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Sarge

Buffalo Model 15 bench top drill press

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Sarge

A friend of mine had recently asked for some advice on restoring an old drill press he'd gotten out of an old house the bank had taken over to sell - they call him to come clean them out and do the prep work .

 

5a16d64e989ac_20171122_1721331.jpg.3c4073e7ba72bdf756c1e364cec7588c.jpg

 

It's an old Buffalo model 15 and not in bad shape . He had tried to remove the spindle and top pulley to check the bearings over as I had instructed , most times the grease has hardened into a solid mass and needs to be cleaned out . I had told him to rent a bearing splitter to remove the pulley - obviously he skipped that step and tried to pry it off , so I gotta try to track that part down . I believe some of the older Delta models used the same spindle pulley so maybe I can find one , not too many of these model 15's left around . One thing that is really odd is the table surface - it's perfect with not one mark of shame in it , odd for being a 1941 and most have a pretty good smiley across them - like my Clausing did ...

 

It will be awhile , but I'll try to get some more pics and better details . The clock spring is intact , which is also rare and I'm thankful I don't have to retrofit one from the list of generic springs available since they never seem to work quite right . Spindle feels tight and the main spindle teeth feel good so far - it would be nice if they aren't chipped or worn as so many usually are . He had already taken the old Westinghouse motor into a motor shop and had it gone through with a new switch and cord - it's in excellent shape including it's original labels which is pretty rare to find . Spindle handles are in great shape as well , again - rare to see that and maybe this old girl just wasn't used that much . Evidence shows it lived in someone's wood shop during it's recent life , a good thing as they get worked a lot easier overall . I'll probably go through it mechanically and just clean it up and use it on the welding table - it's a perfect size for that .

 

Sarge

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ACman

Hope you can find what you need . If not do you know a guy who could make one. :)

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Sarge

Just missed one the day I picked it up - a guy on the big auction site sold that exact pulley in nice shape and they don't show up often either . I think the shaft is a 7 spline so some of the older Delta/Dunlap/Sears and a few others shared those stack pulleys . Haven't had time to dig into it - need to find the drawings off the OWWM site and get some details on it as I'm not that familiar with the Buffalo line . Spent most of Turkey day in the shed putting the pump back in the D180 - will finish the rest of it today . I almost need to finish the Clausing first - it's parts are taking up a lot of space in the shop and I don't have the room to tear into another one , even if it is just a small bench model .

 

You should see some of the pulleys a few guys have made on the OWWM site - they are works of art . Do you have the means to cut the spline teeth to the internal bore ???

 

Sarge

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classiccat

I wasn't expecting to see another Buffalo 15 on a Wheel Horse Forum!  

 

I picked one up for $20 a few years ago...everything was seized solid and the guy that picked it up for me bent the motor shaft (Westinghouse 1/3Hp).

 

I scored a similar motor off of ebay the other day and now I have a bullet proof press.

 

I swapped out all of the bearings EXCEPT the one with the pulley.

 

A blind pilot puller (OEMTOOLS 27059) on a slide hammer made short work of the spindle bearings.  If I had to remove that top pulley bearing, I'd probably try punching it out with a wooden dowel; the splined section looks like pot-metal. 

 

nrYC4m2.jpg

 

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Sarge

I never have bought a blind pilot puller - maybe a good excuse to get one. Generally have just used the hook tool on a slide hammer as most times I just replace the bearings anyway. I do wonder how many of these little buggers are left out there - a very heavily built and solid iron machine. One of our old local power plants has the larger old floor model still in use in their shop - it was a used unit when the place was built in 1955.

 

Grabbed the part number off the photo and found that one - was it your review on Amazon about the Buffalo...? Crazy how much you can track down out of one lousy photo and a part number - not to freak out a newbie and welcome aboard ! Appreciate the included info about the coupler nut being both 5/8" and 3/4" capable - nice info as well as the real reach of the tool , wish more sellers would include that info and not have to rely on reviews. I added that one to the list since it will fit both slide hammers I have here. Thanks for that...

 

Still haven't hunted down a spindle pulley - will keep looking.

 

Sarge

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classiccat
25 minutes ago, Sarge said:

I never have bought a blind pilot puller - maybe a good excuse to get one. Generally have just used the hook tool on a slide hammer as most times I just replace the bearings anyway. I do wonder how many of these little buggers are left out there - a very heavily built and solid iron machine. One of our old local power plants has the larger old floor model still in use in their shop - it was a used unit when the place was built in 1955.

