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Does anybody have a good source for replacement front wheel bearings for a mid to late 1970's D160 wheel horse tractor? There are two push in bearing units (inner and outer) per wheel. I first attempted to replace with standard bearings but quickly found out these are not standard sizes. It's been a while since I check and I don't completely remember, but I think the wheelhorse bearings where something like 1/16" of an inch larger OD than a standard catalog bearing. At the time, I remember finding bearings but they wanted somthing like $100 for each bearing. I was able to located two bearings and did purchase them for a reasonible price, but am still looking for two for completing the set. The part numbe ron the two that I was able to locate is 104396. If anybody has any ideas, I would appreciate.
Fast question ...
Per the IPL for the 6-1141 and 6-1131 54" & 56" blades - how is everyone pinning the rear blade lock arms so they can't unlock the blade ? I've ran into problems with this thing before wanting to unlock itself and drop the blade half off the tractor. It seems when back dragging rough pavement, especially if I back into a snow bank the thing is moving those locks out of position and allowing the frame to drop off. The only reason it stays at least somewhat under the D is the lift arm , but getting it back into position is no fun due to the weight of this thing and especially out in the snow/cold weather. Last time I had to drag the thing back to a clear area so I could wrestle it back into position, lift the frame and lock it again. I did wire them shut for now, but don't trust it and I use it to back drag quite a bit on rough areas I don't want to ram the cutting edge against and risk damaging the rear axle differential or anything else. Mine has been rebuilt with a new cutting edge of 1055HC and the frame is highly beefed up - most of it is now boxed in and the thing has gained nearly 50lbs of steel. It cuts great, almost too good but that random dropping it off is starting to irritate me - need some ideas here...
The smaller 42" and other frames lock from the other direction - so to speak. The brackets are also drilled to accept large hair pin cotters to keep those locks in place - I see no way the bigger blade frame is designed for that, unless I'm missing something ?
Since I've finally got some time with this D and not puking oil all over itself it's time to address a few small issues . Biggest one right now is how that blade engages the ground - it always wants to sit a few inches lower on the right side and always puts more force on that side as well . When I rebuilt the frame I made certain it was squared and flat to the head part and the blade - it still measures out perfectly with the rear mount and the blade's cutting edge staying on the same plane . But , trying to do light grading work and leveling material it always wants to cut more on that right side - I suspect part of this is the weight of that handle , the solid steel cross shafts and sub frame for the whole assembly . With those parts previously cut loose I was quite surprised at just how heavy that stuff was - probably close to 35lbs of steel . With that weight hanging off one side of the frame I suspect that's the root cause of the issue - anyone got an opinion on this or ran across the same issue ?
I've considered either adding weight to the left side of the blade or maybe add a spring to the frame to help correct it - what have others done or am I by myself on this , lol ??
Ok - the UL-1 batteries won't cut it for turning over the big cast iron Kohler twins - got one that is only 6mo old and it's basically shot already . One start cycle and if it doesn't fire it's done - needs to be jumped . Since it's mounted above the Sundstrand pump and so close to that thumper engine I'd assume the vibration is just killing the plates . At a rate of 2 batteries per year - that doesn't work out very well and the rotating mass of that engine just draws far too much from the battery - even with a new starter .
From the BCI group number chart and some dimensions of what can fit in the tractor physically I come up with a Group 26 battery - what is everyone using in their twin cylinder D's ??
I see an equivalent Deka runs about $80 - anyone tried that size on one of these D's ...?
What started out as a simple task of moving my 6-1/2' x 12' utility trailer to unload it's contents back into the Shed Repair Project after building a new floor turned out to be a really bad day . I figured the weight of the trailer and it's load was probably around 2,500lbs or more and the big D-180 should be able to handle it . Used the 3pt hitch and an adapter to lift the trailer tongue and off I went...until I got to the end of the north drive and the pump coupling on the hydro failed - badly . In hindsight - the trailer probably weighed closer to 4,000lbs the way it felt behind the truck ...
Now , the trailer had to be taken off the tractor and put on it's jack ....which didn't work out too well loaded that heavily . Since the trailer was built with 2x3 angle iron on the tongue it decided to fold itself into a pretzel - despite the wheels being blocked tight so it couldn't move . It fell over and I had to use the HI-Lift to get it off the ground . The sight of the trailer falling over in the rear view camera on the Dodge is still well embedded in my memory - I knew that was going to be another large project .
The coupling had an earlier repair from last winter's failure - so a pto pin was driven through the hole to get it out back to my work area to be fixed later . It made the short trip , but just barely and the tow valve was frozen tightly . As it turned out , the damage to the D was a much bigger issue..and cost 3 times as much in total .
The pic doesn't do the damage any justice - that entire tongue was bent badly -
Sand blasted , new tongue built and waiting for paint -
Painted , as it sits now awaiting the lights , wiring and re-install the floor decking .
All the while - got more work done on the D's pump problem . Found a great used pump , as well as a spare coupling in good shape . After a lot of machine work ($$$) we came up with a solution and everything was back together...
After all this I found that both the original mufflers were completely shot and falling apart - so another project ...
Bought a pair of 180* mandrel bends , two cone transitions and a pair of @jimkemp 8" mufflers (very nice, btw) . Fabricated the flanges for the engine's exhaust ports , as well as the pipes for the stacks -
Spent a lot of time rolling the engine over on the starter to slowly prime the pump back up and finally , after several months - fired Big Ugly to test the exhaust before painting the stacks . No leaks from the hydro thanks to some new o-rings and backer rings from @pfrederi on the hydro manifold , that was a big relief .
A bit shocked at the sound of the big opposed twin - somewhat like a Harley running on the choke or something - but overall not obnoxious or too loud ....
If you don't want to wait for the MP4 to load - here's the YouTube link -
I don't think the camera's microphone will show the sound too well , but so far I like it . Took a ride around the block , nice having this beast back up and running , finally . Now to finish that dumb trailer....pretty much wasted nearly the whole summer getting all of this done plus the hours at work . I'm about ready for a break but need to get ready for winter .