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By The Gman
Finished up work on the A800 ranger. Time to figure out the c120.
The ranger got;
Complete rewire. 👍
Re-timed and a new head gasket.👍
Carb rebuild. 👍
Full service. 👍
My daughter is gonna use it this year. She has just under 1/2 an acre to cut.
Now the challenge is the c120. Picked this up in Jan. Price was right and I was really just after the motor but the rest of it just had to come home too. Not sure if it's all there but the fun will be in finding out. So far I figure a broken clutch pedal and one rotted tire. The po had already taken it apart to restore but other things got in the way. The motor is stout and roars like a tiger.
I'm gonna put it all back together first...... fix what I find then tear down to restore.
It's the transmission I don't know about. Po said it works fine......... Hmmmmm.
Don't know much about them at the moment but "forum" research ans help here I come!!!
Transaxle oil is low but clean and the tow valve doesn't look like it's been loosened for a while. The frame sat outside for a year.
Thought I might change the oil and run it with an electric motor to see?????
The axles are free and smooth.
Anything I should be careful of?????
This is my first post. Several years ago I bought a c120 auto and have used it to mow and snowplow with great success. The other night in the midst of a snow storm I was in a hurry to get going, and didn't check the oil and didn't give the engine enough time to warm up. Result seems to be a broken connecting rod, since it cranks now much faster than it did before and won't start when it was a terrific starter before.
So I'm looking for ways to repair the damage I've done. I really love the tractor, comparing it to modern ones that feel like tin foil convinces me that I want to fix this iron horse.
I am in southwest Michigan, and looking for help.
thanks in advance.
Hi, hoping someone can help. I'm over in France trying to tidy up my place before the winter so do not have all the tools I have back at home. I have a separate problem with the gear box but have posted separately.
Back in July when l last used the tractor it was loosing power when it got hot, and looking on the internet it appeared that the coil may be the problem.
i have just returned to France and brought a new coil with me and replaced the old one. This coil has a separate ballast resistor attached. The tractor started first go and I started to cut the grass but with gearbox problems. The grass was long and thick in places and the tractor coped well, just heading the governor apply a bit more power in places. Them after about half an hour the engine lost power and there were some visible flames commons ftom the exhaust.
can any one tell me what is happening here. I assume that it is heat related because the engine started first go and then ran well. But it must have been fully up to temperature long before this loss of power. Seeing flames from the exhaust indicates that the fuel is not being burnt in the cylinder, is this an ignition problem? Or are the valve not shutting properly an the fuel is just being pushed straight out of the engine?
I'm sure it would look quite cool after dark, but with no power the grass will keep growing. Hop some one can help.
So this is my man's @Rp.wh12 hp '68? Raider that had a little mishap at my recent plow event. Good news here is the block was not ventilated so we think with a little coin and some greasy hands this motor can be saved. It seems that when a rod goes it will either punch the block or go the other way to the cam. Which is what it did breaking the cam. Note the indent on the fuel pump lobe where something wacked it. Piston shirt was busted up pretty good as it looks like the piston was slammed down on the crank. Wrist pin was ovaled and the whole bottom of the piston was mashed. This was done under a full load of dirt and plowing. @PeacemakerJack claims to have a video of when it went so perhaps he'll share here.
I chewed my man's rear out about it running it low on low oil and tipped over in the furrow but he swears he topped it off before the day. I dunno but but not much oil came out and what did was sludge. Regardless damage is done so let's just fix it. New 10 over piston with rings is in order along with a new cam and 10 under rod. Bore is clean and not tapered so a std. piston and rings might be fitted in but is getting close to max out of tolerance so might as do it right. Obviously suffering from some low end lubrication issues.