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The Onan in my 520H was running poorly so last month I took the heads off, decarboned, cleaned/reseated the valves, checked valve seats and reassembled with new gasket set. When installing intake manifold, I realized last year (carb cleaning) I forgot to hook up vacuum line from manifold to gauge. Hooked it up correctly this time and ran great. First blizzard yesterday and started snow blowing. After about 15 minutes the became noticeably louder with less power.
I was wondering firstly if anyone has any idea what went wrong?
Also, I was thinking about repowering with a Honda or Vanguard and would love opinions on which way to go? Also, should I go with an engine or kit and which company? I’m good at fabrication, etc.
Thanks in advance!
By MAD MARK
Bought this 310-8 for $100 came with a plow but no engine. Just want to put in the cheap HF $99 Predator 6.5hp. Searched on here and found that people have done this but I cant really find any information on what they needed to do to get it to work. Looks like about a 2" engine plate since the height of the PTOs are different and the mounting bolt locations are different. Besides that, any more tips or pointers?
Just making this into a cheap plow tractor, I saw the linkage below the 310-8 is not like below my 312-8. It does not have a chain lift and just a straight bar. I mounted the blade to my 312-8 and it worked fine. Guessing the bar is so I can push down on the blade if need be? Is this something included in the plow package I missed before? Any insight there?
About 30+ years ago my dad who is now 80 was working in a sheet metal (HACV) factory and decided to make himself a rear clevis hitch mounted scraper blade for his CC 1200 to repair our 1/4 mile long driveway after winter and rain storms, so with an old pair of cast iron plow shares he got his radius to break a piece of 12? gauge steel for the moldboard approx 6" tall by 48" long with 1/4"x2.5" flat bar for the wear edge (that was later upgraded to a car leaf spring), he also bent a piece of 3/16" into a "U" for the swivel mount to the moldboard then a 3/8"x2.25" flat bar for the lift/pull/swivel arm, finished off with the clevis to attach which he also drilled to be able to tilt for pulling side ditches, long story shortened, it worked very well for many years with my body being extra weight when necessary, after I moved out to find my own way he added brackets for extra weight, fast forward to the past few winters it sat outside the shed where he accidentally ran it over in the snow with my Kioti, so the last couple months I've been in the process of fixing it for him/myself and here's a few shots of the broken to fab to final (hopefully a bit better and easier to angle plus turn for pushing version) waiting on paint stages that I just finished up today... Father's Day, Jeff.
Hey guys, I'm new to the forum (very thankful to have found it) and a fairly new Wheel Horse owner. I believe my tractor is an early 1960's E32 Lawn Ranger. I haven't been able to pin point the age or exact model yet. Here is the problem I am currently having. My barn find did not have an engine so I used a predator 212cc as a replacement. I have found a pretty good pulley for the engine, but seem to be having trouble finding the best length to utilize the clutch/brake function. I have moved the engine back a bit to allow clearance for the hood. I have two 1/2" v-belts that I am trying to work with, one is a 61" and the other is a 62".
I have also read and recently learned that the belt cover must be on to make sure the belt doesn't spin off. However, I can't seem to get the rear transmission pulley to stop spinning when I engage the clutch pedal. The belt definitely seems loose enough when using the 62" since it will literally fall off when I engage the pedal all the way. It even seems a bit loose when only pressing half way down. Anyway, I have posted a few pics to show what I am talking about. Any help on proper belt tension would be greatly appreciated. Glad to be here!