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Professor1990

Restoration of Ray's C141

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Looks like progress from here.  Need to get the floor broke in. Just dump some oil close to the center and see which way it runs before cleaning it up.

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Its already got a fresh oil stain on it...I knew when I painted it that the C125 would just love to mark its territory the day I pulled it in there 

 

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55 minutes ago, Professor1990 said:

Sorry for the long winded post,.......... Bought a new computer

No need to apologize for a long post... especially one with so many :text-coolphotos: !!!!

I too just bit the bullet and got a new PC.

 

I'll be happily following along with your progress here.

 

 

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:text-coolphotos:      Glad to see some honest grime being applied to the newly pained floor.    :ychain:

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Still fighting with one of the hubs on Ray's tractor, this thing has been getting soaked in PB Blaster (maybe not the best but I can get all of it I want free from work :text-lol:), its been heated, and I've got about all the tension I can put on it with the puller without breaking anything. And it still refuses to budge. An old mechanic friend once told me every job has 7 curse words, trick is you gotta get them in the right order and things will fall together, I've cursed this thing with about every combination of words I can come up with and it still isn't coming off:ROTF:If anyone here has any tips, tricks, or suggestions I'm open to hearing them.IMG_20180206_181554.jpg.05365e231d5a536dfdd34d2a8b6e3e08.jpg

 

Oh and my new shop helper Khaleesi wanted to say hi to everyone here on RedSquareIMG_20180206_181618.jpg.58d8359f83bfd6164eb9fae26a5002f8.jpgIMG_20180206_181635.jpg.3a189c3ffbac697f5a04c62d227c951b.jpg

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Other than suggesting a reinforcing plate I  can't help you much on the hub. .. But the dog is adorable. 

 

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Been searching around and found this on YouTube, may try to fabricate one at work tomorrow and see how it goes

 

 

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45 minutes ago, Professor1990 said:

fighting with one of the hubs

The three jaw puller is likely to end up breaking your hub.

Use the other hub, five 3/8" by 5 or 6" bolts (not three like in the picture) and a 1" bolt and nut as a driver to make a puller.

IMG_2189.JPG.b1bb40f6105654e4219eb5b060b32289.JPG

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Here is another one using a bottle jack.

IMG_5373.JPG.097842559d6b5c7fd6a1d46f09139306.JPG

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Thank you for the ideas Richard, I may try the bottle jack idea after work tomorrow if I get in early enough, been putting in a lot of long hours the past few days. But that looks like it might just be the ticket I need to get this thing off. It's really holding up progress and I've got a lot of work to do if this thing is going to be done in time to try and bring it to the Big Show this year

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I used the below-pictured puller from Harbor Freight and a torch. Mine were a PAIN to get off. One word of caution . . . I was replacing all the transmission seals, so I didn't care what it did to the existing seals. Not that it will harm them, but you have to be careful how much heat the axle gets because I would think you could damage them..

 

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I was going to chew your butt Bryce about the three jaw usage but I see you have been warned! :ychain: If you ask some other members if they have a spare scrap hub to make a puller I would bet they would send you one for shipping. There's a lot of them out ther with shot keyways.

Do a search here on hub pullers and you will find other creative ways the fellas  made one with stuff they had lying around.

Edited by WHX14
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12 hours ago, Professor1990 said:

Thank you for the ideas Richard, I may try the bottle jack idea after work tomorrow

I like that one too. Thanks for posting that Richard.

You already have the hub off of the other side so you could use that as your base and 5 rods instead of three.

Some point soon here I'm going to have to have a discussion with my C 160 about rear seals and that looks like it might be the way I go

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4 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

5 rods instead of three.

Yes fer sure ..lessen your chances of snapping that cast. There will be some French to follow if you do... don't ask me how I know! Lots and lots of penetrant and lube down thru the setscrew hole.

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If you are trying to use a propane or Mapp gas torch to heat it , those really don't work very often unless it isn't stuck that badly . I always replace the axle seals - so the red/green wrench comes out as nothing else will heat a casting fast enough to break it loose, unless you can find a plumber that has one of the new induction heating coil units but those cost north of $3k.

 

I would not pull on the flange in any way - even with an acetylene torch and rose bud head I've had 2 hubs shatter using all 5 of the wheel mounting holes - they are too far away from center and if you flex the casting it's going to shatter. Best idea I've seen yet is the homebrew bar puller - it's putting all the force directly on the back of the hub but many are against the axle housing too tight to allow that , but still - a good idea if there is room. Best way I've found is a heavy bearing separator and a bar type pulling frame/screw setup - they will deliver the most force directly to the back of the hub where it needs to be delivered. I've had several that despite being soaked with Kroil it still took some serious heat , even with the bearing separator puller - that's a crazy amount of force to break loose a rust weld and one had a partially broken key to take that much force. Also have exploded one bearing separator frame in the press removing an axle hub - sometimes it's just better off cutting the dumb thing and replacing it or the entire axle if it's too bad versus a $75 tool . I have welded up badly worn keyways as well and cut new ones on several - there is always a way. Some take several different attempts but all the ideas are good ones - it just takes one of them to work and sometimes a bit of luck helps.

 

Good luck with it - patience counts but profanity at least helps your sanity.

 

Sarge

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3 hours ago, WHX14 said:

I was going to chew your butt Bryce about the three jaw usage but I see you have been warned! :ychain:

I know that's not the best way to do it, but sometimes gotta work with what you have. I figured I would at least try it before I went to the trouble of building something else. Looks like it's not going to work, unless it has moved through the night as I left it under pressure, going to head over there in a bit and see. 

 

3 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

You already have the hub off of the other side so you could use that as your base and 5 rods instead of three.

 

If it hasn't moved under the pressure I left it under last night, I will probably run out to the farm and cut some pieces of all-thread to try this idea next.

 

1 hour ago, Sarge said:

- sometimes it's just better off cutting the dumb thing and replacing it 

 

 

If nothing else works to get it off, I am totally not opposed to cutting it off and replacing it, this stupid thing is really holding up my progress on this tractor, any other machine I wouldn't worry so much, but I'm needing to get this one done as soon as I can for more than a couple reasons. Not only am I planning on making the 1400 mile one way trip for the Big Show this year and bringing this tractor, but Ray's health is declining more and more every day. As much as I hate to say it, I fear he is not going to be around much longer and I would really love for him to be able to see this tractor finished. 

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If you were closer it would be off already - but I have probably more tools than anyone should own as well, lol. The type of puller I recommended can be rented at most auto parts stores - just inspect it first as many are returned broken or have stripped forcing screws, ect. Cheap way to do it without having to fork over the coin to own one.

 

Sarge

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