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I wouldn't hit that deck with a needle scaler unless it's a really light duty one - that deck is going to need some large patches from all the thin spots. I'd have it blasted or do it yourself if you can - then start patching. Patience is key - as well as a lot of time.

 

Sarge

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On 2/18/2018 at 4:52 PM, pfrederi said:

Plot Thickens...30538 is a Service engine.  However Kohler parts shows it came with a 15 amp system.. Wonder if a stator was replaced if you have only one wire and no regulator??

 

On 2/18/2018 at 4:40 PM, pfrederi said:

Based on the engine color this is not the original engine.  Your comment about the lack of a voltage regulator got me thinking.  You said you measured voltage from the stator.  Was their only one wire or were there two. The original engine would have had a 15 amp system.  There would have been two white wires from the stator and they should output at least 30 volts AC at speed.  That would go to the regulator and be changed to 14 volts +/- DC.  Now if this is replacement engine it may have the 3 amp unregulated charging system...only one wire from stator with a diode inline turning out 13-14v DC and would explain why the regulator was removed. 

 

Thanks again for watching the video and commenting Paul; You've undoubtedly saved me some head-scratchin'!

 

The charging system is back up-and-running with the magnets glued in the proper order (N-S-N | S-N-S, etc.).

 

I'm getting over 36VAC @ 3600RPM despite the stator having 0.4Ohm resistance (versus a spec of 0.1-0.2Ohm per service manual).  

 

The ammeter is swinging positive on the drained battery and approaches zero as it becomes fully charged.

 

The rectifier / regulator was indeed shot (even with the case was grounded directly to the engine block)...

 

...So I didn't throw my hard-earned cabbage away on an unnecessary part afterall!

 

The new rectifier/regulator getting over 14VDC output.

QgxZcWB.jpg

 

 

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Glad to hear it worked out . The reason I run a separate ground wire is to prevent the ground loop in the chassis from causing corrosion - it will get to those regulators sooner or later.

 

Sarge

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Yesterday... after taking a burn in the driveway (test the charging system & seat the new head gasket).

  • i noticed that my front wheel assembly is a little pigeon-toed
  • There's clearly some play in the steering assembly... some from the "sunrise" gear. 

After a little garage-time this afternoon, i observed: 

  • The wheel bearings are in various stages of disrepair... 3 of 4 have noticeable wear.  Where are you guys sourcing these? 
  • One of the spindle arms has more angle-of-separation between the axle & tie-rod tab.... IMO, the main source of the difference in wheel toe
  • An adjustable tie-rod should be able to compensate for the toe difference...or find another pair of front spindles.  EDIT: these are more common than I thought: 2-New-OEM-Toro-Wheel-Horse-Tie-Rod-Assembly-Ball-Joints  ($50 is a little salty but comes w/ ball joints too... I'll just have to start pimping this machine out to the neighbors! :lol:)
  • I have about 1/16" of play in the front-axle / spindle.  Typical?  I saw in another thread that guys are sizing-up the holes & installing bushings.

 

Edited by classiccat
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On 2/18/2018 at 8:00 PM, 953 nut said:

:text-coolphotos:             Check the drive belt, a rubber belt will grab, fabric covered (Kevlar) works well.

 

Less cool photos but :wh: photos nonetheless.

 

It might be the original WH drive belt...however the kevlar covering appears smooth/worn. Otherwise the belt is in great shape.  (Even WH belts are tough as nails!)

 

Old belt in the back (still installed) and the new OEM 7473 replacement in the foreground:

BQYVvoc.jpg

 

 

wqCQxIk.jpg

 

I have the engine tins & ignition coil off for painting... I should see if she still tries to buck me out of the saddle in H-3 this weekend!

 

 

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Posted (edited)

1 Month update on the ol' C85.

bcLDSAC.jpg

 

Tractor:

  • I ordered 4 Flange bearings for the front wheels (3/4" x 1-3/8") from BMI.  1 was the wrong size so I replaced the wonky driver's side only for now.  Man!  what a difference in handling already!.  They're double-sealed so I guess that zerk is going to get bored.
  • Adjustable tie rods are ordered. You should be able to get away with one adjustable; I ordered 2 mainly for the new/fresh ball joints.
  • The new belt was the ticket for smoothing out that clutch...no more whiplash in H3.

Engine:

  • We got rid of the mickey mouse paint job on the engine tins.  No Kohler-K deserves to look like it did.
  • I learned that my Hardline tachs can be re-programmed to interpret RPMs for spark on every-other-revolution from our cam-triggered Kohlers.  (default setting is for wasted-spark crank-triggered engines).

8FxA48J.jpg

 

Idling at a cool 1200:

x57DfcL.jpg

 

WOT:

EHNb82r.jpg


Decisions, Decisions!

The tractor runs / handles really well!  So I'm struggling with the decision whether or not to start the tear-down for a full restoration now or wait a season when I have fewer projects.

 

If anything sways me, it's the Mickey-mouse paintjob on the hood.   

