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BTW belated Happy Happy @Joshn569 :occasion-cake:..... Dan's got a beef about stealing his thread to tell you that I'll thresh him! :ychain:

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1 minute ago, WHX14 said:

BTW belated Happy Happy @Joshn569 :occasion-cake:..... Dan's got a beef about stealing his thread to tell you that I'll thresh him! :ychain:

Lol. Thanks bud 

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Achto, You must have one of those "Magic Sheds" that I read about someplace else in this Forum. When you started this rebuild, the parts were laying in a pile on the floor, Now the same parts are flying in the air, in your shed. And all new looking to boot. I need one of them garages:lol::lol:.

 

Looking great so far.

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9 hours ago, WHX14 said:

I was more thinking on weening him off that obnoxious torpedo  heater I see sitting there..:lol:

 

That heater is mainly for fast recovery Jim. A guy needs that when he's heating a corn crib. Literately - when I was a wee lad this shop was a drive through corn crib. Dad & my bro's turned it into a work shop.

 

22 minutes ago, cpete1 said:

When you started this rebuild, the parts were laying in a pile on the floor, Now the same parts are flying in the air, in your shed.

 

No room to paint in my shop cpete, that spot where the pile was when I started this thread is about all I have left for room. All the parts get transferred to my mom's for painting. Getting them to fly, well that'll just have to remain one of those secrets.:D Definitely need to build another shed at home, my barn is quite full. 

 

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My new drive gear  from @wheelhorseman arrived and fit perfectly. A special thanks to Lowell for making the parts to keep these pumps in working order.

IMG_20180224_090216177_HDR-min.jpg.7411256f1577bd1e0a53f8337c2b54fa.jpg

 

Part of the control lever for the hydro pump had been broken off before I purchased the tractor. The break was about where I have the yellow line drawn. My plans are to use a heim joint to connect the lever to a handle on the dash for easier access. In order to do this I needed some more material to work with, so I welded an extension on. After I get my hiem joint I can cut the extension down to the appropriate length. Before welding on the handle, I wrapped foil around the valve drum to keep weld spatter off. IMG_20180224_140825288-min.jpg.9f0b0ac2b253769d298ff4127258f837.jpg 

 

I had cleaned up my plow & repainted it so I decided to put it back together. Only thing left to do is to put the new decals on.

IMG_20180224_140205451_HDR-min.jpg.b1a784c7bb75a6d9d0b83d659bbc207f.jpg

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Dan looking good, you got me worried, looks like you be sitting and watching us plow:ychain:

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:text-yeahthat:Might be looking too good ... might not want o get it dirty!:ychain:

 

At a loss as to why you had o weld on that drum (I call it the valve spool) but was it not threaded where the handle attached and is it not cast iron?

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12 minutes ago, Shynon said:

looks like you be sitting and watching us plow:ychain:

 

No worries Tom, Still intended to be a plow tractor.

 

5 minutes ago, WHX14 said:

) but was it not threaded where the handle attached and is it not cast iron?

 

This tractor was formally owned by a "shoe man", this was one of those things that I had to repair as best as I could.

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Searching for mid mount pulley to attach to attach o matic. For rear tiller operations

Thanks

Bill

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38 minutes ago, redone said:

Searching for mid mount pulley to attach to attach o matic. For rear tiller operations

Thanks

Bill

Any chance you may have posted this in the wrong thread Bill @redone? Maybe try an add in the classifieds for it. Other wise check with @wheelhorseman, I know he does carry some tiller parts.

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:handgestures-thumbupright:  He missposted the same thing in a couple of other threads, hang it there Bill we'll get you straightened out.

Edited by WHX14
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Posted (edited)

Looking excellent Dan!!! Did the (fly on the wall) behave himself??? 😂😂  I’m looking forward to July at Portage Wisconsin so I can see your tractor. And it looks like I will need to bring sunglasses good job on the paint!!

Edited by wheelhorseman
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22 minutes ago, wheelhorseman said:

Did the (fly on the wall) behave himself??? 😂😂

 

No glue strips required.:D:D

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@Achto, with the Van Sickle paint so you use hardener and/or clear coat? When I got the Nason the guy that got my 418A recommended and used the air dry no hardener acrylic enamel with the option of a clear coat, Jeff.

