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dhr5050

How to get stud out?

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Hello everyone

Below is a picture of a stud I can't remove. I was wondering if anybody has had this problem and how they dealt with it? 

  Also, I think this is the 7/16 stud  ( #104842)..not completely sure though because I can't find any pictures of it anywhere other than some detail lacking diagrams

20171029_144517.jpg

20171029_144453.jpg

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First, buy the penetrant oil named FREE-ALL.  Kinday pricey, but works well.  Spray generously onto threads and let soak a couple hours...spray again if wanted.. 

2nd...use a pair of LOCKING vise grip pliers on the short stub, as close as possible to the crankshaft.  LOCK THE PLIERS as TIGHT AS POSSIBLE.  Then, give the locked-on pliers a WHACK to 'impact' the stud, hoping to break it loose.  If that fails, try again, but this time...USE A HOT WRENCH to heat up the END of the crankshaft...thjen whack the pliers again.  (You should wrap a wet rag around the crankshaft up against the block to spare the bearing and seal from heat.) 

If all that fails, cut the bolt off flush and drill a  5/6-3/8  hole in the center of it...at least 1" deep.  Then get the EZ-outs ready and try that. 

 

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Weld a nut on the end of the stud...

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You can also eliminate all those parts that push the pto bell out if you replace the outer pto shaft in the outer bearing to a newer design that used 2 snap rings - one each side of the bearing. Then the pto lever and rod will pull the pto out.

Pto shaft item 33

2 snap rings item 34

If you do this just cut the broken stud off flush.

http://www.partstree.com/parts/toro/mowers-lawn-garden-tractor/31-12k801-312-8-toro-312-8-garden-tractor-1990/pto-clutch-and-control/

 

Garry

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1 hour ago, roadapples said:

Weld a nut on the end of the stud...

 

Yup ^^

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If you have to ask, then apparently you do not have the tools or experience in removing these. Take it to a machine shop, they can get it out without damage to crank. 

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DHR,,,,,,:text-coolphotos:  welcome to the group !!!!!!!Always  remember,,,,If we don't know,,,,ask !!!!  

 

                                                                                 Howard857Horse,,,,,,,,Stafford,Va

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On 29 October 2017 at 9:49 PM, Digger 66 said:

 

Yup ^^

Nut welded on should do it. 

If you have a bolt/stud broken off close to, or just below the face of a casting, etc, find a washer with a hole the size or slightly smaller than the bolt, hold it over the bolt, then hit it with the mig. The washer should stop you welding the bolt to the casting. Then hold a nut, a half / thin nut is best, over the washer / bolt and fill the centre of the nut with weld. This usually puts enough heat into the assembly to allow you to crack it free. Good luck:clap:

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1 hour ago, ranger said:

Nut welded on should do it. 

If you have a bolt/stud broken off close to, or just below the face of a casting, etc, find a washer with a hole the size or slightly smaller than the bolt, hold it over the bolt, then hit it with the mig. The washer should stop you welding the bolt to the casting. Then hold a nut, a half / thin nut is best, over the washer / bolt and fill the centre of the nut with weld. This usually puts enough heat into the assembly to allow you to crack it free. Good luck:clap:

Exactly....

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