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Hi, hoping someone can help. I'm over in France trying to tidy up my place before the winter so do not have all the tools I have back at home. I have a separate problem with the gear box but have posted separately.
Back in July when l last used the tractor it was loosing power when it got hot, and looking on the internet it appeared that the coil may be the problem.
i have just returned to France and brought a new coil with me and replaced the old one. This coil has a separate ballast resistor attached. The tractor started first go and I started to cut the grass but with gearbox problems. The grass was long and thick in places and the tractor coped well, just heading the governor apply a bit more power in places. Them after about half an hour the engine lost power and there were some visible flames commons ftom the exhaust.
can any one tell me what is happening here. I assume that it is heat related because the engine started first go and then ran well. But it must have been fully up to temperature long before this loss of power. Seeing flames from the exhaust indicates that the fuel is not being burnt in the cylinder, is this an ignition problem? Or are the valve not shutting properly an the fuel is just being pushed straight out of the engine?
I'm sure it would look quite cool after dark, but with no power the grass will keep growing. Hop some one can help.
Working on a 1969 Raider 12 for a friend.
As far as I can tell, the engine is the correct one for this tractor. It was missing the entire air cleaner, so the owner got an air cleaner housing, but I have found that it will not fit on this carb.
The mounting holes on the air cleaner base are 1 7/8" center to center for both the horizontal and vertical holes.
The carb has been roughed up a little and the 2 horizontal holes have been "wallowed" out and a piece of the aluminum casting has actually been broke off and some type of plastic filler was used to "hide" the damage. Can't do much to repair this as the choke shaft rotates here.
The vertical holes on the carb are 1 5/8" center to center.
Can anyone shed any light on this? Is the carb for older K301 engine different than the carbs for say a middle 70's K301?
I think I will just pull this carb and install one off of another 12 hp that already has the air cleaner base on it!
Followed up the Trailblazer 7 purchase with another good CL find. This one is a REALLY good one. Picked up a 68' Raider 12 That came with wheel weights, chains, 48" deck in insanely good condition, and a dump cart with hydraulics! I'm not sure if the cart is an actual Wheel horse, it could be but the tires aren't right. Obviously the hydraulics aren't original. Either way, I paid the equivalent of buying the cart and wheel weights at Fair market value. I couldn't believe it made it past 24 hours. Nice to know I don't have much competition in the area!
Couple of questions on the setup of this beast. My buddy thinks it was a pulling tractor. It has the rear wheel hub extensions (which I don't mind at all. Looks slick if you ask me), it also has a modified throttle body which works fantastic and is a thousand times better than the twist-lock cable, it had a homemade steering tensioner at the base of the steering wheel made from a spring and half a coffee can lid to protect the paint, and the footboards have extensions off the front sides. The fella I bought it from got the tractor from his uncle who I'm guessing passed away because he didn't have much info on the tractor at all. He wasn't sure why things were setup like they were. Certainly explains why the deck is pretty much mint. I swear those blades are original. Overall, the thing runs like a top and purs like a kitten with the modified muffler.
Will the 48" deck mount up on my attachomatic setup on my 69' Raider? That's the other thing, take a look at this rear. There are no latches.
Thanks in advance for any info!
Got my transmission fixed last year in time for winter and have been mowing all spring/summer no problem until tonight. I got a Raider 12 with a 5060 transmission and when I was mowing the lawn today I went to shift the tractor from 1st to 2nd gear and nothing happened. I didn't hear a grind or anything, but put the tractor back in neutral, shut off the mowing deck and tried going into to gear. The tractor wouldn't move at all. I can still roll the tractor in neutral but shifting the transmission in gear with the tractor off does not have the tractor brake.
I already think I know what the answer is, but is there anyway I did not strip a gear in the transmission and not have to drop the transmission to find and replace the gear that probably stripped?
Thanks for help.