Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.
I was talking to my colleague the other day and I knew he had a wheel horse tractor. He was having issues with the transmission leaking fluid and there is a bad hub. But other than that it is in decent shape considering it has 2100+ hours on it. Needless to say he bought a new zero turn and no longer needs his horse so he gave it to me for FREE! He was the original owner and has all the original paperwork. It is a 1991 520h and I am still shocked how quiet it is compared to my Raider 12.
Anyway the good stuff...the pictures.
By Rob R
So I have a Honda gx390 OHV engine in one of my Sears Suburban's which runs great and has cut my lawn for at least 5 years, it has electric and pull start. The engine was installed by the PO as was the wiring. Since I have owned it, it has never charged correctly. It has two wires coming from the engine one black and one brown... The black is currently connect back to the B+ through a small 1 inch plastic connector that has the symbol for a Diode on it I suspected that this is the juice back to the battery don't know if this is also some sort of rectifier (very small like one inch X one inch plastic) I took the voltage reading off this and it was a very low reading ….. like 2.5 volts DC. The other brown wire to me was more like it this wire is just hanging not connected voltage measured 27-32 volt AC.... Both wires have the same push-on connector and I seriously considered switching the wires (connecting the hanging 27-32 volt AC to the Diode and see what happens but I didn't have the courage to do it).
Questions : Could I install a new circuit using a external rectifier to the 27 volt AC drop? Note there is only ONE wire from the stator putting out the 27 volts DC all the Wheel Horse rectifiers I have seen have TWO wires and a B+ tab. Would you try connecting the hot AC volt line to the current Diode/Rectifier? Could doing this take out the Diode, also If yes and this provides DC output how would I control the amount of charge to the battery. Do they make ONE wire (AC input Rectifiers) ?
Lots of questions I really need to solve this problem so that the battery stays charged and I can use the starter. Thanks in advance
My 416-8 tractor I have repowered with a small engine warehouse Briggs and Stratton 23hp vanguard engine two years ago. This week the tractor ran fine and I cut most of the grass until it rained out. I thought I would finish the lawn the next day but I will not run correctly. The tractor will crank but will not start. I have replaced the spark plugs and fuel filter already to no avail. I removed the spark plug and used starting fluid in the cylinder but It did not help any. When cranking the engine is the clear fuel filter housing supposed to fill up most of the way? It seems to be only filled about 1/4 of the way. I found a bad terminal in the engine to chassis 9 pin molex connector for the starter which I bypassed until I get a terminal remover tool. I bought a new molex connector body and terminals for this type of repair a few years ago. Another weird thing is when it did start and run in the past the switch is turned to start I have to turn on the head light switch for it crank over. Once it started I would turn off the head light switch to disengage the starter. The switch and head light trick has been working for two years. I am presuming I put the wrong terminal in the wrong spot in the 9 way connector 2 years ago but I worked fine other wise for two years. Is there any other trouble spots I need to test on the tractor?
I have a fluke dvom for testing purposes if needed.
Thank you in advance.
Hi! I'm a new member and sure this has been addressed here but how do you remove the gauges on a 520h '91?
I just bought a replacement tach on top right (sticking with all Toro to match) and almost cried when I saw how difficult replacement seems to be. Saw one post about bending the dash cover and loosening the metal piece behind the gauge flange but I tried and don't want to take the chance of breaking the dash cover. Is it necessary to remove the steering wheel and maybe the hydraulic levers to get to them? The voltmeter isn't registering either (bottom left) and it's even more difficult to get to so I don't think bending anything will work. Everything else works perfectly. Help!
Just purchased this 520h with just over 600 hrs and really worried about the rear valve seat issues but it purrs like a kitten and is a delight to hear - love it! The owner mostly restored everything and I'm finishing the job.
My MF 14 project. My friends uncle bought this new and did several modifications to the hydraulics and added front and rear lifts. Sadly the thing was beaten badly and left outside 20 years. I finally got him to sell it to me after 6 years of pleading. It’s total frame up with a 25hp Kawasaki transplant ready to go in it. I want something a little smaller than my 9020 Powermax that has great PTO power.