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@WV Hillbilly Yes I used a gloss hardener with the paint. No clear coat though. This is a single stage paint. When I get back to my computer I'll get you some pics of the products I used.

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Posted (edited)

I used Nason 421-10 2k urethane primer on my sheet metal. Urethane primers allow you to fill minor imperfections with out haveing them show up later on down the road due to shrinking, a known issue when using lacquer primer.  It's been a while since I've sprayed any Nason top coats. Does Nason offer a gloss hardener for that paint? If they do I would suggest using it, it will increase the scratch/chip resistance as well as the chemical resistance. Your jobber might be able to suggest a hardener, if Nason does not offer one. I know Mar-hyde makes a "wet look" hardener for acrylic enamel.

 

Here's a pic of the system I use. I've had good luck with the paint system, it usually comes in under Nason on the price. You can spray this paint without using the hardener, but i prefer to use it.  I wish that Vansickle offered a Urethane primer, but no dice there.:dunno:

IMG_20180304_095245346-min.jpg.9416735f60d8d1c6604a7e48776d11d5.jpg

 

The quart of black in the pic points toward what I did today. A few parts received some black paint today, now I should be able to put the spray equipment away. For this resto at least.

IMG_20180304_104102377_HDR-min.jpg.60e19d19668acaf5ff06897701f1ec0b.jpg

Edited by Achto
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Dan, Nason does offer a hardener and I did ask about, but he assured me this is exactly the same he used on his :wh: that he restored and uses, so I figured I'd give it a go on the Cub since it is only used minimally anymore, Jeff.

24131323_10214469201622096_9220508232760174995_n.jpg

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On ‎3‎/‎3‎/‎2018 at 8:29 PM, wheelhorseman said:

(fly on the wall) behave himself

Always! :lol:

 

Thanks Dan for letting me watch. I did manage to learn a thing or two. On the way home I swung by TSC to see if about a battery for the ATV and I noticed they had less $$ paint supplies there. Probaly not the quality stuff you guys are using but good enough for a painting newbie to play with. Start out by doing non :wh: stuff like tubs and decks and other stuff that doesn't have to be show quality and going to get banged up again anyway. I get the impression even being a half a$$ed painter is a lot like being a decent welder.....practice practice practice!  

 

The only down side I would see as to broaching new keyways 90 deg. in your shot hubs is you wouldn't have the (little bit?)  of extra strength boss where the original set screw is.  If a guy is going to go through the trouble of broaching existing shot hubs that might be questionable (hidden cracks) one might just make new hubs out of steel? Were you thinking about full length on the axles? Would the full length on the axle be in the same spot as the woodruff cut? If so could the existing set screw be used for the  backup set screw? I do have that 5060 I got from @Terry M that is ready to go with full length keys already cut in.

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50 minutes ago, WHX14 said:

The only down side I would see as to broaching new keyways 90 deg. in your shot hubs is you wouldn't have the (little bit?)  of extra strength boss where the original set screw is.  If a guy is going to go through the trouble of broaching existing shot hubs that might be questionable (hidden cracks) one might just make new hubs out of steel? Were you thinking about full length on the axles? Would the full length on the axle be in the same spot as the woodruff cut? If so could the existing set screw be used for the  backup set screw? I do have that 5060 I got from @Terry M that is ready to go with full length keys already cut in.

 

Here's my thoughts - Many of us have added a second set screw 90 degrees from the original. Since the key ways are bad on my hubs, I was thinking of cutting a new key way 90 degrees to the original and adding the set screw to lock on the key. The original set screw would then become the second/back up screw. Any thoughts pro or con welcome on this idea. I do plan on cutting the axles for full length keys.

 

I'm still working on getting a new set of steel hubs made, my CNC guy is kind of a slacker though. Hence the hold up on some ones sickle parts.

 

I probably should have traded you my tranny & a rebuild kit for the tranny you have Jim. Would have saved me some work,:)  

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