 

Grabbed the part number off the photo and found that one - was it your review on Amazon about the Buffalo...? Crazy how much you can track down out of one lousy photo and a part number - not to freak out a newbie and welcome aboard ! Appreciate the included info about the coupler nut being both 5/8" and 3/4" capable - nice info as well as the real reach of the tool , wish more sellers would include that info and not have to rely on reviews. I added that one to the list since it will fit both slide hammers I have here. Thanks for that...

 

Still haven't hunted down a spindle pulley - will keep looking.

 

Sarge

 

Ha...I forgot that I left a review! 

 

I started to grab the welder as soon as I thought it wouldn't fit my slide hammer... and when I tilted it to start estimating the thread size/pitch, I noticed that 2nd set of threads!

 

I couldn't get back to amazon fast enough to let other buyers know!  :)

 

I'll have to grab some more pics / video of it... I had to make room for my "new" C85!

Edited by classiccat

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Sarge

I wish more were designed that way - easier to build one off adapters for other uses of tools, great catch. I fear I'll never find another top spindle pulley for mine - it's common these get knocked over and broken or folks using the wrong tool to disassemble them for service/restoration. Old cast parts are brittle beyond belief, especially these pulley stacks. Glad you got yours off - you're lucky not to damage/break it . Even if dropped on concrete, they are done for...easily.

 

I like the other style/design from OTC, but they don't have a very good track record and seem to break easily, too bad.

 

Sarge

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classiccat
2 hours ago, Sarge said:

I wish more were designed that way - easier to build one off adapters for other uses of tools, great catch. I fear I'll never find another top spindle pulley for mine - it's common these get knocked over and broken or folks using the wrong tool to disassemble them for service/restoration. Old cast parts are brittle beyond belief, especially these pulley stacks. Glad you got yours off - you're lucky not to damage/break it . Even if dropped on concrete, they are done for...easily.

 

I like the other style/design from OTC, but they don't have a very good track record and seem to break easily, too bad.

 

Sarge

 

My apologies Sarge, I did NOT remove that spindle pulley.  I took 1 look at those pot-metal splines and chickened out!   It actually spins freely w/out any play... "you've gotta know when to fold'em" :lol:

 

Setup a search on fleabay...guys are parting out these Buffalo presses on occasion.  You'll be the 1st to know if I find one!

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Sarge

I'm always on the hunt for that and other parts - especially the lift mechanism for my '52 Atlas/Clausing model 1810 in pieces all over the shop. Working on the column more tomorrow to finish cleaning it, welding a few more scars and get it hot wax coated, then onto welding other worn/broken parts from kids beating it up. That one is a monster project, parts are expensive and I haven't even touched the original Atlas motor yet. The table/head lift's gears are badly worn, doubt they will work much longer so I'm planning some experiments with special filler rod on the tig - hoping they are cast steel but I doubt it . Almost 800lbs of iron but it is very well built - this one has the extended length spindle on it and some really huge double roller bearings, built like a tank. Very unique table and head lift setup - every drill press should be built like this one. Oh, and got lucky as this model had the larger production table w/slots and oil channels..:)

 

The Buffalo will probably be left in a patina finish and just oil it up good - bolt it to the 1,100lb welding table and leave it there, need a small one like that anyway. Also have a Delta DP220 that's in great shape - got to hunt some reduction pulley stacks for both it and I'd like a stand alone set w/smooth bore for a column-mounted reduction on the Clausing to help protect the original motor from the VFD unit .

 

Too many projects at once, as usual.

 

Sarge

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classiccat
On 2/18/2018 at 9:32 PM, Sarge said:

I'm always on the hunt for that and other parts - especially the lift mechanism for my '52 Atlas/Clausing model 1810 in pieces all over the shop. Working on the column more tomorrow to finish cleaning it, welding a few more scars and get it hot wax coated, then onto welding other worn/broken parts from kids beating it up. That one is a monster project, parts are expensive and I haven't even touched the original Atlas motor yet. The table/head lift's gears are badly worn, doubt they will work much longer so I'm planning some experiments with special filler rod on the tig - hoping they are cast steel but I doubt it . Almost 800lbs of iron but it is very well built - this one has the extended length spindle on it and some really huge double roller bearings, built like a tank. Very unique table and head lift setup - every drill press should be built like this one. Oh, and got lucky as this model had the larger production table w/slots and oil channels..:)

 

The Buffalo will probably be left in a patina finish and just oil it up good - bolt it to the 1,100lb welding table and leave it there, need a small one like that anyway. Also have a Delta DP220 that's in great shape - got to hunt some reduction pulley stacks for both it and I'd like a stand alone set w/smooth bore for a column-mounted reduction on the Clausing to help protect the original motor from the VFD unit .

