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ebinmaine

'74 C160-8 Restomodification in Process

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Speaking of linkages—it’s not a big deal but some have the choke “arm” up from the choke shaft, while others are down.  This changes the routing direction of the choke cable.  I’ve run into this multiple times on different tractors that I’ve either done engine swaps or carb swaps on. While not the end of the world, it makes a “plug and play” application a little more of a headache if those details aren’t the same.  In the words of the immortal Bill Cosby, “things that are different, are not the same!” :text-lol: Good luck in your purchase and I’m really enjoying following along with you on his journey:techie-typing:...

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Wow...and I thought the carb on my C141 was wore out. Looks like you're making some progress, can't wait to see how it all turns out

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20 hours ago, PeacemakerJack said:

Speaking of linkages—it’s not a big deal but some have the choke “arm” up from the choke shaft, while others are down.  This changes the routing direction of the choke cable. 

I think I'll have to change mine when it comes in. 

I couldn't find one that set the right way. 

No worries. Hacksaw, big hammer, duct tape, problem solved. .....

 

 

Carb and full gasket kit should be here mid next week. 

 

 

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On the 16 Auto - I had to remove the choke shaft and swap it with the one out of the original carb. Not too hard to do - just make sure you file/grind the back side of the screws a bit on the back side of the shaft that attach the choke to the shaft first - otherwise you risk either breaking off the screw or stripping the threads in the shaft . On the side opposite the choke arm there is a ball and spring that fits into the detents to hold it in the open/closed positions inside the bore for the shaft - you need to keep an eye on those when you remove the choke shaft or they go flying to places unknown - never to be seen again. I just put a finger over the hole on the outside as the shaft is removed slowly, keeping the carb at an angle to hold those two parts when they push themselves out of the recessed hole. I do this over a small dog's water bowl to catch those tiny parts.

 

On assembly, it's the reverse - put the shaft almost all the way in - right up to the edge of the hole for the spring. Insert the spring with a fine pair of needle nose pliers , followed by the ball. I find it easiest to have that hole facing up, drop the ball in there and use a small flat screwdriver to compress the ball and spring enough to finish inserting the shaft. It's best done in a vise, very carefully, lol. If it pops out - you'll never see it again as they are truly tiny. I do believe those two parts are available new, just fyi...lol. Once the shaft is in , install the choke plate. I like to pre-clean the shaft with brake cleaner and use red loctite on the screw threads, as well as lightly punch them with a fine center punch for insurance. You never want one of those to become loose and get ingested by the engine - that leads to other problems. Make certain that choke plate is centered nicely and does not bind in any way - it should operate smoothly.

 

I'd spend some time checking inside the float bowl and maybe even back flush the circuits in the new carb - the knockoffs in any flavor are known to sometimes have debris in them. Then you can set the baseline settings per the book and install it on the engine from there - should be good to go. Mine does not really operate as smoothly as a Kohler carb, but it works fine for now until I can get time to get mine overhauled and back on the engine. Plan to get it done over the winter/spring before the mowing season. The knockoffs I've used all seem to have the same issue, there are flat spots in them due to their design not being detailed enough to keep the flow properties correct , it's common on many copies regardless of what they fit - there is a similar Chinese built clone on my Land Cruiser since it was missing it's original carb and even a used OEM one is really expensive.

I think the clone on the 16 Auto came from iSaveTractors.com , IIRC....

 

Sarge

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On ‎1‎/‎31‎/‎2018 at 5:11 AM, ebinmaine said:

order this later today

Good to hear EB although they don't cost much the fellas here have good reports about them. Don't toss the old one case you want to play with it later. Sometimes they come with a gasket.... sometimes not ....let us know if you need one I've got some  and cleaner gaskets.

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Sarge, that's a lot of good info there. Thank you very much!

 

 

2 minutes ago, WHX14 said:

Good to hear EB although they don't cost much the fellas here have good reports about them. Don't toss the old one case you want to play with it later. Sometimes they come with a gasket.... sometimes not ....let us know if you need one I've got some  and cleaner gaskets.

