65lb Wheel Weights?

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,192]

Hello,

     I picked up a set of cast wheel weights, roughly 64+ lbs ea. The is evidence of yellow beneath a coat of white paint. Perhaps a type of John Deere? I'm liking them for my 16-6 steel wheels going on the 18 Auto. The bolt hole pattern is right @ 4 x-10-1/2 . Any thoughts what they were make they would have made for?

Edited November 17, 2017 by Oldman

[953 nut 51,465]

                 Doesn't matter who they were made for, weights are a good thing!                     Good find.

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,192]

Excellent! Here is another pair I am tempted to grab too. Now these are from a Cub Lowboy. 4 x 10-1/2 bolt pattern as well. Very Tempted!

[squonk 38,842]

Weights are a decent investment. If you get them at no more than a buck a pound you usually can at least get your money back if you find you can't use them.

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,192]

Now I am really tempted to get that other set of weights!

[Daddy Don 887]

Can 't go wrong on them

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,192]

That's one thing that needs little or no maintenance and holds it's value

[Tankman 3,515]

On November 17, 2017 at 11:59 PM, Oldman said:

That's one thing that needs little or no maintenance and holds it's value.

 

I have weights, look identical, to the red pair. Also a plastic filled pair, Craftsman, most always mounted, add

chains for snow plowing, works great and need them!

 

I would jump on that red pair if the price is right!

 

Can make weights, concrete filled brake drums.

Edited November 19, 2017 by Tankman

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,192]

 The Red weights are around 100lbs and selling for $100. However, he is a two hour drive other side of Harrisburg, PA  I believe I could meet him halfway. How do you hold a hundred lb weight in place to get the first bolt through? Not something I want landing on my foot.

[Tankman 3,515]

29 minutes ago, Oldman said:

 How do you hold a hundred lb weight in place to get the first bolt through? Not something I want landing on my foot.

Bolting weights on, not a piece of cake! Didn't need weights on the push mowers at Camp Lejeune.

 

I usually start one bolt, just snug enough to ease installation of the other three. 

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,192]

Camp Lejeune, h'mm? I never had the pleasure of mowing, but picked up a million cigarette butts!  I have done the same with the one bolt, but never anything over 50lb. I will have fun with the challenge then! I don't want to scratch the wheel,

[Tankman 3,515]

Considering the large diameter center hole perhaps mount the weights, then hang the wheels?

Lug nuts are on all my Horses, an upgrade for me. Easier to mount wheels. 

 

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,192]

The Red wheel weights would probably work like that, I was leaning in that direction. Creating studs is also a good idea, something I can think about now(not that I have a lot on my mind already!) , thank you.

[Sarge 3,462]

That is how I've done all of mine - lot easier on the back/shoulders and safer on the hands . On some weights , you can add the studs to the weight end , others can go into the wheel . When I use those closed center plastic ones such as Craftsman, ect I just run a longer carriage bolt through the wheel first and a nut on the lug side to retain them tightly . You'll have to sometimes use a washer depending on the thickness of the wheel's center plate to allow the heads to bottom tightly on the back side . It can take some adjusting to get them to line up correctly - if you leave them loose with the wheel laying on it's back flat on the ground you can set the alignment of those carriage bolts , then tighten down the nuts after removing the weight . I generally check them a few times to insure the dumb thing can come off as well as go on as smoothly as possible - it's no fun to fight getting one off if those studs aren't set just right . I did have one pair of solid cast iron 65lb units that I drilled two holes into and tapped them for a simple cabinet style handle , then removed the handle after they were installed . That helped a lot and it didn't hurt the weights in any way - just made it easier to deal with them . Just keep that stuff in mind for future work when you need to inspect axle seals and hubs - nothing worse than fighting a heavy weight that won't come off when you have an axle leaking like mad...

 

Sarge

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,192]

I like these ideas. I like the whole stud concept and the weights could be set onto the wheel that way very easily. Did you use all four bolts? I have yet sand blast the weights and get them painted some color? Undecided. I will hold off on putting the new wheels on yet, although, they look nice and I am tempted.......

[Tankman 3,515]

Studs work great and, yes, all four bolts for the weights.

 

Tractor Supply, excellent stock and pricing for the longer carriage bolts. 

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,192]

I was thinking, I have a pile of them all different lengths, test fit them and then go and get some there. Set up the new wheels and wait until the weights are repainted before I go any further. I am thinking about IH Red as always, but maybe a different color would contrast? Spoiled.

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,192]

Here, I set up a pair of "horses" and got my measurements, 4" carriage bolts.

[WVHillbilly520H 10,369]

On my 75# 2 hole weights I used "all thread" and a plastic "lock nut" on one end then a regular nut and lock washer against the wheel like studs then slid the weights over them and another lock nut tightened then cut of the excess, then on my other 520 I actually have two sets of weights bolted on 1 inside the wheel towards the trans the other hidden by wheel covers ,a little harder to get on there but doable, Jeff.

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,192]

There's a plenty of weight on there! Nice touch on the logo's.......

[WVHillbilly520H 10,369]

30 minutes ago, Oldman said:

There's a plenty of weight on there! Nice touch on the logo's.......

I did that out of aluminum on a CNC milling machine at work and thanks.

[Sarge 3,462]

Always use all 4 bolts - otherwise the weight can work loose enough to start to damage the wheel . I generally paint mine the tractor color for some contrast to the linen beige wheels . Also , any time the weight will bottom against a rim I mark those rub points and glue some 3/16-1/4" rubber to the weight to prevent rim damage , almost forgot about that . Just don't put any pads on the outer perimeter - it could wedge the weight into the rim . Many of the plastic and even cast iron weights have a large enough hole in the back side for the nuts to pass into so the pads keep them off the rims at the inside point of contact - also helps to allow any water/dirt to drain out.

 

Sarge

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,192]

The point of contact is in weird spots, maybe something thinner would suffice? I was thinking of something similar. I used a cardboard template when I was sizing the bolt length, then I picked up new bolts with sufficient threads all the way beneath the cap. Then the 4" bolts will be fastened with a nut and machine washer.

[Sarge 3,462]

As long as you can get them on/off while the tire is vertical - you got it licked . I really like the design of the common WH weight for this reason - you can reach through the center to unbolt the wheel without removing the weight - which is a real plus .

 

Sarge

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,192]

I tried to locate a similar style weight, I jumped on the first set close to me. The other set with a larger center are two hours away and 45lbs heavier.......I will be able to install and remove the weights, no problem. (I hope)