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ebinmaine

'74 C160-8 Restomodification in Process

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It doesn't look like they are burnt to me. Think that I would try cleaning them, then check/reset the gap. Clean them with paper once more after checking the gap, just in case your feeler gage leaves some residue behind.

 

 

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Most likely they can be cleaned - but will probably reveal a nice large pitted area in the center as most do. Cleaning them helps, but if pitted they won't last long before doing it again. That corrosion is typical and it's from tiny pieces of the material burning off and getting stuck to the surface. Good quality points are about non-existent, even the Kohler made ones aren't what they used to be for sure. I miss the days of Napa's good Echlin points - especially the Gold series when I ran the old dual point Chrysler distributor in my 440, that would fire instantly. I haven't looked for awhile now, but some pulling parts guy had sourced some really high quality points for those that didn't want electronic types - can't remember who it was now but I had bought several big block Kohler sets to keep on hand - out of them now. We always used to spend the time to square the contacts to each other - it helps to keep the timing from wandering - not a real big issue on a single cylinder old Kohler.

 

I would at minimum replace the cover gasket and that grommet - both are available from Kohler new. Keeps the moisture out - that kills points quickly.

 

Sarge

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26 minutes ago, Achto said:

It doesn't look like they are burnt to me. Think that I would try cleaning them, then check/reset the gap. Clean them with paper once more after checking the gap, just in case your feeler gage leaves some residue behind.

 

 

Will do Dan .

 

@Sarge. I have a full gasket set coming in today. ..I'll check for those. 

Thanks guys. 

 

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Points were made with carbide contacts years ago, maybe they have lowered the grade on the carbide now, I don't know. Do not think I have bought  more than five or six sets for Kohlers since '65 or whenever I got into small engines on my own. I've changed more condensers,  & had several coils go bad, and thinking very seriously about trying a "hotrod" coil. 

 

 The point cover gasket will come in a gasket set, but I have always had to order the wire grommet special.

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1 minute ago, R. L. Addison said:

 The point cover gasket will come in a gasket set, but I have always had to order the wire grommet special.

:text-yeahthat:

 

:handgestures-thumbupright:  Likely I'll sploooge it with a bit "o silly-cone.

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Most, if not all,  have a tiny vent hole toward the bottom of the cover, be sure not to cover it, as I have had them "sweat":inside. Not the best scenario.

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6 minutes ago, R. L. Addison said:

Most, if not all,  have a tiny vent hole toward the bottom of the cover, be sure not to cover it, as I have had them "sweat":inside. Not the best scenario.

:thanks:

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No time to work on the  C yesterday but I did get a couple interesting packages in the mail......

 

20180205_163431.jpg.d4af6ecf16ad0c3c0c8507699a9ea26a.jpg

 

Looks like this 'll work great !!

 

Thanks Josh  !!

 

 

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I’m glad it made it safely to you. Once  you get to painting stuff, you’ll have to figure out if you will paint it red like factory or leave it black, or even paint it another accent color.  Plenty of time for that though...

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3 minutes ago, PeacemakerJack said:

Once  you get to painting stuff,

Yeah. I don't think I'm going to paint this one until next winter. Never know though.

I put the b80 paint job on hold for a few months because of weather, and this project.

My honey has been working on a sanding and refinishing of an antique oak table that was badly damaged. It's coming out absolutely amazing. Couple nights ago she says to me - maybe I could paint your tractor? Oh boy oh boy oh boy oh boy.

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3 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

My honey has been working on a sanding and refinishing of an antique oak table that was badly damaged. It's coming out absolutely amazing. Couple nights ago she says to me - maybe I could paint your tractor?...

That would be a super neat couple project!  If you guys decide to do that together, I want to see some :text-coolphotos: of her working on the sheet metal and paint.  

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2 minutes ago, PeacemakerJack said:

That would be a super neat couple project!  If you guys decide to do that together, I want to see some :text-coolphotos: of her working on the sheet metal and paint.  

You bet !!

 

I asked her - have you ever used an auto body grinder? She seems pretty interested!

We might be able to make this happen.

:handgestures-fingerscrossed:

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best way to get them to understand what goes into this hobby..... get them involved. Mine likes the tractors but don't know if she would want to work on them. We'll see when we get to the 417 she has claimed as the one she wants.

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On 2/6/2018 at 8:04 AM, 19richie66 said:

best way to get them to understand what goes into this hobby..... get them involved. Mine likes the tractors but don't know if she would want to work on them. We'll see when we get to the 417 she has claimed as the one she wants.

My connection to Wheel Horse isn't quite to hobby level. ....yet. ....

 

We got one tractor because of necessity. I got the other one because I really like the first one and wanted something a little stronger.

I'll get there. ..sometime. 

Someone on here said they could definitely justify ...1 tractor per Implement.

 

I'm going  to go with that.

 

My honey claims she's not specifically interested in tractors, although she has admitted the first vintage Rangers were - cute -.

 

She's definitely a Hands-On type person and very much into improving things and working on stuff in general. You think I'm going to take advantage of that? Well yeah!