 

Hang with me folks, we'll get it sorted! :thanks:

Edited by classiccat
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10 hours ago, classiccat said:

struggling with the decision whether or not to start the tear-down for a full restoration now or wait a season when I have fewer projects.

 

If anything sways me, it's the Mickey-mouse paintjob on the hood.   

Sorta sounds like you answered your own question there. 

IMHO:

Easy enough to pop the hood off and paint it. ... use the tractor for the season. ...then do the rest when you have more time. 

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10 hours ago, classiccat said:

Hang with me folks.....

Thanks for taking us along! 

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Tear down began this morning.

 

2 questions related to controls...

 

AjGQtks.jpg

 

1st question: Am I correct to assume that there is a center cap to this steering wheel that pops off?

I started prying a little without a budge so I figure i better ask 1st before going all-in!

I was able to drive-out the roll-pin using a riveting hammer (@ 70psi) & pin punch.

9Xb8sYs.jpg

 

2nd question: are these throttle / choke handles normally embedded in some kind of adhesive?  This guy appears to have been epoxied on:

xpFFrHK.jpg

 

thanks for stoppin' by the thread!

 

 

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Been following.  Fine thread. Just wanted to add my 2 cents that these are great tractors! All the horsepower needed for a 36" deck or a 48" dozer blade for snow.  One awesome snow pusher with chains!   Maybe with even more weight more hp might handy but it's amazing how well just 8 hp can clear a driveway!  I run out of steering before I run out of rear traction. 

Great little tractors!  Right now I use mine more than any other tractor. 

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5 hours ago, DennisThornton said:

amazing how well just 8 hp can..........

Agreed  !!!!

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5 hours ago, classiccat said:

Steering wheel.......better ask 1st before going all-in!

I cant answer having never removed one myself but I  understand the steering wheel is often the bane of our existence. 

Others will tell you how to remove it.

Just be very very very patient.

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Deconstruction continues...

rYVm8nF.jpg

 

I was tempted to strap the motor, seat and clutch back-on for another burn around the block!

m3urHuu.jpg

 

 

j25yqBY.jpg

 

Everything came apart with relative ease (minimal swearing) except...

RRwu61j.jpg

^^^ I've got that torqued down pretty good with some ATF/Acetone pooled-up in the cavity that I hogged-out.

 

Almost ready for paint prep... as long as I don't crack that perfectly fine gear case open :auto-driving:

 

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Posted (edited)

I was able to get those stingy throttle / choke knobs off without any hurt feelings...

 

the trick was carefully (!) kissing the metal with a torch (protecting the plastic with a plumbing flame pad), I was able to pull & separate the assembly.

 

7r2Br4k.jpg

^^^ those suckas were on there tight!  map was obviously overkill...propane or even butane would be a little more appropriate ...but a win is a win  AMIRIGHT???! :lol:

Edited by classiccat
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Now for the fun part.

 

From what I gather, steering wheel removal is an unspoken Rite of RedSquare Passage.

 

I couldn't deal with using penetrant without any heat. 

 

So I flipped the console so I could heat the steering shaft (within reason...stop when the oil starts to smoke)... this seems bass-ackwards but i convinced myself that will heat the wheel ring which will cool slower than the shaft.  

0Gpif6k.jpg

 

after a week of mild heating / soaking... KABOOM on the press

eYHiDlS.jpg

 

it's these little victories that keep these projects fun!

0XmSqso.jpg

 

j4fqD5F.jpg

 

There's a great tutorial right here on RS by MikesRJ for restoring the control panel. 

 

But before I start, I need to remove the warp from the plastic...

 

I watched a few u-tube vids on flattening plastic with a heatgun... I'll try this from the backside and let you know how it goes.

 

thanks for stopping by the thread!

 

 

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2 hours ago, classiccat said:

flipped the console so I could heat the steering shaft

That is the way I have done it. Heat the shaft a couple of inches away from the wheel then apply a liberal amount of paraffin or oil. After it has cooled the shaft should come out a whole lot easier.

2 hours ago, classiccat said:

steering wheel removal is an unspoken Rite of RedSquare Passage

:text-yeahthat:            congratulations!      :text-welcomeconfetti:

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Did you get a rebuilt kit for your C-85? I am looking for a reliable place to get a kit. Several places only deal in 13+ hp. Any reference is appreciated.

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Posted (edited)
12 hours ago, Jim H said:

Did you get a rebuilt kit for your C-85? I am looking for a reliable place to get a kit. Several places only deal in 13+ hp. Any reference is appreciated.

 

Hi Jim H, welcome to Red Square!  

 

I assume you mean a rebuild kit for the K181.  I haven't actually done a full tear-down of the engine (only the upper half).  I ordered all gaskets/hardware piece-by-piece from wherever I could find it (amazon, fleabay, partstree, etc.).  I'm a little picky when it comes to head gaskets... make sure they have a compression ring.  The 1st one (OEM!) didn't have it.  The Stens one (465-310) I ordered did...go figure!

 

 It already has a 0.030" piston in it.  Fortunately it only smokes at start-up...probably due in large part from me using 5W30 syn.

Edited by classiccat

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