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dells68

First start of K181 from auction

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Well, I finally got my 857 running I bought at the auction in Charlottesville.  I had a dead coil, nasty carb with lots of tar in it, plugged pulse fuel pump, fried regulator, and destroyed wiring harness.  I rebuilt the carb, disassembled the fuel

pump and cleaned it (still full of stale fuel and terrible amounts of dirt plugging it up) swapped out coils, and jumped it straight from the battery to start her.  She runs pretty good, but needs a head gasket, regulator, and rewire.  It did develop a peck about a minute after starting it.  It doesn't smoke or throw any oil.  Check out the video below and tell me what you think the peck is.  I'm suspecting timing and if that is it, how do I adjust it? 

 

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Thanks guys.  It just seems like it has a pronounced tick that you can especially hear near the end of the video.  It idles and runs great, just that tick.  I've always worried about engine noises.  I had a flathead Ford V8 eat itself just a few miles from home due to a busted fuel pump diaphragm one time, so I guess that has made me listen extra close to engine noises. :unsure:

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:woohoo:       To set the timing you can use the static timing method. You will probably need to remove the flywheel cover to see the marks for "S" spark and TDC. Probably a good time to replace points too.

Kohler static_timing.pdf

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Never know what your gonna get with the 7 & 8 hp Kohlers. Seems they tend to smoke more than the bigger Kohlers. That one has no smoke.

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Sounds like valve tap either to much clearance or bound/broken spring, dad went through 3 of those Kohlers since '76-'77 on our CC ORIGINAL and that was normally the "tick" if you could hear it over straight pipe,  the first one let go of a rod after the governor let it over ten while mowing one summer many many moons ago, Jeff.

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Thanks guys.  I'll pull the breather cover and check the valve clearances.  What should I set them on for this little motor?  It runs about the best of any Kohler I've piddled with on first run after a long nap.  I hope it's nothing major.  I've had them with rod knocks before and this doesn't sound anything like that.  It will idle down great and purrs.  I think somebody got tired of trying to get it to run because the oil looked like it had just been put in.  My guess is that the plugged pump, dead regulator, and plugged carb had them buffaloed.  I don't mind messing with it, it's more of a challenge I enjoy to get them back to life.  I just don't have a lot of experience with the internals.  If it has to do with fuel or electric, I'll keep going until I figure it out.  Overall, I'm pleased with how it runs, just like to isolate that tick and get rid of it.

 

 

Edited by dells68

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You should download the K series single service manual from the manual section here

 

Intake .006-..008

 

Exhaust .017-.019

 

 

The valves are not adjustable.  If they are to tight you file /grind them too loose buy new ones.

Edited by pfrederi
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7 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

You should download the K series single service manual from the manual section here

 

Intake .006-..008

 

Exhaust .017-.019

 

 

The valves are not adjustable.  If they are to tight you file /grind them too loose buy new ones.

Good to know Paul, while I'm replacing the old head gasket would be an excellent time to take care of this.  I'll try to pull the head and check everything out over the weekend.  Something going on with Emory every day - gotta go to my Dad's tonight, Trail Life meeting tomorrow night, Emory has a Dr. appt. in Charlottesville on Friday, and tubing trip to Winterplace in WV Saturday.  Shew, I'm dreading the rush!

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Well, we got home from Emory's appointment in Charlottesville around 8 tonight.  I went to the garage and checked the time and valve clearances on my K181.  The intake is on the money at around .007. The exhaust is a little tight at between .010 and .011. The points appear to be opening a little late.  If you look closely in the pic below, you'll see the "S" mark (I put a white paint pen mark on it) just at the bottom of the timing window.  Could these be causing my tick?  If so, which or is it both?  Should I center the timing mark and adjust the points?  Also, check out the picture of the high tech gaskets for the valve cover plate!  Thanks for your help!

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Dell, those valve clearances will not cause a tick. The exhaust, as you said, is a little tight. I would adjust the points to .019. That should get your timing really close and will probably quiet it down a bit.

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15 minutes ago, oldredrider said:

Dell, those valve clearances will not cause a tick. The exhaust, as you said, is a little tight. I would adjust the points to .019. That should get your timing really close and will probably quiet it down a bit.

Thanks Paul.  I'm really green when it comes to the mechanical side of these little engines, but I'm wanting to learn.  I guess the only way to learn is to jump in both feet first.  I really appreciate your help and guidance and all of the great folks here on RS.  That's what makes this hobby so great - all the people and great friendships I've made!