 

There are a couple other gaskets that are seeping a little. Fuel pump, couple other places. So I ordered a full engine gasket set because it wasn't a lot more money. I should be all set as far as gaskets go but I could use some help getting ahold of the air cleaner itself. This engine does not have one.

 

 

Love the fact that people on this forum are so helpful.

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The K341 is an odd air cleaner - same diameter as the 12hp version, but much deeper. I'd imagine someone has one - any single cylinder 16hp tractor air cleaner should be the same.

 

Sarge

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6 hours ago, Sarge said:

The K341 is an odd air cleaner - same diameter as the 12hp version, but much deeper. I'd imagine someone has one - any single cylinder 16hp tractor air cleaner should be the same.

 

Sarge

The Cub Cadet Quietline (1000 series) used the same air cleaner assembly across the HP board, funny how different brands didn't, Jeff.

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Late to the party but it looks like a nice engine you got there other than the carburetor. Nothing really constructive to add so I’ll just sit here and watch. Thanks for taking us along. :coffee:

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1 hour ago, 19richie66 said:

Late to the party but it looks like a nice engine you got there other than the carburetor. Nothing really constructive to add so I’ll just sit here and watch. Thanks for taking us along. :coffee:

 

 

 Better late than Never, right?

Thanks for joining in. Great to have you along!

Edited by ebinmaine
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17 hours ago, WVHillbilly520H said:

The Cub Cadet Quietline (1000 series) used the same air cleaner assembly across the HP board, funny how different brands didn't, Jeff.

The Cub Cadet 169 was the first Cub to be powered with the K341 motor.

C014B0BD-812B-489B-8EEB-D3B38FE6F624.jpeg.c054be8d7f1fa1c48d5b84a1794c2ae0.jpegThey were very late in the model run before the introduction of the 1650 QuietLine series. They only produced about 4500 of them and they are sought after in the Cub Community.  As Jeff mentioned—they had the large (deep dish) air cleaner.  I’m not positive because I’ve never personally owned a 169 but it sure looks to be the same air cleaner that is used on the KT series twins and later on the magnums without the snorkel spec’d by :wh: Like is on JackRabbit...

 

 

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Both of my tractors were rough when I got them and won't be show pieces at least for now. I'm more concerned with function than originality. If anybody has suggestions for what I could use, I'd like to hear them.

 

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2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

If anybody has suggestions for what I could use, I'd like to hear them.

 

Nevermind.....  Because. ...

 

Our friend @PeacemakerJack came through for me on this one.....

Thanks man !!!!!

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I had a suggestion and apparently Eric liked it...I’m sure you’ll get to hear/see more about that in a few days!  This forum is a great community and I’m glad to be part of it. If I’m able to contribute, I certainly want to...:handgestures-thumbupright: Others have contributed to me and I want to be able to “pass it along”.

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Glad you found one . I just had a thought , think the twin opposed K482/532 engines used the same air cleaner as the use the same carburetor, I think...foggy this morning here, lol.

 

Sarge

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Not much to report from yesterday... Just cleaned the head bolts. Too cold in the shop yesterday !!

 

Question about points/condenser usage/replacement.

I have no idea when the last time these were replaced so I'm going to put a set on.

I have a large 3 jaw puller. What do I need to know about pulling the flywheel to replace points???

How to set/ gap etc....

 

Thanks.

 

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Changed the bracket that locks the seat pan to the latch. Old one was broken. Thinking I might change the whole pan after I noticed the repaired area... I wanted to move the seat back.

Fiddled with the wiring a bit.

PO had been using a screwdriver across solenoid to start it.

 

I DO like a good spark show but I figured I'd fix it anyways.

 

Found that the Clutch safety switch had only ONE wire going to it so that's not helping. Took it out anyhow... Found that the PTO safety switch is Stuck in the ON position. Not sure if I'm leaving the PTO on this rig yet. (Don't need it). I may front- mount my Alt/Gen on there at some point which means I'll need the PTO so maybe I'll put the clutch switch in the PTO spot.

