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This is my first born custom and is still under construction. Only one of the hoods, gutted frame, seat tray and seat are from my recently acquired 551 Suburban. A newer 3 speed transaxle and belt guard will round out the remaining Wheel Horse parts. The front axle is flipped and moved forward 6 inches. Its origin along with the tie rods and steering column comes from a 102 Cub Cadet. Taking 2 steps back for every advance is part of the fun. But now I'm at a loss and overwhelmed at all the V drive pulleys available at Phoenix pulleys. Can anyone suggest what pulley I should use with the 13 hp Predator? Thanks in advance

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:WRS:

Are you going for power or speed?

A larger pulley on the engine and/or a smaller pulley on the trans = faster

Whereas a smaller pulley on the engine and large on the trans = power

 

I'd go with a 4" OD pulley on the engine. If you then find you want more speed, then go smaller on the trans pulley.

I don't know the shaft size of that engine but it should be in the paperwork that came with the engine. Looks like 1" from the pic but...

Here's another place to buy pulleys

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Pulleys/

 

This pulley calculator may help you determine what size you want them.

https://www.blocklayer.com/pulley-belteng.aspx

Edited by wallfish
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:text-coolphotos:            I like the rear fender extensions you are adding. Good safety touch.           :handgestures-thumbupright:

:text-happynewyear:

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:WRS: Sweet ride!! I have 3" pulley on the engine with the 6.5hp Predator in my Suburban & I have a hard time keeping the front end on the ground. A 4" pulley with the 13hp will be a blast!! Just be careful on the take offs, you're not always going to be sure where it will go.:auto-layrubber::D

Edited by Achto
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1 minute ago, 953 nut said:

I like the rear fender extensions you are adding. Good safety touch.

Hey, the guy's building a hot rod, safety should have noth'n to do with it! :ychain:

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2 minutes ago, wallfish said:

Hey, the guy's building a hot rod, safety should have noth'n to do with it! :ychain:

My bad!      Hay those fender extensions make it look soooooo Koooool!

Image result for kool kustoms

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11 hours ago, wallfish said:

Are you going for power or speed?

A larger pulley on the engine and/or a smaller pulley on the trans = faster

Whereas a smaller pulley on the engine and large on the trans = power

 

I'd go with a 4" OD pulley on the engine. If you then find you want more speed, then go smaller on the trans pulley.

I don't know the shaft size of that engine but it should be in the paperwork that came with the engine

:text-yeahthat:

 

Good advice there...

We'd love to see some :text-coolphotos: if you have more.

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9 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

:text-yeahthat:

 

Good advice there...

We'd love to see some :text-coolphotos: if you have more.

1

Quick release wheelie bars made from 1960s Cub mower deck carrier - bars rest under axle, frozen slot hitch stops the bars  

Ross steering column and foot rests from 102 Cub Cadet 

Wallfish, thanks for info. If I go 4" drive pulley I will have 1:1 Is that OK?   

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11 minutes ago, Jonathan Karmelita said:

thanks for info. If I go 4" drive pulley I will have 1:1 Is that OK?

It really depends on what that trans came from. The mid 60s tractors used a 2 1/2 inch engine pulley but the later tractors used a 4 inch ? pulley. You can start with a 3 and graduate to a 4 if you think you need or want too. The 3 sells for about $8 and the 4 for about $12 on the site posted earlier so it's not a big gamble either way.

Make sure whatever you have holding those upside down spindles to the axle is good. You DO NOT want one of those coming off while riding it. I doubled things up by drilling and tapping a hole into the spindle for using bolts and thick washers. 

Adding some weight to the front might be a good idea since that motor is light compared to the cast iron blocks.

A little toe out of the front tires keeps them more stable or you may get that shopping cart effect and helps a little with steering too.

(just broke my own rule about safety and hot rods!)

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Wallfish, another thank-you for the additional info. Being this is my first custom I'm learning by trial and error. In doing so, I failed to realize my ideas may not be sound and appreciate your oversight. I will not be surprised if it falls apart. BTW my project is just something I have to do and for no special reason other than wasting time and money.    

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4 minutes ago, Jonathan Karmelita said:

I'm learning by trial and..........   error.

There is NO error.

Trial and... different trial.

 

Most important - learning ... and maybe have a bit of fun doin' it.

 

And keep the :text-coolphotos:  goin' !

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ebinmaine, indeed it is trial and different trial. My biggest fault is overkill, too much thought makes something too complex. KISS is always the goal and it is fun getting there

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10 hours ago, Jonathan Karmelita said:

biggest fault is overkill, too much thought

Hahaha!!

 

Seems you and I are a bit alike there.

I try.. I really do!

But then I overthink why I'm overthinking and forget to underthink what I was originally overthinking !!

:lol:

13 hours ago, wallfish said:

that shopping cart effect

John is that some kind of scientific technical term?

:ychain:

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If your using a single pulley, I got a bunch from Tractor supply. But then when I used the snow blower, I used the stock pulley, and used same motor, so thinking it's 1".  I had same motor on a '63 lawn ranger, and changed pully's around. I don't think I had an issue with lifting the front but was fast and way overpowered, but was fun lil machine. Wish I still had it.

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14 hours ago, wallfish said:

Make sure whatever you have holding those upside down spindles to the axle is good. You DO NOT want one of those coming off while riding it. I doubled things up by drilling and tapping a hole into the spindle for using bolts and thick washers. 

Adding some weight to the front might be a good idea since that motor is light compared to the cast iron blocks.

