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Want to know how you folks apply your decals mainly the hood decals that are long.Have any of you folks used windex?

 

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:text-yeahthat: Spray it, apply it, position it, then squeegee it in place.  

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I sometimes do final cleaning with Windex and then use rubbing alcohol as the final step. To apply all size decals I always peel back an inch or two of the backing and cut it off with a scissors. Then I place the sticker where I want to apply it with the remaining backing still in place. Once I’m happy with the location I press down  the exposed part of the decal. From there I roll back the unstuck portion and slowly remove the backing while pressing the rest of the sticker down. 

 

By sticking the initial exposed decal to the tractor it locks the position and makes for a nice, straight install. 

10 minutes ago, AMC RULES said:

:text-yeahthat: Spray it, apply it, position it, then squeegee it in place.  

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 So are you saying that you spray it with Windex, apply the decal while the glass is wet, and then squeegee it? That’s a great decal, by the way. 

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Yes sir...I remember doing this one in direct, midday, summer sun. 

Glass was so hot, Windex was turning to steam on contact. 

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Another method is to use dishwashing soap & water (just like the Windex method);  wet the glass or metal with the soapy water then lay the decal on that, slide around until you get the exact position then using a squeeze (start in center >out), remove the water from beneath the decal.  This method works especially well with larger and longer decals, the watery residue left beneath the decal will evaporate in time.

Naturally, clean/degrease/clean the surface very well first before applying the decal (alcohol would be smart too).

 

 

Now we know Craigs occupation.

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Here is my method - I place a piece of masking tape along the top of the new decal. Use the tape to position the decal in place. After you have it measured out and are sure that it is where you want it, press the tape down tight. Then using the tape as a hinge, fold the decal up and remove the backing, at this time you may spray soapy water on if you wish. Bring the decal back down and squeegee the air / soapy water out. Always start in the middle and work the bubbles to the out side. 

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:deadhorse:           I know I'm beating a dead horse here and it has been well documented that Windex is the way; I just want to show off my window decal too!          :snooty:

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Edited by 953 nut
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Me too. I have to show my rear window as well...

 

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I always clean the glass or painted surface, then I use a spray bottle filled with water and a few drops of dish washing detergent. I spray the receiving surface, then the adhesive side of the decal. Makes placement and adjusting simple. I used to have an office next door to a truck lettering business. I have watched literally hours of vinyl application, and that is the way they did it.

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It is especially important to use the "wet" method when doing a die-cut decal as shown above. Dry placement would be a nightmare if you needed to reposition each individual letter.

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Ok, that’s it. I’m putting my decal on when I get home. :thumbs:

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 I just received my decals for the 314-A and after reading this thread I’m a little confused. It seems the preferred method is used Windex or soapy water to apply the vinyl decal to windows but would this be the same process for applying the logos to the hood of the tractor? 

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Yes you can use this method. When you wet it with (dish) soapy water, the soap helps keep the decal suspended on the liquid till you get it where you want it. Squeegee the water out from under the decal getting all the bubbles out and then park it in the sun for a couple hours. 

Edited by 19richie66
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3 hours ago, WHX14 said:

  When I sober up and see how it really looks I take the second set over to @Achto's place and let him put it on! :lol:

It's good to have an expert like Dan close by, isn't Jim!:greetings-clappingyellow: When it comes to the letters for the JackRabbit, I'll have to give him a shout...

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I might add, before removing the old decals take pictures and measurements to aid in getting the new ones  to being put back as close to original and possible, with that you could also lay down blue/green painter's tape as guide to help keep them straight and use dish soap and water or get window tint film application solution sold at Walmart or a car parts store to help aid in keeping the air bubbles out, Jeff.

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48 minutes ago, PeacemakerJack said:

It's good to have an expert like Dan close by, isn't Jim!:greetings-clappingyellow: When it comes to the letters for the JackRabbit, I'll have to give him a shout...

 

Any body remember these beauties?

