Jump to content
Steve_O

Loaded tires

Recommended Posts

Steve_O

I've got a new to me C-161 (hydrostatic).

 

It has rear cast iron wheel weights that I estimate to be around 150 lbs combined based on external dimensions. 

 

Primary use will be snow clearing, pushing a 54" plow. 

 

Is there any reason I should not also load the tires?

 

It currently has ag tires.  I don't plan to add chains until I see how it does without.

 

I'm also working on a 520h w/ two stage blower for deep stuff.  So the 161 would be more for light snow or slushy cleanup.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine

I'd have them filled.

More weight should equal more traction. 

Mine have rimguard that was installed by a local dealer.

 

I'm curious to know if anyone has a reason Not to do it.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
BOB ELLISON

I have a C160 with filled rear tires.

I filled them with RV antifreeze  and I also have chains on but no other weights on it. It pushes snow like a dream. But if you are NOT going to use chain's yes fill them. The more weight the better,you can always add chains later if you need to. 

From what I've read the ag tires are not that good on ice the turf tires are a better choice. 

Edited by BOB ELLISON
  • Like 1
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
JimmyJam
12 hours ago, BOB ELLISON said:

I have a C160 with filled rear tires.

I filled them with RV antifreeze

How do you fill them? How much RV antifreeze do you use per tire?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Sarge

I run loaded ags on all 4 corners on both the 16 Auto and the old 1277 . Both have the common WH cast iron weights to boot both front and rear . Rear tires came in right at 145lbs with RV antifreeze and the weights each - wasn't expecting it to be that high but I loaded as much as I could possibly stuff in there with a drill pump and using 2 valve stems . They do go down a bit after awhile and checking pressure is messy - do not use a good digital or expensive gauge to check them - it will get ruined quickly . Also run chains on the rear on both units , year round . The 1277 has Carlisle Tru Power ags on a 4 corners , the 16hp runs those on the rear and Deestone's on the front . The Carlisles are far superior in traction - their rubber compound is like magic , even on ice . Steers exactly where I point it , never slips . Steering effort is fine - but I put full bushings in my front axles whenever I get a new tractor - I hate replacing spindles . I also always run double set screws on the rear hubs and make certain they stay tight - that much weight in the tires can really tear up a hub quickly . If I remember right , the rear tires hold nearly 7 gallons each of the antifreeze .

 

It does come with some drawbacks - one being frame strength and potential damage to the diff/axles . The rear mounting plate on the 1277 has broken twice - now it's literally shattered and has to be replaced as the metal is too brittle now from the repairs . The 16 Auto has not been pushed real hard yet - but the post '73 tractors did have some changes to the rear of the frame and seem to be a bit stronger - either way I'd spend some time reinforcing it as best you can . All that traction can break stuff - the force has to go somewhere and you start chasing problems - usually starting within the diff . The older 1277 has the 2-pin automotive style differential with bevel gears and has proven to be tough as nails - no damage to it yet despite that tractor pushing some really serious material - such as 30 tons or angular chipped rock for a driveway that was in several piles . It's also pulled enough trailer weight to literally snap the hydro drive belt twice which takes a lot to break a Kevlar belt - so be careful and wary of how far you push the tractor's ability . Some models may start cracking the frame at the foot rest support rod where it passes through the angle iron - keep an eye on that area . Also , loaded front tires will place a lot more stress on the steering components - so keep an eye on them and use a very high quality grease , always removing the weight off the axle by picking the front up by the frame so the grease can spread to where it's needed . I need to upgrade both tractors to heavier heim joints or something - the rod ends will not last long when they are worked hard with loaded tires .

 

This stuff is no different than running a daily driver/trail rig in the 4x4 world - everything you upgrade just moves to the next weakest link and nothing is ever stout enough not to break . I've spent almost 20yrs driving my 4x4's with lifts and tires that tear up components from one end to the other - the tractors are no different . If I could find a much heavier rear axle for the D that would be the machine for the heavier work as the C-series rear diff is not strong enough to support the extra axle length - it will fail far too easily for what the D is capable of so the tires will not get loaded on that one .

 

Sarge

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
BOB ELLISON

@JimmyJam I have 23-8.50×12 rear tires and I did add tubes. I purchased 12 gal of RV antifreeze but only got 5 1/2 gallons per tire. There is a valve you can buy that is made for filling tires. Just go up to search on main page for filling tires. Tractor supply has this one

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/slime-air-water-adapter-kit-with-bleeder-valve

 

 

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/38496-filling-tires/?tab=comments#comment-345815

Edited by BOB ELLISON
  • Like 1
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ClassicTractorProfessor

The valve that Bob posted the link to works great...i bought one to load the new tires on my C125. I'm running 23x10.50-12 ags loaded with 6.5 gallons of windshield washer fluid...wonder how I ever got along without them 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Steve_O

I fit 12 gallons between front and rear.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...