A little toe out of the front tires keeps them more stable or you may get that shopping cart effect and helps a little with steering too.

(just broke my own rule about safety and hot rods!)

There you go, first you make the rule then you turn around and break the rule!     :ychain:

5a4a4539221e8_wheelscomeoff.jpg.2ec67c7337e47827196ff4d0719fbf36.jpg

:text-happynewyear:

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Being this is my first custom I'm learning by trial and error. 

In doing so, I failed to realize my ideas may not be sound and appreciate your oversight. I will not be surprised if it falls apart.

That's how everyone does it when it comes to building customs. If something doesn't work or look right, do it again until it does! I end up with tons of scrapped and broken parts and ideas that don't make the final cut for every one I've built.

 

BTW my project is just something I have to do and for no special reason other than wasting time and money.

Glad to see there's another one! Sometimes it's just because it's there, sometimes it's just the challenge, and sometimes it's an indescribable and overwhelming feeling that just compels the mind to create something. No matter the reason for doing it, I find the building and creating part of it the most fun and satisfying.  Ooops, just got a little too deep there.

 

My biggest fault is overkill, too much thought makes something too complex. KISS is always the goal and it is fun getting there

The more complex, the more the challenge and the more different it will be. KISS certainly has it's place but IMO shouldn't ALWAYS be the goal. If you just want to KISS it, search craigslist, buy a tractor, bolt on a couple of parts and you're done.

 

 

:twocents-02cents:

3 hours ago, ebinmaine said:
16 hours ago, wallfish said:

that shopping cart effect

John is that some kind of scientific technical term?

:ychain:

 

Not sure exactly what it's called but the words were different when it happened at 30 mph and my butt bit a hole in the metal seat.

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12 minutes ago, wallfish said:

and my butt bit a hole in the metal seat.

:ROTF::ROTF::ROTF::ROTF::ROTF::ROTF::ROTF::ROTF::ROTF::ROTF:

 

I could see a minor panic settin' in when it's a soft seat "butt" a metal one is an indication of a true emergency !!!

 

 

 

Great words of wisdom on the other quotes btw.....:text-bravo:

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Regarding his original question, what style V-pulley accommdates the drive belt.  I recently purchased a drive pulley and it was tapered to a perfect V whereas the original V pulley has a flat area that the belt appears to ride on.

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7 hours ago, USHorse said:

  I recently purchased a drive pulley and it was tapered to a perfect V whereas the original V pulley has a flat area that the belt appears to ride on.

The deeper V pulley will handle different size belts. The original V pulley was designed for 5/8 belts

 

7 hours ago, USHorse said:

Regarding his original question, what style V-pulley accommdates the drive belt

Never saw that question but either one will work for a 5/8 wide belt. The drive belt should be 5/8 wide

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    Yesterday I saw how I might be able to mount the engine directly on the frame. Doing so would keep the gas tank inside the hood and the block centered with the frame. This creates the problem where the drive pulley is now way out of line but my hot rod will look much better than having the engine way offset.To get the belt back inline I'm going to add a set of ball bearing flanges between the engine and transaxle, 3/4" keyed shaft and two drive pulleys on the shaft. two belts instead of one. Don't know what its called and if it doesn't work I go back to plan A. 

thebigbearingstore.com

surpluscenter.com

     953nut thanks for the fix. Pushing her around the garage the spindle fell off.

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33 minutes ago, Jonathan Karmelita said:

To get the belt back inline I'm going to add a set of ball bearing flanges between the engine and transaxle, 3/4" keyed shaft and two drive pulleys on the shaft. two belts instead of one. Don't know what its called

 

It's called a jack shaft and the perfect solution to what you're describing. That will also give you more versatility when it comes to pulley sizes as you can adjust those to different sizes too.

It's probably best to center the weight of the engine over the frame as best as you can, and not so much visual appearance. The shaft side may look funny and naked at first but it will kind of "bulk up" if you add a belt guard.

 

 

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Posted (edited)

 

Oops, Sorry Wallfiish for giving credit to another for the spindle fix. I also thought about lock-tite or cutting off the axle protrusion which would expose the spindle rod. Smooth the two cut surfaces and pin them back together. Good to know the jackshaft is viable, so I ordered the parts.  

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Edited by Jonathan Karmelita
better discription

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6 hours ago, wallfish said:

 

It's called a jack shaft and the perfect solution to what you're describing. That will also give you more versatility when it comes to pulley sizes as you can adjust those to different sizes too.

It's probably best to center the weight of the engine over the frame as best as you can, and not so much visual appearance. The shaft side may look funny and naked at first but it will kind of "bulk up" if you add a belt guard.

 

 

:ROTF:

 

I'm so 5 years old. .....

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1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

:ROTF:

 

I'm so 5 years old. .....

This newbie is astonished that a senior member also didn't know the name of that thing I described. But then again I have been known to not have a sense of humor. LOL

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9 hours ago, Jonathan Karmelita said:

953nut thanks for the fix.

 

4 hours ago, Jonathan Karmelita said:

 

Oops, Sorry Wallfiish for giving credit to another for the spindle fix. I also thought about lock-tite or cutting off the axle protrusion which would expose the spindle rod. Smooth the two cut surfaces and pin them back together.

I like your idea on the collar secured with a roll pin. That will be a safe very cool idea. I think a 3/4" steel shaft collar  may work out better than the remainder of the axle.

5a4cc4cdbd59c_rollpin.JPG.bf3aa1218269f4840de1c74e87e06717.JPG

 

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