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Laying the wood grain down on these was always a joy!! The wheel openings were a major PITA. Back when I worked as an auto body tech, we had one customer that drove their Caravan by feel..:auto-swerve: I replaced 4 fenders, + other damage on that van alone, in about a years time. ( Didn't like seeing that van pull in the yard:no: ) It did give opportunity to acquired a little bit skill with vinyl. Luckily my current job allows me to lay down some vinyl once and a while, so I keep me in practice.

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@AMC RULES, I feel you there and the model decals, do you still have the AMX? I'll have to see if I spy the one sitting near work and take a couple pics for you, someone repainted it a Chrysler light shade of violet like my old 95 S10, Jeff.

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6 hours ago, WHX14 said:

Seriously Richard @953 nut your rear looks great,

Thank you for noticing!       :ychain:

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9 hours ago, WHX14 said:

Ok so while you guys are showing off your rears here's my method.

 

First I take a big swig off the bottle of Wild Turkey just to get up the gumption up for a eleven thumbed idiot like me to even attempt ruining a $40 decal. Nobody ever told me I was supposed to clean the SURFACE with alcohol.  Then I take the decal and crumble it up and rip it in a couple of places. Hey it's gonna happen so I may as well just get it over with. Then I peel the backing off and just slap it on like I was wackin the wife's bottom. I get about the same results from the decal. After a couple more pulls off the turkey it looks fine. Did I mention I usually buy two sets & I am on Vinyl Guy's Christmas card list?  When I sober up and see how it really looks I take the second set over to @Achto's place and let him put it on! :lol:

 

Seriously Richard @953 nut your rear looks great, you get that one from Terry? Never mind found it!  Gotta have one!

 

Speaking of @Vinylguy get some popcorn there's a movie :popcorn:

https://www.redoyourhorse.com/installation-tips/

WHX14 

 Seriously if you messed up your rear decal I would be happy to send a replacement ASAP. PM me if you do need one.

 

 

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@AMC RULES that's one awesome looking AMX!!:bow-blue: Great work on the decals.

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I make most of my graphics using Arlon 4600lx Air Egress prepositional Eco Solvent printable wrap vinyl and laminate.

You will notice the air channels in the adhesive of the decals that allows trapped air to escape in the event you should have a bubble  after application.

I am attaching a link to a you tube video that demonstrates removing post application bubbles. Air escape vinyl is very user friendly and a wet application is NOT recommended

as the air channels can and will trap moisture under the decals.  If you do use the wet method with this material just be patient, allow extra time for the solution to completely dry

and then make sure to go over all edges to ensure a good seal. Use a soft cloth or cotton glove to prevent scratching the decal.

This will prevent contaminates from lifting the edge and causing premature failure of your graphics.

You can use Windex or mix a small amount of dish soap in a quart spray bottle for your wet application.

 

. Also I highly recommend watching the video on the installation tips page at redoyourhorse.com 

Make sure all surfaces especially glass are super clean. Glass is porous and needs to be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol to remove residue trapped in the glass.

This will help the edges remain sealed and prevent premature failure of your window decals. 

 

Installing air escape decals

Installing air escape on glass

 

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Edited by Vinylguy
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Make Sure Your Paint Is Cured Before Applying Your Graphics

Occasionally, a vinyl graphic is applied smoothly and bubble-free, but bubbles appear a day or so later as if by magic. If this happens, you probably have applied your graphic to a substrate that’s still out-gassing. Out-gassing is a process seen in solvent based materials wherein the solvents used in manufacturing slowly evaporate as the product ages. This process, also known as curing, generally takes a few days to a few weeks depending on the product or surface. If you apply a vinyl graphic to a substrate that’s still curing, those solvents will be trapped, causing bubbles under the vinyl. In addition to being an unsightly nuisance, the trapped solvents can interact chemically with the vinyl’s adhesive causing it to fail. To avoid this, never apply vinyl to a freshly painted surface. 

Edited by Vinylguy
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