 

 

Edited by ebinmaine
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Got the carb in the mail today. The main butterfly binds just a bit in the bore so I  got out the hobby files and gave it a bit more freedom. 

You can see a small spot on the "floor" to the left of the shaft that was a rub point. 

I'm thinking I may remove the butterfly and fine sand the bore to smooth it out. 

 

 

1517967753715-1468133876.jpg.9e0043bfdbc797bdc4c83b753f7c8af9.jpg

 

Also, the screws on both butterflies are only held in with lock washers. No locktite. I'll be adding that before installation as well. 

Edited by ebinmaine
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:rolleyes: Did you look in the fuel bowl yet?

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30 minutes ago, AMC RULES said:

:rolleyes: Did you look in the fuel bowl yet?

Yep. Some filings in there from my fiddling but otherwise looks good.

I'll throw a little carb clean through the passages. 

 

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30 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Yep. Some filings in there from my fiddling but otherwise looks good.

I'll throw a little carb clean through the passages. 

 

Compressed air too if you have it ...

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Make sure to look closely at the back side of those butterfly valve's screws - almost all carburetors the screws have been staked on the back side of the shaft to prevent them getting ingested into the engine if they work loose. If you have a Dremel - get a carbide burr for it and cut the excess part of the screw off before removing them or they can strip the shaft hole threads out. On some that I don't have the correct screws in stock since I worked on Weber carbs for years as well as been a mechanic you can re-stake them once you get the valve properly centered. I usually just put a good center punch in the vise, put the tips of the screws against it and give them a decent rap with a pin punch or opposite with the pin punch in the vise - either way works fine. Carburetors have fuel involved, eventually any sort of thread locker will come loose - it gets dissolved by the fuel in the thing, mostly when you shut off the ignition and stop the engine. If you don't stake those screws you risk ingestion into the engine - I've had to fix that too many times not to do it right, but that's me - up to you on yours.

 

Don't be in a rush to sand/cut/file/grind that carb bore - the butterfly is simply not centered in the bore correctly from the factory - the Chinese one I put on the 16hp temporarily was way off being correct - it's probably a common thing with these and quality issues. Crack the screws loose but do not remove them first , then back off the idle stop screw completely so the butterfly can go fully shut. Poke around it a bit and maybe rotate it slightly to center it in the bore, then tighten/stake the screws correctly. All carburetor throttle valves of this type are oblong shaped - they are not round. The holes in those valves are also oval for a reason - it's to allow proper adjustment to the bore center once it's assembled, they just failed to assemble it properly. Given the price point - not a surprise as I'm sure they are knocking out hundreds an hour in that plant to make any profit.

Also, just fyi - those throttle valves are also beveled slightly (sometimes as little as 5*) so they seal to the bore correctly since the valve itself is oval in shape - they only go in that bore one way correctly. Never alter that angle or do any sanding/filing in the bore - you'll lose the ability to control vacuum and engine idle as well as screw with it's ability to use the idle circuit correctly during throttle transition. There's a lot of geometry built into a carburetor - it's not just a hole in a tube with a valve in it so be aware of that .

 

Just some things to know/learn - any questions, just ask . I've been doing this stuff almost 45yrs now - sometimes the cobwebs get knocked loose and the files stored in my skull break loose freely....lol. Not lecturing, just trying to educate - I'm here to pay the forum back for their help with issues I've ran into, such a great place.

 

Sarge

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I finally got around to cleaning the points and double-checking the Gap just under .020.

Started with a file that was fundamentally garbage so I switched over to sandpaper.

Cleaned off the cover and checked the bottom vent hole and put it back together.

 

20180210_114038.jpg.42e17e144f918ce9d00f3a26032656ae.jpg20180210_120256.jpg.32900466b80d276c690f31c07741547d.jpg

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Got the head installed using my cheap crappy torque wrench. 

Did the best I could to keep the torque even.

Should be fine.

 

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Looking good Eric! Don’t forget to retorque after you’ve had a little run time.  Can’t wait to see the video of this thing running...:techie-typing:

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Spent at least an hour cleaning the engine around the air fins and passages.

Bolted the side cover, fan cover screen, coil back in place.

 

20180211_110944.jpg.06f13289daf216968a84d81a519d774e.jpg20180211_110950.jpg.89d72f4c8529b9bacdd4fac125d513ac.jpg20180211_111019.jpg.adefb17ca1515c4f1a7c765d42f33cde.jpg

 

Then I did some work on the new carb. 

Removed the choke butterfly and discovered I couldn't just flip it and put the screws back in. I ground the end off, filed the burrs off, turned over the mount for the choke cable, and jbwelded it back on. .. reversed. 

 

20180211_130502.jpg.30e58aaf4496bf792490bfaf69b73bf1.jpg20180211_130515.jpg.6d94fc00870edb5b99609d58ceac6a79.jpg20180211_130526.jpg.b82d39b07372d9b4af77351fdecf81da.jpg

 

 

Sooooo..... here's the old carb throttle butterfly.  Notice anything missing? ?

20180211_130441.jpg.22e8228e0d5f8dd92b507900361aab59.jpg

 

I did check the engine bore while I had the head off and it's ok. ... 

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