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Not much exciting to report. I took advantage of the near 40 degree day on Sat. and sandblasted all of my large parts. I did get another "sandblaster surprise" on the hood.

IMG_20180128_135833747-min.jpg.e9fcfbadc58b6775e03efa4b5fa8a69b.jpg

 

Classic example of what will happen sooner or later when two pieces of metal are sandwiched together. A couple pics of the repair.

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I will have to do some filler work to clean it up, but at least it's solid again.

 

I decided to freshen up my plow along with this project, the warm weather allowed me to spray some satin black on some of those parts.

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Dan, when you’ve blasted the large pieces like that what do you do to protect it from flash rusting until you are ready to paint it?  

 

Things are looking good so far—nice to see those plow pieces in the black!:clap:

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1 hour ago, PeacemakerJack said:

Dan, when you’ve blasted the large pieces like that what do you do to protect it from flash rusting until you are ready to paint it?

 

To keep bare metal from flash rusting you need to keep it dry, dry, dry. For me, this is where having a 4 bedroom house with only 2 people living in it and a very understanding wife comes into play. With the exception of the tranny, engine, and gas tank this whole tractor is currently sandblasted and sitting in a spare bedroom in my house. The day after I paint the parts for the tractor I will return them to the house where they will sit & cure for at least a week before I start the assembly process.

 

Edited by Achto
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Can I add don’t touch the bare metal with your bare hands :doh:as that’s the first place it will flash rust!

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:text-yeahthat: sounds like a big case of BTDT! :ychain: I know I have...

 

Edited by PeacemakerJack
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Got to work on my exhaust tonight. I want to put a stack on this tractor seems it's destine to be mainly a field tractor. I kinda wanted chrome but that doesn't seem to be in the budget & "chrome don't get the work done any way". Instead I'm working with what I have laying around the shop. I don't mind loud but I don't want obnoxious so I started with a baffle tube. I did the math & marked out the holes.

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After the 1/4" holes were drilled I cut most of the way through the tube in the middle of the hole sets so that I could install a stopper plate.

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After the stopper was in stalled I made the end cap for the inside. I made this cap fit fairly snug in side of my stack pipe. I will still probably drill some holes in the stack so I can weld this end in place. I don't want to have an annoying rattle later on down the road.

 

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Then made the piece to cap off the outside of the two pipes.

 

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Now that I am this far I would like some opinions on my math for this baffle. Hold on, I'm gonna try to get technical for a bit. :geek:

 

The area of the inside of a 1" water pipe is .86"

Area of a 1/4" hole is .049, it takes 18 1/4" holes to equal the area of the 1" pipe. I drilled 28 holes before and after the stopper plate equaling an area of 1.37" on each side of the plate.

The area of the out side of my baffle pipe is 1.77", the area of the inside of the stack in 3.14" do the subtraction and I'm left with an area of 1.37" between the two pipes.

 

Given these numbers. Does any one think that I will have any exhaust flow restriction issues? I just want to get a few opinions before I burn the out side cap in place. Don't wanna chance choking the engines power.

 

 

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The Mad Scientist is at work again!!! I wish I had some thoughts for you on the backpressure/sound/restriction situation.  It seems logical what you came up with but hopefully one of our resident brains can check in and give you an educated opinion.  Sure looks like a work of art to me!  

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Could you rig up something using  water and to see if the flow going in is the same coming out ? :confusion-shrug: 

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I work in an aftermarket exhaust facility, but we use "louver" tubes 99.5% of the time in our mufflers vs perforated tubing, if I get a chance to snag some for pictures later today I'll post them, and the smallest are 1.5" diameter, Jeff.

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Sounds like your math is right. can you just tack the outside on for a test run? I would think you would be ok if all the holes are deburred and chamfered where possible???

take a look at these for comparsion. note he is using 3" outside pipe but then necked back down to 1 1/4. 

 

 

My idea to make a stack was to use a piece of 1 3/4 or 2" pipe & fit a 1" coupler to it. Take an old Harley drag pipe baffle & wrap it in fiberglass & stuff it inside. Poor man's stack if you will but might be too loud?

Couple of threads on stack making here as well Dan.

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I use a similar method as Achto but I drill the exhaust holes on one side of the baffle and the intake on the opposite side. Makes the sound a little quieter.

Edited by JPWH
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21 minutes ago, WHX14 said:

My idea to make a stack was to use a piece of 1 3/4 or 2" pipe & fit a 1" coupler to it. Take an old Harley drag pipe baffle & wrap it in fiberglass & stuff it inside.

