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moe1965

1974 raider 12. Lights will not work

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moe1965

I'm trying to figure out why I have no power to my lights.  I just bought this tractor and I'm knit picking it.  I'm thinking the ignition switch is not working properly.  The engine starts up and turns off no issues. But I have no power to the lights.  The light switch is good bulbs are good and it had a good ground to the bulbs.   I have a replacement switch but I don't think it is correct for this tractor unless I switch the wires around in the plug that plugs into the ignition switch.  Not sure what all the initials stand for on the back of the switch.  G. Is ground. S is starter?  Not sure on the rest.  There are no markings on the switch I'm trying to replace.  I found a wire diagram on this sight but there are different letters on the back of the ignition switch.  Any help would be appreciated.  I don't want to burn anything up.  Thanks. All

20180207_183103.jpg

Screenshot_20180207-183524.png

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SylvanLakeWH

Fuses? are all good?

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gwest_ca

The M in the photo is for magneto ignition.

The I on the 103990 switch is for battery ignition.

The Raider 12 model name was last used in 1972 for North America. It did continue in Europe for a few more years.

In 1974 a 12hp tractor would be a C-120.

 

Have a model and serial number off the tractor ID plate?

What type of ignition do you have and what shape is the ignition coil?

 

Garry

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gwest_ca

The switch in the photo may be similar to a Stens 430-538

 

You can see the application list here

https://www.bantasaw.com/catalog/viewproduct.asp?i=&p=1333

 

430-538.jpg

After all that this switch is in our own files

Garry

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moe1965

Here is the model and serial number.  I didn't see any in line fuses to check.  It has a Koehler 301 s engine. I'm assuming the coil is fine the engine runs great has no issues starting or running

20180207_192318.jpg

Edited by moe1965
Added more information

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953 nut

You have a 1973 12 HP "no Name".

 

 

According to the manual you should have an ignition coil and points and the switch you are holding is not correct.

Your lights are powered through a fuse coming from the "A": terminal.

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"Manic-Mechanic"

Hello,

      I had this issue many times, found the rusty metal prohibited the "good ground", So, if you have power from your ignition circuit, regardless of I or L, whatever, definitely run a fresh ground to the negative battery post, "temporary", test the circuit?:twocents-02cents:Oh, and the magneto ignition and battery ignitions are identically made inside, just different lettering, there is an update from Toro on this very subject......

 

 

Oldman

Edited by Oldman
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gwest_ca

The original switch would have had 4 key positions Off, Ignition plus accessories, Ignition only and Start.

Garry

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"Manic-Mechanic"

This is the update on the four position ignition, I thought someone gave me this on here?

Switch Ignition 92-6785 A.jpg

Switch Ignition 92-6785 B.jpg

 

"sorry didn't see the prior post".

 

4 minutes ago, Oldman said:

This is the update on the four position ignition, I thought someone gave me this on here?

Switch Ignition 92-6785 A.jpg

Switch Ignition 92-6785 B.jpg

 

"sorry didn't see the prior post".

 

I believe it was Gary, great guide by the way.......

Edited by Oldman
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ohiofarmer

 On one of my Horses, the wire from the 'A" terminal has an inline fuse on it. That line ran to the lights and it looked original. The fuse was sort of out of the way behind the dash  and on its way to the connector..  Even that connector could be a trouble spot on a tractor this old.

 

 Really, i have no way to know for sure if the thing was original as I do not hold a candle to the guru's on this forum. This tractor also has an added electric fuel pump on that circuit --definitely not original

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moe1965

Thanks for all info from everyone.  I'll pull the tank off this weekend and get my hands in there and poke around. I did see a in line  connector in there but I assumed it was just a quick disconnect.  Hopefully it is a fuse holder and that is my issue.  I'll keep you all informed what I find.  Thanks again john

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moe1965

issue salved.  I feel stupid. using the diagram that was sent to me i did find a wire terminal that was broken on the positive side of the solenoid . I started tracing wires and figured out that the lights did not work in the run position. I moved it to the run accessory position  and got power.  i thought that the lights would have power in both positions. lesson learned.  there is no inline fuse so im going to put one in just because. thanks for all your help. john

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