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On 1/12/2018 at 10:59 PM, dells68 said:

Thanks Paul.  I'm really green when it comes to the mechanical side of these little engines, but I'm wanting to learn.  I guess the only way to learn is to jump in both feet first.  I really appreciate your help and guidance and all of the great folks here on RS.  That's what makes this hobby so great - all the people and great friendships I've made!

My Kohler 8 has a similar tick. I'll be following along to see how yours is solved.

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My 857 does too (tick)Dells but also smokes like a chimney. Come to think about it the 753 does too so maybe Stevebo is on to something. Not going to worry about it till ii's time for a go thru tho.

Get her good and warm and change the oil. A couple of times in fact,  use cheap oil till you get to the keeper oil then try some sort of oil additive, Lucas , STP or Rislone or whatever. May be some sea foam or MMO. Helped mine a little till I can get to it.

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4 minutes ago, elcamino/wheelhorse said:

@ebinmaine Flea and tick spray is recommended by BRF

It's good advice and I appreciate that and I don't mean to sound ungrateful but obviously you guys are not reading the directions correctly. I only have tick. No flea. I can't use that stuff.

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Now.... you clowns ain't  helpin poor old Dells out! :lol:

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8 minutes ago, WHX14 said:

Now.... you clowns ain't  helpin poor old Dells out! :lol:

I ahhr too !!

He might be laughing so hard he can't hear his engine tick!

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Not the valves.  :handgestures-thumbupright:  I wonder if the spring broke on your ACR on the cam shaft.  It would make more noise going slow then at fast idle.  Your exhaust valve rides on that part.

   Also, maybe check if something is stuck around the flywheel and the flywheel cover.  Certain things like to get in there if an engine sets for a long time.

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Thanks guys!  Yes everything helps - especially laughter.  I'm going to adjust the time (points) put on my new ignition goodies, rewire, and regulator and give her another try before I pull the pan off.  I've got a 701 that has a 7hp kohler that ticks some, but is almost more of a wear knock than tick.  Both engines run really good, smooth, with very little to no smoke.  Probably two best running small engines I have - they hang in there with the 12hp on coyote for idle and throttle response and that's the best running Kohler I've had.  Love these little kohlers!

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Well, I actually felt strong enough to go down to the garage for just a few minutes.  I decided to adjust the time (points) on the little K181.  I got the timing mark on the flywheel setting dead center of the cutout in the bearing plate and set the points just to the point they open with a multimeter.  Then I did as @oldredrider suggested and gapped the points at fully open.  I've got to tell you, Paul really knows these engines!  He said that they should be set at .019 when open and that is exactly where they were when the timing mark was lined up dead center!!  Thanks again Paul!  It amazed me how much I had to move the points to achieve this gap and timing.  Just a tiny amount of movement of the flywheel is a lot of points travel.  Now I've just got to wait til all my parts come.  I'm going to try to clean the sheet metal up in the meantime, sand with fine sandpaper, and get ready for clear.  The hood has been resprayed with a slightly darker red, but appears to have been done some time ago.  I've rubbed it with lacquer thinner, but am hesitant to try to remove it all, as I might destroy an otherwise pretty nicely aged patina.  First pic is from the day I bought it at the auction other was from the ole web.

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Really good points Steve @stevasaurus......... and to hear the other fellas says you was all washed up!!!  You still got it mate! More'n welcome to toast a 8 HP at my place  any day :occasion-xmas: That's  why I suggested some kind of internal engine wash to clean up all the "been siiting awhile" junk out. 

Edited by WHX14
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Might confirm it's not just a loose, internal baffle on that rusty muffler...

that's playing tricks on your ears.  :confusion-shrug:

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6 hours ago, AMC RULES said:

Might confirm it's not just a loose, internal baffle on that rusty muffler...

that's playing tricks on your ears.  :confusion-shrug:

Thanks Craig.  I hadn't thought of that.  I did pull the muffler before I started it and a lot of scale came out.  Baffle very well could be loose or have a loose part.  I've got a NOS Kohler muffler for my 701 that I might try just for giggles, but it will go on the 701 this spring.  Not sure what I want to do for exhaust, probably one of the commonly available silver mufflers similar to the rust bomb that's on it now.

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