 

The pipe for the stack is 2" I.D, the baffle pipe is 1.5" O.D. The baffle pipe will clamp to the 1" water pipe. 

Edited by Achto
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:popcorn:Man—I love this site! So much good information/discussion here...

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Here they are..."louver" tube on left "perf" tube on right and the the two saucers are "silencers" on some models with a dual outlet muffler tip the "silencer" goes in one spout only gives it a truly distinct sound ( think Z24 Chevy Cavalier or the Z34 Lumina/Monte Carlo with V-6), also a resonator body with louver tube, Jeff.

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If 18 1/4" holes will handle one cylinder of a D200 you should be OK.  The K532 has same bore .25" less stroke  Your cubic inch is 29.87  thee K532 is 26.7 / cylinder

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@WVHillbilly520H Thanks for the pics. That's some cool stuff that you get to mess with.

 

 

Edited by Achto
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I took the tranny apart today, I found  some surprises but nothing too serious. I had figured that I had a bad axle bearing judging by the oil leaking out of the right hand side.

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Found the bearing for the mushroom gear was also bad. Some one had been in this tranny before me and used RTV instead of a gasket when they put the cases back together. I'm not sure but this may have put some extra force against the side of the bearings.

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One other minor disappointment was that the differential has aluminum side plates instead steel. My tractor is a '69 which should have came with a 5071 trans and have steel side plates on the diff. Now either mine is an early model & was made with a 5060 trans or the diff was changed out at some point.

 

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On a side note @stevasaurus, @WHX14 on the subject as to which way the diff bolts should face. The nuts on mine are one the right hand side ( facing the the mushroom gear ). Looking at the set up if the bolts don't extend past the pegs that are cast into the side plates, I don't see much difference as to which way they face.

IMG_20180204_092453661-min.jpg.0851d66a1edd576b58a90cbdb677bb88.jpg

 

Edited by Achto
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Out of this manual Dan which I'm guessing you already have....

492-4004.pdf

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Dino  thought there may be clearance issues installed backwards but I couldn't see any??

 

Mike @prondzy showed me some AL end caps that were cracked, possibly due to over torqueing?

 

Usage Chart from rom same manual

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Some things not right tho your tractor is a 1-6231?? Sure yours is not a '68? that would jive.

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Edited by WHX14
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BTW those shift rails give you any grief?

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1 hour ago, WHX14 said:

Some things not right tho your tractor is a 1-6231?? Sure yours is not a '68? that would jive

 

You're right, I guess I misread the model number.:doh: I must be gettin' old :D. Gotta make a title change here I guess.

The 5060 trans would be correct then.

 

1 hour ago, WHX14 said:

BTW those shift rails give you any grief?

 

After I slowed myself down & took a better look at how they are installed, it was no issue at all to remove them.

 

Edited by Achto
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About those nuts on the bolts and which way they face...the manual says the nuts should be on the left side of the differential.  It was my error to state the opposite in the video. (I wish I could correct it).  The manual says the nuts should face the left side in the 3 piece and the 3 and 4 speed transmissions.  The ends of the bolts interfere with the large gear of the mushroom gear in these other transmissions. 

   I agree, that in the 10 pinion transmissions, it looks like it does not really make a difference.  :)

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:bow-blue:Amazing work as always Dan! It is so much fun to watch “the mad scientist” at work.  Today was another crazy busy day for Caleb and I, but I very much enjoyed reading/seeing what you and several of my buds accomplished...:clap:

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7 hours ago, PeacemakerJack said:

Amazing work as always Dan! It is so much fun to watch “the mad scientist” at work.

Agreed !!

I love following along as all you folks skilled in the arts of metal working do your thing.

 

Dan, The welding on that guard looks WAY better than my bubble gum work.....

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Every resto has it's victories and setbacks, some times both in the same day.

 

I'll start with a victory. The throttle shaft was sloppy and needed a bushing repair. The correct bushing to repair my is a 1/4 x 7/16 x 1/8. I could not find one locally but I did find some bronze thrust washers/bushings that were 1/4 x 7/16 x 1/16 so I stacked 2 of them together to make the repair. I was also lucky enough that the top linkage was removable on my carburetor so I did not have to remove the throttle shaft in order to make the repair.

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Then the set back. I put a puller on the pulley for my hydro pump and of course it didn't just pull off. I hit the end of the puller with a hammer to try to jar it loose then... I noticed that I could not spin the pulley any more. I removed the cover for the pump gears and the drive gear had broke. Or in the words of Mick Jagger "She oopie, Shattered Shattered":(

 

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Moving on I hope to make some paint fly tomorrow.

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