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By MS GENERAL REPAIR
Good Morning Ladies & Gents;
I operate a Small Engine & Power Equipment Repair Shop From my home in Bridgeport, Ct.
Yesterday I started repairs on a 1984 +- Wheel Horse C-145 Automatic Lawn & Garden Tractor.
I decided this would be a good candidate for a repair video series on my new Youtube channel. Since the repairs on this tractor are not the usual carb cleaning & belt replacements.
Someone suggested that the Wheel Horse enthusiasts on this site might find this information useful and I hope that's the case.
Problems I'm aware of and being addressed include........... Motion Works Linkages, Hydraulic Implement Controls, Brakes & Parking Brake, Mower Blade Mounting, and whatever else I find as repairs progress.
Repair Video's have been a tremendous help to me on all types of things that I don't have a service manual for, and if this helps someone then the effort will be well worth it.
As I post this there are 4 video's in the series. More will be added in the coming days.
If you find the video's helpful please like, comment & subscribe, so I can mold the channel into a useful resource. It takes a lot of extra time to video document repairs, so it's good to know if it's worth it.
This Tractor belongs to a repair client and is Not For Sale
Good Luck With Your Repair Projects..........................Mike
Just brought her home an hour ago! Ran it through the paces and everything checks out! Now shes coming in the shop to get a good tune up, the Bolens plow taken off and replaced, fluids change, some rewiring, a motor cleaning and a couple of new gaskets, and a good carb cleaning. And maybe some fuel lines. 😁 This is my first hydro so its taking some getting used too. LOVE the hydraulic lift though! Dont know how I lasted this long without one!
By Petes Horse
Getting my mess of a d160 rebuilt and found the source of play in my steering.
This may also explain the oddball rim.
Bottom race. Or is it races now?
-----------------------If you don't like modded OEM parts go no further, there be carnage ahead!----------------------------------------
So I went on a hunt for a replacement. Wow those are expensive. No standard bearings even close.
Turns out 3/4 x 1-3/8 x 1/2 wheel bearings fit perfect because of their flange. Well almost. The ID is a little off.
Adjustment needed. I already ground the lip off. I believe the lips were to hold the bearings for assembly.
The flange of the bearing sits nicely in the adjustment cup.
Looking down into the cup with bearing in it. Flange side down.
Worm alignment with sealed bearing in cup on left. Same as new.
The cotter pin hole doesn't line up but there is enough room to drill a new one.
End view with bearing installed.
To install both top and bottom bearings you have to grind or turn a good portion of the shaft and the lip on the other side.
It's only .030 so not to bad.
Both bearings installed. Fit nicely against the shoulder of the race on the worm.
Worm alignment with both bearings installed. Old outer races removed. tightened snug. Still has full travel and is more centered.
No way to install cotter pin. but my alignment cup was so tight it will not come loose. I'm lucky I got it out.
End cap with both bearings installed.
Hi-tech cap removal tool one ground down wood bit.
The sealed bearings sit up against the shoulder of the race and the bearing flanges face away from the worm.
The flange may need adjusting depending on who made it. There is no inner seal so it can be greased like usual.
I'm not sure how they will hold up to thrust loads but for 6 bucks I'll risk it.
I didn't grind near the original races at all so it can be put back to original if need be, minus some metal anyway.
Welp, back to painting parts.......