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Question on a cab install

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I was all proud of myself.  Found a cab that fits my tractor using the cross reference that someone here gave me.  Found and downloaded the manual for said cab on this site.  Great, so far I don't have to bother anyone.  Well, I tried to install it today and ran into a problem right off.  I know how I can get around it but I really want to know what others are doing.  300 series tractor and cab #79943.  The funny thing is, the instructions that I took off the site have 79943 on the first page but 79941 on all the rest.  Everything looks alike so on with my question.  My tractor still has the nice rubber foot pads that came on it and they are still in great shape.  For those of you who have this situation, what did you do?  I could drill them out to get to the bolts I need.  really don't want to but I could.  Just take the pads off for the winter.  Would rather have them on but I don't know that it's a huge deal.  Or I could cut around them to make the framework fit.  I really don't want to do that because if I decide I don't care for the cab, then my pads would be trashed.  This thing is partially assembled and I'm thinking I should just take it apart and do it right but I need to get past this first hurdle. 

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See if you can find a set of boards with out the pads to drill and swap them out when the cab is on. I take the cab off every spring so on an older tractor I had to drill holes for I just got a cheap set of boards.

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I guess that you have the U shaped piece that goes over the floorboard with a set bolt up from the bottom.  I have two tractors with the thick pads and one that has thin pads that I put the cab on.  If I ever to decide to use the cab on a thick pad tractor, the pads will come off and I will use some non-skid tape.  The pads should come off for cleaning from time to time to prevent rusting.  If you need to replace damaged push pins, I did find a source for a close match.  That set bolt can be rough on the floorboards, so I made round steel cups for over the bolt ends.

 

I don’t know why you mentioned drilling the floorboards, it would be good if you could explain exactly what you have.

Edited by lynnmor

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2 hours ago, wallfish said:

I-beam clamp

:text-yeahthat:          Any electrical supply store will sell them to you, Unistrut beam clamps.

 

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I had a 3-500 series cab on a 73 no name. Holes needed to be drilled so I got extra boards.

 

 

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9 hours ago, lynnmor said:

I guess that you have the U shaped piece that goes over the floorboard with a set bolt up from the bottom.  I have two tractors with the thick pads and one that has thin pads that I put the cab on.  If I ever to decide to use the cab on a thick pad tractor, the pads will come off and I will use some non-skid tape.  The pads should come off for cleaning from time to time to prevent rusting.  If you need to replace damaged push pins, I did find a source for a close match.  That set bolt can be rough on the floorboards, so I made round steel cups for over the bolt ends.

 

I don’t know why you mentioned drilling the floorboards, it would be good if you could explain exactly what you have.

By drilling I just meant through the pad, not the floorboard.  Just enough to get to the mounting bolts.  Yeah, I can see where you could take that the wrong way.  I like the idea of another set of boards.  Never thought of that and I think I may have a set here already.  They're not the easiest things to get to at the moment so I may go with taking the pads off this year.  I was afraid to do that for fear of breaking the push pins.  If you could post your source for the ones you found, that would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks for the great suggestions.  I'm going thru all this and probably wont even get to use this if this winter is a repeat of the last two.

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Here is where I got the push pins: Pins

They are shorter, but they work.  I like not having so much extra hanging down anyway.

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4 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

Here is where I got the push pins: Pins

They are shorter, but they work.  I like not having so much extra hanging down anyway.

Those look great!  Thanks.

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Keep us posted with a picture of your install when done. We luv pictures around here. I have to put my cab on to.

Winters around the corner. (Meaning snow)  :occasion-snowman:

 

Glenn

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18 minutes ago, JERSEYHAWG / Glenn said:

Keep us posted with a picture of your install when done. We luv pictures around here. I have to put my cab on to.

Winters around the corner. (Meaning snow)  :occasion-snowman:

 

Glenn

I'll see what I can do about pictures.  Usually, once I get going and everything is coming together I completely forget to stop and take pictures.  Hmmm, sounds like a New Years resolution to me.

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Ok, I need a little more guidance here.  Working on the cab install tonight and I'm thinking I either did something wrong or these cabs are not made for tractors with a manual lift.  In the first series of pictures, tell me, am I correct in what I did?  The lift lever interferes with the cab frame.  Seems like that shouldn't be.  It's important to note here that I didn't put the frame together.  It was already together when I bought it and it was installed on a Toro tractor that was not a 300, 400 or 500 series.  The PO may have moved things around that I am not seeing.

