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17 hours ago, Achto said:

I removed the cover for the pump gears and the drive gear had broke. Or in the words of Mick Jagger "She oopie, Shattered Shattered":(

That's not the first one I've seen broken or cracked, pretty bad design with a blind roll pin with no way to get it out. Maybe @wheelhorseman is making these?:think:

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Want to tackle the Sundstrand input shafts for the D's and save them from the iron pile ?

LOL....figured you already had those done, but couldn't remember.

 

Sarge

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How is the flash off on that VanSickle paint with the hardener in it , fast or slow ? I need to look into their paint more - everything else other than automotive grades is becoming less and less solids content. Took 3 heavy coats to get the color with the Rustoleum equipment paint on the trailer - that was no fun.

 

Sarge

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25 minutes ago, Sarge said:

How is the flash off on that VanSickle paint with the hardener in it , fast or slow ?

 

One advantage to using their 171 primer is the fact that you don't have to wait for it to dry & wet sand it before you paint. Spray the primer, wait 30 min then top coat. a big plus when painting multible small parts. The 30 min wait for the primer is about perfect too, as that is how long the induction period wait is after adding the hardener to the paint. With a temp of about 65 degrees in the shop today it was about 15 to 20 min between coats of paint, or in my case with multiple parts I could pretty much spray paint non stop until all 3 coats were applied. I check my tack time by touching a spot that won't be seen or touch masking tape that has had a full coat of paint on it. Tacky paint that does not transfer color to your finger is ready for another coat.

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11 hours ago, Sarge said:

Took 3 heavy coats to get the color with the Rustoleum equipment paint on the trailer - that was no fun

 

It is common for reds to have poor hiding capabilities. The Vansickle IH red acrylic enamel achieves full hiding in two coats.

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The now extinct Valspar Restoration series enamel was great - 2 decent coats got full color depth but the stuff they replaced it with takes 4-5 and seems to never properly harden, ugh. What I'm curious about with the VanSickle paint is how well it flows out - flash to "set" time to achieve it's gloss . A lot of this stuff requires different thinner when using hardener , otherwise it comes out very rough and dull but it can back fire on you and take forever to fully cure. The Magik branded stuff at TSC is notorious for that - 6 months later, even with hardener added you can scratch it off with a fingernail easily.

 

In the last few years since the demise of the Valspar I've switched to using reducers from the auto parts stores - they have varying grades to slow down the flash off and allow the paint to flow out better to produce a much nicer gloss that doesn't need a lot of buffing work after drying. Some types are referenced by heat range, others by time grade, they work very well for paints that don't want to play nice. These reducers are also a big help when dealing with hotter temps during the summer when conditions are less than ideal . I've been able to lay paint in high heat and humidity with predictable results - prior to using the stuff it was really taking a chance. I need to pick up a quart of the VanSickle this summer and just try it on something - plenty of projects coming if I have the time and much of that stuff is attachment parts that can easily be blasted clean again if it doesn't work out.

 

Sarge

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32 minutes ago, Sarge said:

In the last few years since the demise of the Valspar I've switched to using reducers from the auto parts stores - they have varying grades to slow down the flash off and allow the paint to flow out better to produce a much nicer gloss that doesn't need a lot of buffing work after drying.

 

Vansickle only offers 1 reducer for their acrylic enamel, 9090. This is the same reducer that is used in their 170 gray and 171 red oxide primers. The reduction on both paint & primer is 8:1.

Yesterday with the shop at about 65 degrees the paint was dust free in about 30 min. I have sprayed in temps up to about 90 degrees and of course the dry times decrease but the gloss does not change. Only buffing required is to repair mistakes, ( dust, runs, etc).

 

Unlike the strait enamels like the TSC Majik and some grades of the Valspar, acrylics enamels are not as weather sensitive. Vansickle does offer a strait enamel line that I have used in the past. This line of their paint is real similar to the Valspar enamel.

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Wished I knew a fraction of what you guys know about painting! :)  Reducers, flash times, hardeners is all Greek to me! Next time you paint Dan I would like to be a fly on the wall just to watch!

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9 minutes ago, WHX14 said:

Next time you paint Dan I would like to be a fly on the wall just to watch!

 

I'll have to bring you in when I spray the sheet metal. Could use an extra guy for wet sanding.:D

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I don't mind acrylics, but some brands have gotten too sensitive to reducers making them not wanting to flow correctly out of the gun. The reducers I use were from Car Quest and seemed to work fine with any enamel, acrylic or otherwise so I keep two quarts around in both medium and high temp ranges to get the finish to flow out properly and not create problems with overspray that doesn't want to melt into the current layer. The trailer project was one of the worst about flashing off too fast , but out in the sun with no protection has it's own problems anyway. High temp reducer fixed it and the stuff cured better overall anyway on the last coat. Took a lot of Scotch-brite pads to knock the dust layer off the other coats but it's done and looks fine for a trailer.  If the VanSickle behaves like the old Valspar - that's awesome news and I'll be getting some this summer to test it , not like I don't have plenty of stuff that needs a new paint job around here...lol. Btw, exactly what hardener are you using for this paint brand ?

Thanks for the info - much appreciated.

