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Great instructions! Straight from the horse's mouth so to speak:thanks:

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Ok. you guys made me go out and take a pic of my truck window. :rolleyes:

 

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Great info Terry - I was wondering before when I did your vinyl what that odd pattern was on the back of them, never knew anything about the trapped air escaping that way - interesting. I've always done mine wet , never had an issue but I keep the soap down to a minimum and try to work quickly - then park it in the sun and allow it to set tightly and try not to squeegee the decal more than I have to . I have scratched a couple - there is no fixing that so it's important your scraper or rubber pad is absolutely clean - new is even better. Plastic applicators for bondo work ok, but they can seem to hurt the surface if press very hard so keep that in mind. I do need to find something better for laying them down - any ideas ?

 

I love Terry's custom work - he's great at custom stuff and what he's done for us over the years - quite the asset around here.


Sarge

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2 hours ago, Sarge said:

Great info Terry - I was wondering before when I did your vinyl what that odd pattern was on the back of them, never knew anything about the trapped air escaping that way - interesting. I've always done mine wet , never had an issue but I keep the soap down to a minimum and try to work quickly - then park it in the sun and allow it to set tightly and try not to squeegee the decal more than I have to . I have scratched a couple - there is no fixing that so it's important your scraper or rubber pad is absolutely clean - new is even better. Plastic applicators for bondo work ok, but they can seem to hurt the surface if press very hard so keep that in mind. I do need to find something better for laying them down - any ideas ?

 

I love Terry's custom work - he's great at custom stuff and what he's done for us over the years - quite the asset around here.


Sarge

Wrapping an old sock or microfiber towel around your squeegee works well.

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@Vinylguy Terry how long do you recommend letting a fresh paint job cure before applying vinyl. I'm a long ways from being ready for that step, but will hopefully soon be ordering a set from you for my special C141, also have an idea for a custom decal for that tractor when the time comes

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On 1/26/2018 at 7:52 PM, Vinylguy said:

WHX14 

 Seriously if you messed up your rear decal I would be happy to send a replacement ASAP. PM me if you do need one.

 

 

Why thank you Terry but no need as I was just messing with the fellas. Your decals see me coming & pretty much jump on by themselves! They want no part of my ineptitude! :lol:

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@Professor1990 . From my experience, at minimum a few days with hardeners. Straight enamel - much longer as it takes quite a while to fully cure. When you paint, make a test piece out of scrap - when you can no longer easily scratch the paint with a screwdriver tip, it's cured out all the way. You'd be surprised how long it can take modern acrylic enamels and others to fully cure - some spray can types can take almost 6 months before they fully harden. I use the hardener chemicals in my paints, but I'm prepared to handle the associated hazards - don't take them lightly as the stuff can kill you and it's slowly going away. Modern base/clear urethanes are much faster at cure out but need heat to really cure fully - using sunlight helps but it still takes around 30 days from what I know.

 

Terry probably has his own rules and I'm deeply interested in those and what he has to say on that - I've gotten away with putting decals on enamels after 48hrs, but that's with a good quality old fashioned hardener added and those are no longer available due to regulations, wish I had more of it.

 

@Vinylguy - thanks for the tip, I never thought of that, duh...

 

Sarge

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19 hours ago, Professor1990 said:

@Vinylguy Terry how long do you recommend letting a fresh paint job cure before applying vinyl. I'm a long ways from being ready for that step, but will hopefully soon be ordering a set from you for my special C141, also have an idea for a custom decal for that tractor when the time comes

Bryce

 My paint knowledge is very limited to say the least but I have only seen 1 instance of paint attacking the decals. I was at Scott's meet and greet and a customer showed me his Lawn Ranger that he had repainted and put my decals on.

The red paint had eaten its way clear through the Brushed Chrome vinyl. Looked like the decals had a bad case of pox. At first I thought I had a bad roll of vinyl but after asking how long he had waited after painting to apply the decals he said

just a couple days because he had just finished it to bring to the meet and greet. I  don't remember what kind of paint he used but it was a rattle can. 

Sarge seems to have a very good knowledge of the different types of paint. When asked I always say to give it 10 days to 2 weeks before applying decals and so far I have not seen this problem again.

Hope this helps Bryce. PM me with your idea for a custom decal you need.

 

Thanks

Terry 

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7 hours ago, Sarge said:

I've gotten away with putting decals on enamels after 48hrs, but that's with a good quality old fashioned hardener added and those are no longer available due to regulations, wish I had more of it.

 

@Sarge Have you ever checked out this paint http://www.vansicklepaint.com/tractor/tta.html

It is very similar to the old Dupont Centari, and cost a bout $75/gal. I have had very good luck with this paint.

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I haven't tried it yet but may this next summer if I have the time to go after the 1277 - it will take a lot of work to fix it's frame first and address some other issues from some idiot's abuse, lol..mine. I've read up on them, seems they still use a very high solids formula compared to most except the higher end automotive paints.

 

Sarge

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