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Eric Friedrichsen

Plow Modification

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That is an excellent modification . Does the 14 inch bar under the plow frame slip or do you have it welded or other wise attached to the frame. After pushing leaves most today my left arm is about worn out. Thanks for the great idea.

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That is a well engineered mod.   But when we reach level 7 {70-79}  we need to go with hydro lifts.  :ROTF:

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The bar is not attached. I just angle it and lever it underneath the frame and it goes very easily.  It is held in place solely by spring pressure which also holds it centered.

A couple of test runs I did and it seems to work fine. Only a good session working the plow will tell whether or not there are any problems.

 

Eric

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56 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

That is a well engineered mod.   But when we reach level 7 {70-79}  we need to go with hydro lifts.  :ROTF:

I have electric lift kit for the 416-8 but got it too late to install before pushing leaves required , o well spring is coming.

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@Eric Friedrichsen  Very good modification and explanation of what you did. I can see that you (or a PO) did a little front wheel/hub modification too!

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46 minutes ago, KC9KAS said:

@Eric Friedrichsen  Very good modification and explanation of what you did. I can see that you (or a PO) did a little front wheel/hub modification too!

 

Great work and please show 'n tell us about the front wheel modifications. Pic's too would be nice. :handgestures-thumbupright:

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:text-coolphotos:      Great post and explanation of your modification. I too am at level 7, don't get a lot of snow here but hydro lift is the way to go for me.

5 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

when we reach level 7 {70-79}  we need to go with hydro lifts.

That is why I bought the 418C. Loaded the rear tires plus weights and tire chains going on soon. Now I  can actually use a solid link and get some down force, couldn't do that with the 1055, although it will be my #2 snow pusher.

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great idea! i look forward to your progress report  mike in mass.

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Tankman,

 

About 4 years ago I picked up a much abused 414-8 and restored it to be a working tractor.  I found the steering to be excessively stiff and after fooling around with all of the adjustments I still couldn't get the steering effort to be acceptable.  On RS I found a very good thread describing changing to the 520HC front end (reduction gear steering and swept forward axles).  The thread also described using trailer hubs and wheels.  I followed the advice on the thread and found it to be excellent. The only mod I did to the hubs was to drill and tap them for grease fittings.

 

The mods I did to the tractor are: 

    520HC front end

    520HC reduction gear steering

 

 

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Last year, I picked up a 417 hydro and it is hard to steer compared to any of the other Cs, 300s, or the 520 that I have.

I can't see any difference in the steering components between these tractors.   Do all the 400 series steer hard?  Why?

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Oops, I hit the wrong button on the computer and it posted the note before I was finished. Here are the rest of the mods I did:

    trailer hubs (modified with zerk fittings) and trailer wheels

    13 " steering wheel

    pillow block bearings on upper steering shaft and lower steering shaft forward, zerk fittings added to all bearings, shimmed all steering bushings

    electric fuel pump

    rewired entire tractor to eliminate nuisance "safety" switches (I know, I know, I am careful). 

    added amp meter and hour meter

    changed engines to a Kohler M14T that I modified to have an alternator and high torque starter motor (kept the manual rope starter), Old M14S I'll rebuild for a spare

    added a brake pedal return stop

    added electric tail lights and flashing red LED light

    2000 lumen LED headlights

There is still a little play in the steering but it is much better and lighter than it was.

 

Eric 

    

 

 

I don't know Ed.  I only have experience with an 857 and a commando 800 and they were fine.  I think something that can aggravate the steering is the weight of the  cast iron M14 and the surface area of the wide front tires.  The reduction gear steering + the 13" steering wheel + 25lbs air pressure in the front tires and adjusting the toe in perfectly all makes the steering acceptable.

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Success!!  I plowed twice during the last snowstorm. The first time was 5" of wet snow and the second time was 1".
The modification worked perfectly.  Even though the lower bar is only held in position by spring pressure it did

not move.  The force I have to exert on the up/down handle is about half what it was before the modification, especially

in the up motion when the plow is in the down position.  Ideally I would like to find a spring with a little more 

spring rate.  The spring I used was a McMaster Carr:

       94135K92, Length 8", Ext. Length 13.5", Breakout Pressure 11.62lbs, Rate 6.25 lbs/inch, cost 10.92ea

The next spring they have available is:

       94135K93, Length 8", Ext. Length 12.73", Breakout Pressure 15.14lbs, Rate 8.36 lbs/inch, cost 12.30ea

I would like to find a spring with the following approximate specs.

       length 8", Ext. Length 13.0", Breakout Pressure 13lbs, rate 7.25 lbs/inch

I am a little afraid to use the McMAster Carr k93 spring as it might not give the plow enough down pressure.  The K92

spring worked just fine and there was no float of the plow.  Somewhere there is a balance point where the plow will not

have enough down force.  

If I find a better spring I'll let you know.  Meanwhile the K92 spring works just fine I am just trying to fine tune the application.

 

Eric

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