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Similar Content
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By Jeff_B
Where's your go-to source for QUALITY 103119 bearing shaft assemblies? Also, I don't have my deck apart yet, but seem to remember they're tough to remove from the housings. Any tips or tricks? Finally, just recently I've had a couple of the center bearings go loose on two different decks. Once is one thing, but twice? More than a coincidence? Should I be releasing tension on the belt by loosening the mule drive when not in use? We've had WH tractors for over 40+ years and I've never done that before! THANKS in advance!
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By RichInWalworth
Question. I have a 1990 single stage snow thrower for my 312-8. I am trying to replace the bearings on the drive shaft. How do you remove them? I have taken out the set screw, soaked the collar in pb blaster, put some heat to them, pounded on them. etc. They will not move. Am I missing something? The only thing that is curious is, there is only one set screw in each bearing collar. There appears to be a second partially drilled hole but no set screw installed and it does not appear to be tapped. What gives???
Rich In Walworth
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By IthacaJeff
Hi folks:
The wheel bearings in one of the front wheels of my 416-8 imploded the other day while mowing. 32 years old, I'm not complaining. Anyway, with the advice of another thread I picked up a set of 4 flanged bearings off an ebay seller. . .3/4" ID, 1 3/8" OD. Problem is they are a loose fit in the wheel hub. I should need to tap them in, but they just slide in and out. No real play, but they can just fall out. The insides of the hubs are clearly worn. Any advice on snugging up the bearings"
Thanks,
J
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By porschpow
Good Morning everybody!
I am in the process of sharpening the blades for my mowing deck (Model 78360 - Serial 7904987) and I noticed that the deck has a crack in it right where the bracket to the mounting hardware (to the tractor) is. SO I know I have to get that repaired.
But while I was at this, I thought I could do a good quick once over on the deck to make sure I am ready for the season.
What I would like to do is the following:
Change the bearings for the spindles (or pack them with more grease)
Get new rear tires (since they squeak)
And that's about it
If anyone here thinks I should do anything else, I would love to hear it!
Where does everyone get the hardware (bearings, wheels for these rebuilds?)
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By Sarge
Fast question ...
Per the IPL for the 6-1141 and 6-1131 54" & 56" blades - how is everyone pinning the rear blade lock arms so they can't unlock the blade ? I've ran into problems with this thing before wanting to unlock itself and drop the blade half off the tractor. It seems when back dragging rough pavement, especially if I back into a snow bank the thing is moving those locks out of position and allowing the frame to drop off. The only reason it stays at least somewhat under the D is the lift arm , but getting it back into position is no fun due to the weight of this thing and especially out in the snow/cold weather. Last time I had to drag the thing back to a clear area so I could wrestle it back into position, lift the frame and lock it again. I did wire them shut for now, but don't trust it and I use it to back drag quite a bit on rough areas I don't want to ram the cutting edge against and risk damaging the rear axle differential or anything else. Mine has been rebuilt with a new cutting edge of 1055HC and the frame is highly beefed up - most of it is now boxed in and the thing has gained nearly 50lbs of steel. It cuts great, almost too good but that random dropping it off is starting to irritate me - need some ideas here...
The smaller 42" and other frames lock from the other direction - so to speak. The brackets are also drilled to accept large hair pin cotters to keep those locks in place - I see no way the bigger blade frame is designed for that, unless I'm missing something ?
Sarge
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