 

Sarge

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2 hours ago, Sarge said:

Btw, exactly what hardener are you using for this paint brand ?

 

I used their A7019 hardener, 16:1 mix. I've had some issues mixing brands in the past, this left me with no one to blame but me for the out come. So now I stick with one brand from start to finish. There will be an exception to that rule on the sheet metal as Vansickle does not offer a urethane fill & sand primer. Some don't like to wet sand urethane primer (me included) but I like it because it does not shrink over time.

 

Here is a link to their acrylic enamel line up. http://www.vansicklepaint.com/tractor/tta.html

This is their alkyd enamel line up. http://www.vansicklepaint.com/tractor/tractorenamel.html 

Edited by Achto
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Appreciate that - bookmarked and spending some more time later reading their SDS pages and details , what I'm seeing is very promising compared to fighting with auto grades and all the associated costs. I like those acrylics and their properties over alkyd types, not to mention non-shrink is always a good thing - cracking sucks. I suspect their performance line might be better than the old Valspar , not sure but some test samples would prove it . I have done some auto grade acrylic enamels that were color matched on the wheels but the cost was pretty high - plus that paint is no longer available now since they were bought out - Western was a great brand for the money. I see that VanSickle also does custom mixes - that's really interesting and I may call with the codes and see what they say for the conversion to their stuff. If they can hit the mix dead-on to the codes that would be cool if the cost was better than auto grade...and sure a lot easier to deal with the way things keep constantly changing in the auto paints - no way I'm ever going to water based, not happening here, ever.

 

If you haven't seen them - check out their Hall of Fame page, some of that equipment turned out beautifully. I should have used their brand over Rustoleum junk on the old Atlas/Clausing drill press..duh.

http://www.vansicklepaint.com/halloffame/images/case-77-garden-tractor.html

http://www.vansicklepaint.com/halloffame/images/farmall.html

 

Sarge

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@Sarge I have been getting my Vansickle acrylic at my local Fleet Farm. The price there is normally about $75 / gal for the paint or primer, $45 / gal for the reducer, and $15 / 1/2pint for the hardener. Right now they have the paint & primer marked down to $49 / gal. I fear that FF might have made a decision to stop carrying it, if so I will have to find another dealer I guess. 

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Consumers in these stores are their own enemy - they want a cheap, low cost paint but they don't understand the differences. They won't buy the higher priced stuff and will go after the cheaper versions first, stores cater to that and drop the higher quality items - it's a vicious circle and how we end up with so much junk instead of quality goods. You'd think enough of them would learn that buying cheap paint means you buy 2X more of it because you can't even get the color right unless you double the number of coats, it fades way too easily and scratches with little to no effort. I don't thing it was just the buyout from Sherwin that caused the death of the good quality Valspar - it was the consumers themselves and that's a shame.

 

We have no local stores here that carry anything from Van Sickle that I'm aware of - hopefully there are no problems shipping the stuff or I'm in for a very long drive.

 

Sarge

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On 1/18/2018 at 10:54 PM, Achto said:

  After some fun time on the lathe I have a new front axle pin, pivot pin for the slot hitch, a rod for the hood latch, and bolts for the fender pan.

IMG_20180118_184329656-min.jpg.3aa93df67a8130acbed9a5c21d05268f.jpg

 

I need a hood latch rod... Let me know if your maching skills are for hire

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I had the day off today so I took the time to do the body work on my sheet metal and get it in primer. 1 coat of self etching primer, 3 coats of primer. Next steps will be to mist a guide coat on these, wet sand with 400 grit and get some paint on them.

IMG_20180223_153016116_HDR-min.jpg.7b30f9f94c56c233f250c3222a25630e.jpg

Edited by Achto
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9 minutes ago, Achto said:

Next steps will be to mist a guide coat on these, wet sand with 400

Have you ever used a red or flat black primer for the guide coat? I have had good luck alternating a couple of colors to make high/low spots stand out and use red primer as the final coat prior to finishing.

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11 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

Have you ever used a red or flat black primer for the guide coat?

 

I usually use a cheap spray can of primer as a guide coat. Dark over light / light over dark

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Hood latches are easy to find Joshn... Dan just gets a cheap thrill out of making his own just becuse he likes to and can ! :) Richard @953 nut you and Dan are speaking hieroglyphics  again with guide coats and such nonsense?!?!

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Oh by the way Dan no work today???  I heard they need gennies down south??:lol:

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1 minute ago, WHX14 said:

Oh by the way Dan no work today???  I heard they need gennies down south??:lol:

 

Enjoyed it today, OT coming next month.. If your not busy next weekend I can show you the purpose of a guide coat. :) Can get a chance to be that "fly on the wall" during painting too.

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3 minutes ago, Achto said:
4 minutes ago, Achto said:

 

Enjoyed it today, OT coming next month.. If your not busy next weekend I can show you the purpose of a guide coat. :) Can get a chance to be that "fly on the wall" during painting too.

Dan just as precaution to have on hand I recommend this product! :text-lol:

 

D72881B7-9138-48FE-B590-BC637FD36361.jpeg

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LOL lmasofff Lowell ...... I was more thinking on weening him off that obnoxious torpedo  heater I see sitting there..:lol:

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