 

Too many projects at once, as usual.

 

Sarge

 

Here's the spindle pulley you need...  warning: you better be sitting down when you see the price ...he obviously knows its value. 

 

odB4QRA.jpg

 

Q4YYEAa.jpg

 

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Sarge

Yup, that's the animal. Huge thanks,  got it saved and will jump on it later. Laptop blew up two days ago,  so I'm stuck with an 8" tablet or my phone..Not good for the eyes, lol.

I need to go check out the Delta spindle pulley, suspect the are the same and those are worth half of that...

 

Sarge

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Sarge

Delta pulleys are indeed a different bearing depth and won't work. The original Buffalo pulley showed up yesterday and is in good condition. Need to test and clean the bearings in it or replace them,  they are a bit noisy. The price hurt, but they rarely ever show up used and I'd like to have it in service. Not sure if I'll bother painting it, probably just go through it mechanically and use it for a bench drill for small parts.

 

Appreciate the heads up, not many of these animals left around and this machine is in otherwise excellent condition.

 

Sarge

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Sarge

Wow, that's great info - thanks. I see they even have the spindle pulley in stock, but no price. I already bought a used one in nice shape, but great to have an option.

 

Sarge

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oliver2-44
On ‎2‎/‎18‎/‎2018 at 8:32 PM, Sarge said:

I'm always on the hunt for that and other parts - especially the lift mechanism for my '52 Atlas/Clausing model 1810 in pieces all over the shop. Working on the column more tomorrow to finish cleaning it, welding a few more scars and get it hot wax coated, then onto welding other worn/broken parts from kids beating it up. That one is a monster project, parts are expensive and I haven't even touched the original Atlas motor yet. The table/head lift's gears are badly worn, doubt they will work much longer so I'm planning some experiments with special filler rod on the tig - hoping they are cast steel but I doubt it . Almost 800lbs of iron but it is very well built - this one has the extended length spindle on it and some really huge double roller bearings, built like a tank. Very unique table and head lift setup - every drill press should be built like this one. Oh, and got lucky as this model had the larger production table w/slots and oil channels..:)

 

The Buffalo will probably be left in a patina finish and just oil it up good - bolt it to the 1,100lb welding table and leave it there, need a small one like that anyway. Also have a Delta DP220 that's in great shape - got to hunt some reduction pulley stacks for both it and I'd like a stand alone set w/smooth bore for a column-mounted reduction on the Clausing to help protect the original motor from the VFD unit .

 

Too many projects at once, as usual.

 

Sarge

 

@Sarge

Can you educate me on the "hot wax coating"

I restored my dads old Craftsman drill press for my son, and want to find more of these heavy old tools for my shop!

 

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Sarge

It's a bit tricky as you really need a good quality heat gun - some temperature sticks isn't a bad idea either to avoid heating the tube too much. I try to heat the tube to around 125*F, not far below the burn off point of paraffin. I used a temperature gun to monitor the metal - getting around 24" of the post hot, then applying the wax.

 

Most drill machinery uses cast spun steel for their posts, some are cast iron but those are rare. Hot waxing forces the wax deep enough into the pores to easily prevent rust and provide some lubrication of the table, ect. You really can't use a propane torch or a flame, paraffin wax will burn easily and not penetrate the iron. I had to heat an area, apply the wax stick heavily and used a mild buffing belt on the belt grinding machine to further heat work it into the metal. Repeating this several times ensures a good, solid and deep coating in the metal, after that it gets a really good coat of Johnson's paste wax, again - buffed out with the belt grinder. So far, after 4-5 months of sitting against the wall in the basement, there are no signs of rust yet and it's held the shine left from the waxing process.

 

I much prefer a hot wax on those posts over traditional oil coatings - it's hard to get any oil coating that won't eventually become sticky over time. This leaves the post dry feeling to the touch, but protected.

 

Sarge

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oliver2-44

Thanks @Sarge I'm going to try that !

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