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ebinmaine

Can I replace my key ignition switch with an on-off switch and a momentary button?

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On the c-160 somebody replaced the o e ignition key switch with a garbage trash crap aftermarket one. It's not very old at all and already the back plastic pass spins some in the front metal case.

I don't really have security concerns here and I do have a 30 amp on off single pole single throw switch.

Are there safety concerns with running the tractor system voltage through that switch and then just installing a starter button?

I do have an old fog lamp relay I could wire in if necessary. I will not be using any incandescent hi draw lamps on this tractor.

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Go for it! Those old starter switches can't be rated 30amps for sure. (to inexpensive)

Only reason I like the key is to keep the kids from fooling around when they play around the machines.

 

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Yeah no problem go for it EB. My 702 and 753 are both (factory) like that. The 753 has a flip switch and the 702 has a key on/off switch. Those old school stomp on the floor board type switches are rated for more that 30 amps. All the older farm tractors, Farmalls, Masseys, Olivers all had them and their starters draw way more amps that our horses and some at six volts!

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Need a bit more information here. Is this a battery ignition system or Magneto? Jim's starter button will work great for either one, but the ignition/charging would differ. 

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1 minute ago, 953 nut said:

Need a bit more information here. Is this a battery ignition system or Magneto? Jim's starter button will work great for either one, but the ignition/charging would differ. 

Both of my tractors are model year 1974. Battery ignition. Points.

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11 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Both of my tractors are model year 1974. Battery ignition. Points.

 

Should not be a problem then.

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As long as you wire it up so the charging system works. 

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You will want to get a double pole single throw switch to take care of the ignition and charging.

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23 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

double pole single throw switch

Seems reasonable to me....

How about a 35 amp single pole, single throw switch feeding into a 5 or 10 slot junction/fuse holder?

I could then feed voltmeter, coil, the lead to the starter switch, a couple sets of LED lights or whatever... ?

 

In your awesome schematic you have the starter switched through the heavy gauge wire. I was going to put the switch through the existing light gauge wire that goes to the small terminal of the solenoid.

 

Should work, eh?

 

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Yes that will work as the solenoid will act like a relay and handle the current

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24 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

How about a 35 amp single pole, single throw switch feeding into a 5 or 10 slot junction/fuse holder?

I could then feed voltmeter, coil, the lead to the starter switch, a couple sets of LED lights or whatever... ?

You need the double pole switch. Once the engine is running and the charging system is operating if you turn off the single pole switch the charging system will continue to feed the ignition coil and it will continue to run.

27 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

In your awesome schematic you have the starter switched through the heavy gauge wire. I was going to put the switch through the existing light gauge wire that goes to the small terminal of the solenoid.

 

Should work, eh?

Didn't know you were keeping the solenoid, yes a light duty momentary switch will be fine.

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31 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

You need the double pole switch. Once the engine is running and the charging system is operating if you turn off the single pole switch the charging system will continue to feed the ignition coil and it will continue to run.

Gotcha.

I wondered how I'd killitt without just yankin' wires....

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3 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

I wondered how I'd killitt without just yankin' wires

I usually don't worry about that when rustlin :ph34r:.....just let em go till they run out of gas!:ROTF:

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7 hours ago, WHX14 said:

...just let em go till they run out of gas!

A bit more time consuming but effective. 

 

 

1 hour ago, OILUJ52 said:

Why switch the charging circuit?

 

I'm NO expert but I do know you need to cut the curcuit between regulator and coil or it won't shut off. 

 

My thought is:

What is  the non-hot terminal  of a manual switch connected to? 

 

Is the ignition switch ONLY a connector between Regulator, coil, lights, etc. .. can the single pole switch connect regulator on one terminal to battery, coil on the other? 

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2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Is the ignition switch ONLY a connector between Regulator, coil, lights, etc. .. can the single pole switch connect regulator on one terminal to battery, coil on the other?

You could make it look like a NASCAR dash and have a separate

switch for everything.

Image result for nascar dashboard switches

2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

What is  the non-hot terminal  of a manual switch connected to?

If you have an "A" terminal it can go to charging and lights.

3 hours ago, OILUJ52 said:

Why switch the charging circuit?

 

If you don't switch off the charging and it is connected directly to the battery there will be a parasitic draw that will kill the battery.

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