Aftermarket key switch is all loose so I'll likely throw another one in there as well.

All this of course followed by re-wiring the whole tractor at some later time. 

20180204_143001.jpg.44fa80063b47c0768faed4d4d1f81e78.jpg

 

 

Dropped the ( oil/molasses/black cheese?? ) out of the engine. I'll let that set and drain for a day or two before refill.

 

20180204_142943.jpg.0db7798a7dab3b7b60190c02316d3070.jpg

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5 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Not much to report from yesterday... Just cleaned the head bolts. Too cold in the shop yesterday !!

 

Question about points/condenser usage/replacement.

I have no idea when the last time these were replaced so I'm going to put a set on.

I have a large 3 jaw puller. What do I need to know about pulling the flywheel to replace points???

How to set/ gap etc....

 

Thanks.

 

On a K series to my knowledge no need to pull flywheel for points change, there's a rectangle cover over the points with 2 screws holding it fast 1 screw usually holding the ground wire, pull cover and remove/replace/re-set point gap...just roll engine over by hand while watching the points open/close with the push rod, if you want to pull it to clean it up back the nut out to the end of the threads use puller to disengage the taper/keyway then remove puller then nut and it should come on off easily, Jeff.

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Just took a run out to the workshop to peek at my ponts.... thanks again Jeff.....

 

They look a bit nasty.

 

And not all that fun to get at behind the muffler. ... perfect excuse / reason to make a stack.

 

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20180204_165030.jpg.491a33816d0bc183a3b0b3c69db2cec6.jpg

 

20180204_165053.jpg.2a0555ee3cc4fb2a19912619a2e5bcef.jpg

 

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Eric, those muffler clamps are cheap if you break one trying to remove them, luckily on dad's original Cub the points are really easy to get to the 1000 series not so much, I used to think the stacks were the way to go, depends where you working it if may get in the way vs a low mounted muffler just my :twocents-mytwocents:, if look a little more online there is some posts of using GM points instead of Kohler as well as higher voltage coils most likely for pullers not workers, keep plugging away you'll have that stallion biting at the bit for you, Jeff.

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I’ve been running a high output Bosch coil on my 100 for about four years now and haven’t lacked for spark!  This thing typically starts on the first revolution of the engine provided that I turn on the fuel petcock:doh:

3EE9828C-FE9F-4F53-9B74-E88E2CDBC0E6.jpeg.fe5cbb8243baab0bbb12db27aece074c.jpeg

Definitely not saying that you have to go this route as all of my other points/condenser engines have a stock coil.  Just saying that it works fine for the use and abuse that I put on this Mule!

 

Great info Jeff on the points. Eric, those do look pretty rough, glad you are replacing them!  On the topic of sheds, I’m so glad that I finally have heat in mine. Only took me 12 years to get to it but I’m loving it.  I hope that is in the cards for you one of these days...

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2 hours ago, PeacemakerJack said:

have heat in mine.

I kinda do already.... just also have a very leaky building. ...needs replacement. 

We'll be working on that within a year or two. 

Looking into a house addition either this summer or next. 

Garage is part of it.

THEN a separate workshop space the following year. 

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22 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

What do I need to know about pulling the flywheel to replace points???

How to set/ gap etc....

 

I am not fond of "what ever they use for material" to make points now days., OEM or aftermarket. Old points used to last 10yrs +, I can't seem to get that kind of time out of the new ones. If I can, I usually choose to clean the old points with some emery cloth. Followed by a final cleaning with a dollar bill or piece of paper.

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1 minute ago, Achto said:

 

I am not fond of "what ever they use for material" to make points now days., OEM or aftermarket. Old points used to last 10yrs +, I can't seem to get that kind of time out of the new ones. If I can, I usually choose to clean the old points with some emery cloth. Followed by a final cleaning with a dollar bill or piece of paper.

Dan, would you mind taking a close look at those pictures and see what you think? They look structurally solid 'n the spring feels good. They're not all rusty or anything. They don't appear to be pitted. Just a bunch of gray residue on the contacts.

Perhaps I should clean and reuse these?

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