this pic from the forum (I believe it's for a motor cycle drive chain

[wallfish 15,907]

Ooooo, I like that!

 

Found it. $99 plus change the idler to #40

http://www.sevensinschoppers.com/Sprocket_Chain_Tensioner_Bolt_On_or_Weld_On_p/mc-sprocket-ct.htm

 

What about this? Lots cheaper

https://www.amazon.com/Razor-E200-Chain-Tensioner-Spring/dp/B00RW6VNP6

Edited January 26, 2020 by wallfish

[ronhatch 405]

23 hours ago, wallfish said:

 

 

Obviously, I don't have a 2 stage blower so I have to ask; Which way are the sprockets turning? If  CC, I would install the idler on the 'slack' or return side of the chain. And, yes a sprocket mounted on the outside of the chain opposed to a hardwood tensioner is much preferred.  Also r1jakecfd,  I hope you're keeping those bearings in your picture well greased.  

[wallfish 15,907]

4 hours ago, ronhatch said:

Which way are the sprockets turning?

Clock wise looking at the drawing. Any tension or guides is always best done on the slack side and not the power side. Same for belts