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FatJackDurham

D-200 with everything, $1800 - Good buy?

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Hi all,

 

I am sorely tempted at this tractor, a D-200 with EVERYTHING for $1800. What do you think? Worth it? Good price? Fair Price? Bad Price?

 

 

Edited by Sparky
Craigslist link deleted per forum rules

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If it all functions without issues, then it is perhaps not completely wrong, but judging a price with no idea of condition is really not a sound practice :-)

 

Some of it look to be in rather rough condition, and other parts look OK. I would try and set a realistic price on the "with everything", and work from there.

 

I have recently bought a heap of items, so this is how I would value it. Others may think differently:

 

Deck 150

Tiller 300-400

Grader blade 200

Snow blower 300 max

Plow/snow blade 100-150 max

Which leaves just about 700 for the D200 itself.

 

It all comes down to condition of it all, and what it could be worth to you..................... :-) And remember, if a lot of work is needed, parts can be hard to find, and often costly to the D series.

 

 

Edited by Skipper
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What is your definition of everything?  Attachments or just Rear PTO 3 pt turning brakes.  Biggest thing what is the condition of the hydro.  Get it hot put it up against an immovable object will she spin her tires on pavement or dig holes in packed gravel???  Steering is often shot but that is reasonably repairable.

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I'd put on my poker face,go look at it,try it out,if you like it,offer 15 hundred.Gotta remember........15 bills doesn't buy much of a tractor at Lowes,Home Depot,Tractor supply,etc.The good thing about buying a used tractor is,not everybody is capable of making repairs on one.Some people just have to buy new. .Good luck.Keep us posted on your decision. Plus,you'll be impressed with the size and power of that Big D.

Edited by Pollack Pete
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Check what has already been said. Here are a couple things I would keep in mind.

Check the PTO clutch, can be expensive to fix. Should be easy to do with the tiller on the back, just try the tiller out in some dirt. If it slips it just might need adjusted, but if not it can be a chore to rebuild it. 

Make sure all the parts are there for the attachments. If you do not know look in the manual section and that should help you out. If anything have the seller hook things up to see if they work.

The front blade is not the one that goes with this unit, weather or not it has been modified to work is something that I would have the seller show me how to hook it up.

I have a D200 and I can assure you that they are a beast, does a real nice job plowing snow and tilling the garden. Although $1800 isn't cheap its not bad for what you are getting.

Good Luck.

 

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It has the snow thrower, 48 mower deck, grader blade, tiller, and not correct dozer blade. If everything works fine on the tractor its a fair price. $1500 is good anything less is great. Good luck.

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Biggest sticking points on a D that I've learned -

 

Pre-'76 models had a weak differential bolt issue - this resulted in a lot of broken diff cases . See if it's been welded or repaired with JB Weld on the bottom side , which is common . Those bolts can shear the heads off/break and lodge them into the rear axle case and bull gear - breaking the cast iron case easily . Post '76 models were changed with a heavier set of side plates for the differential and heavier bolts - so it's a better rear axle to start with .

 

All D's that used the Sundstrand can have several issues - the Sundstrand unit is extremely strong , but if no one ever changed the oil they can wear certain parts in the pump and hydrostatic motor that are quite expensive and technical to repair . Any contamination that ever got into the system via the dip stick , oil changes or other things can/will damage that pump and motor - if one is damaged you will assume the other is damaged as well , nature of how it's built . They use a divorced pump/motor design with a manifold setup and steel lines joining the two units - those parts are a challenge in themselves and none of those systems are fun to work on . Even small leaks can turn into a real problem if they allow air to enter the system - it will damage the pump in short order .

 

The pump coupling to the engine is a sore spot on the D - and a very weak point to boot . There were a lot of bulletins written trying to correct this issue - the pump shaft is quite small and splined to accept the coupling which is held with two 5/16" bolts to the big Kohler/Onan engine's flywheel . A rubber ring was used to join those two pieces to allow some misalignment between the motor and pump . Over time , the cast section of that coupling can wear - and also wear the pump splines as well . It is quite common to have them strip the splines out , rendering the coupling junk and sometimes taking out the shaft as well . I just spoke to LJ Fluid Power yesterday about those shafts - the main shaft is still available new - at $230 or so . Add to that a set of seals , o-rings , needle bearings and seals , plus housing gasket and you're into it $300 alone to repair a stripped shaft - plus any additional costs when the pump is opened and all the piston/block/swash plate/valve plates are inspected . To top it off - that coupling is no longer available , only used parts that will have some wear - be wary of any for sale on auction sites , ect - that wear is hard to detect in a picture and most sellers have no idea what tolerances are allowed . It must fit that shaft tightly - or it will strip it out . Most of the issue is just due to the design and age along with wear and abuse - most D's seemed to be pushed quite hard due to their size and power . A D 200 will have the Kohler K-532 - one of their best ever engines in my opinion . Stupid levels of torque and the power rating was really underrated - you'd have to go to 25+hp today to match that engine , if no other reason than it's rotating mass and weight . Also , parts for that engine are NLA from Kohler - so keep that in mind too .

 

A good running D with the twin engine , a strong pump/motor that doesn't whine or lose power when it gets hot and was treated with some respect is a good one to own - they are an animal and capable of some pretty heavy work - heavy enough to damage themselves long term . While no fun to work on much of anything on it - they are a tough model and the heaviest WH built , with the frame being pretty much bullet proof . Ross steering boxes can have wear or issues - but those can be repaired pretty easily . Keep in mind too that even a stripped D160 model is north of 1,000lbs stock with no weights . A D180/200 with turning brakes / pto / 3pt will be over 1,300lbs . I have had problems with my shed holding my D-180 due to it's weight - it's bowing the floor joists . The correct blade is a 54-56" monster that is around 200lbs alone . All the implements for that model tractor are stupid heavy - so be aware of that if you have health problems , lol .

 

I refer to mine as Big Ugly - friends understand that name when they see it , but it gets the job done with ease .

 

Sarge

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