 

5a29c7482d32b_Cab1.JPG.f33890cc53ca6c584107bb9b76f1f0cb.JPG5a29c757c2a63_Cab2.JPG.5c11c4acfcd242dac842e2ac0c0cbf47.JPG5a29c768ec4ef_Cab3.JPG.6789e9f84eb2d2537186f4f29bc40da5.JPG

 

Also, the crank to turn the chute on the blower doesn't even make it to the cab frame.  This may answer itself when I get the outer sheeting on but for now, wha????

 

5a29c77ed08aa_Cab4.JPG.3275d7e9f57637811e668061e8c0fbb7.JPG

 

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I can't crank my snow thrower chute from inside the cab either. :twocents-02cents:

20171119_185806.jpg.ba9267717e9f68ab8b76c066330d4c8a.jpg

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As far as not making it into the cab I cut the crank rod and welded in a piece of same diameter round stock to lengthen it into the cab. 

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Like this...no cutting no welding...and yes the 2stage and single crank rods are the same length, Jeff.

IMAG2445.jpg

IMAG1765.jpg

IMAG1766.jpg

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Looks like the previous owner bent the vertical frame piece away from the hood.  Mine isn't bow-legged and runs close to the tractor, so close that the fabric barely fits behind it.

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9 hours ago, lynnmor said:

Looks like the previous owner bent the vertical frame piece away from the hood.  Mine isn't bow-legged and runs close to the tractor, so close that the fabric barely fits behind it.

I wondered about the bend but it sure looked factory.  I'll attempt to straighten it a little and see what happens.  As long as I can get it to clear enough to let the blower sit down on the ground, I'll be happy.  Thanks.

 

As for the crank to turn the chute, I think I'll see what kind of a pain it is to use it as it is before I alter anything.  If anything, I may just fabricate a whole new piece rather than add to the existing.  I would like to keep the stock piece stock if I can.  The new one just wouldn't have the fancy handle but I can live with that.  Thanks guys, I'll let you know how it turns out.

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The extension I made for the chute crank can be taken off and returned to stock, I didn't alter anything, just took 1/2" or less round stock drilled through then another long piece of existing size drilled to accept cotter/hair pins easy to install and remove, look real close at this pic, Jeff.

Screenshot_20171208-080725.png

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5 minutes ago, WVHillbilly520H said:

The extension I made for the chute crank can be taken off and returned to stock, I didn't alter anything, just took 1/2" or less round stock drilled through then another long piece of existing size drilled to accept cotter/hair pins easy to install and remove, look real close at this pic, Jeff.

Screenshot_20171208-080725.png

Yes, I'm sorry, I did catch that and like the idea.  I just figured that if I'm going to do that, I may as well just make a whole new one.  This will probably be my go to if I decide not to make a new crank.  It's a great idea, thanks.  Now if I really want to be creative (and lazy) I can just make a straight rod and put a cordless drill on the end to turn the chute.  Nah, I'm not quite that bad yet!

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For the extension, I just turned down one end and drilled the other, simple to do.

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21 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

For the extension, I just turned down one end and drilled the other, simple to do.

Yeah, I have an idea on how I want to do that if it comes to that.  My main problem right now is getting this to fit right to where I can lower the blower the whole way.  I need to bend that bar back but it sure looks like a factory bend to be.  I don't want to kink it.

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I'll be putting my cab on late today or early tomorrow, maybe I can post a photo.

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I have an older cab that came on a 417 that I put on my 520H but here's pics of the frame on mine, and I used existing holes in the floor boards while only "trimming" a small bit out of the inside of the pads for the upright closest to the dash tower, Jeff.

IMAG3823.jpg

IMAG3826.jpg

IMAG3828.jpg

IMAG3825.jpg

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27 minutes ago, WVHillbilly520H said:

I have an older cab that came on a 417 that I put on my 520H but here's pics of the frame on mine, and I used existing holes in the floor boards while only "trimming" a small bit out of the inside of the pads for the upright closest to the dash tower, Jeff.

IMAG3823.jpg

IMAG3826.jpg

IMAG3828.jpg

IMAG3825.jpg

Interesting mounting on that one.  Looks very sturdy.  I got mine done.  I'll post some pics as soon as they load.

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