Straight From the Horse's Mouth - The final chapter

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brian_32

Wheel Horse plow on an old Cub?

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I'm curious, I have a 1967 Cub 123 (in addition to a few horses), and I'd like to plow with it this winter.  Has anyone put a Wheel Horse plow on a an old Cub?  If so, how difficult a fit up is it?

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Hello and :WRS: Brian.

I take it you are talking snow plowing? if the frame lengths are compatible I would think so. Most WH plows mounted to the rear axles I believe. Not a snow plowing expert here but others  will be along to help out who are.

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Thanks, great to be here, owned quite a few Wheel Horse's over the years.  I currently have a C141 (currently with a 5000 watt Wheel Horse generator mounted up), Electro 12 (sort-of), and a project tractor, a 417A currently getting repowered with a single cylinder Kohler 16 hp (work in process).  My primary plow (snow) tractor has been a parts bin machine I picked up years ago, has an ID tag and hoodstand from a 1970 Electro 12, a rear end/hydro from a GT 14, a C series hood, and has been updated to take Attach-A-Matic implements... It's been an awesome machine, I've owned it for over ten years, and have stripped and repainted it a few times.  I till with it, mow with it, and push snow with it.  The last few times I've used it, I've had some issues, the hydro is getting sloppy, neutral position is pretty much non-existent, and the hydro seems to get weak the longer it's ran/used.  I guess the point is, I have the old Cub, and it's a very well made machine, just no fun to change attachments... So... I'm thinking about fitting the WH plow up on my Cub for this winter...

 

Edited by brian_32
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With a welder and talent, anything's possible. :banana-wrench:

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:WRS:           May need to make or modify a rear axle bracket, but very doable.

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Well, I'd really prefer not to modify my one and only axle bracket, but the rear end on the Cub is a lot larger than the Electro 12.  I fabbed up a couple 2x2, 1/4 wall tubes to space the axle bracket down, and picked up some long carriage bolts, but the diameter of the axles is also larger, so I'm running into a few stumbling blocks.  

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5 hours ago, squonk said:

With a welder and talent, anything's possible. :banana-wrench:

Ah, I have a welder...

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I have a welder as well, but it's getting late, and my Friday started at early, so I'm about all finished up for the night.  It's supposed to be a crappy weekend, so I'll spend a good share of it in the garage.  If it starts to be too much of a project, I'll throw the factory plow back on the Cub and park it out front with a "For Sale" sign on her...  I have three Wheel Horses that will wear that plow with pride, and aside from mounting the axle bracket, install is usually about ten minutes, gotta love that.

 

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15 minutes ago, roadapples said:

Ah, I have a welder...

      What are you saying  Jay....   You never won one of these ?                                                            Image result for pictures of natural talents

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:WRS: a couple of u bolts and an adapter plate should fix you right up?

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8 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

      What are you saying  Jay....   You never won one of these ?                                                            Image result for pictures of natural talents

I'm worse off. I have no welder. Have no talent. And my eyesight is so bad I can't see well enough behind a shield. But I do have a torch! :)

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26 minutes ago, squonk said:

I do have a torch!

Image result for madman with a torch

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4 hours ago, squonk said:

I'm worse off. I have no welder. Have no talent. And my eyesight is so bad I can't see well enough behind a shield. But I do have a torch! :)

Get an Optrel Vegaview 2.5 - I'm pretty blind (if I drop my glasses I can't find them , not kidding) but can tig and stick weld with that hood all day long . It uses a true color lens and a light state of 2.5 - lowest in the industry and it does not use a green or blue tint - which is rough on your eyes anyway .

 

It should be quite easy to make a new mount for the Cub - I always hated how their implements hook up and wondered why their customer base tolerated such a rotten design . Friends of mine have them - they see how easy the WH system is they can't believe it ., lol .

 

Sarge

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18 minutes ago, Sarge said:

Get an Optrel Vegaview 2.5 - I'm pretty blind (if I drop my glasses I can't find them , not kidding) but can tig and stick weld with that hood all day long . It uses a true color lens and a light state of 2.5 - lowest in the industry and it does not use a green or blue tint - which is rough on your eyes anyway .

 

It should be quite easy to make a new mount for the Cub - I always hated how their implements hook up and wondered why their customer base tolerated such a rotten design . Friends of mine have them - they see how easy the WH system is they can't believe it ., lol .

 

Sarge

But what about my lack of talent? :confusion-confused:

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9 hours ago, Sarge said:

 

It should be quite easy to make a new mount for the Cub - I always hated how their implements hook up and wondered why their customer base tolerated such a rotten design . Friends of mine have them - they see how easy the WH system is they can't believe it ., lol .

 

Sarge

I agree the snow blades were a bit of a PITA but the front blade on my dad's 1200  will lift a good 6"+ off the ground at the wear edge vs the 3-4" of our beloved WH, also the rear clevis hitch is/was of a better design with more lift capability and adjustability, just my personal experiences, Jeff.

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22 hours ago, squonk said:

But what about my lack of talent? :confusion-confused:

 

Send me a plane ticket , or head West - I can teach anyone to weld .

 

All of my WH plows will lift at least 8" off the ground easily - make sure your rear axle bracket is spaced low enough below the trans - some of them seem to sit higher and that affects how high the blade lifts . The center rock shaft linkage also comes into play in a big way as well as which front axle you have . The only ones I know of that lift the blade quite low are the manual lift C-series due to how it's rock shaft arm works with the blade . When pushing snow I can use the hydro lift on any of mine to make snow ramps to pile the snow higher and keep it out of the main yard to avoid having to clean up so much rock from the parking lot .

 

I think the Cub and Deere guys were the originators of using "one tractor for each attachment" due to their difficult to swap attachments and how the tractors were designed .

 

Sarge

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Oh I can weld. or used too. But between eyesight and the shakes from my meds, it's best for me to farm out anything that needs to be done. I have a local retired guy who has the skills to do anything I need.

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I can understand that - there are days the eyes won't cooperate and welding is out of the question . Any high stress structural work goes to the guy next door - he's got 10yrs on me but has better sight and welds every day with his business . Not to mention , he's a savant at it...lol .

Meds suck , mine help a lot but at times do cause some tremors - that isn't much fun trying to assemble small parts that I used to be able to do easily . Irritating to say the least .

 

Sarge

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5 hours ago, Sarge said:

 

All of my WH plows will lift at least 8" off the ground easily - make sure your rear axle bracket is spaced low enough below the trans - some of them seem to sit higher and that affects how high the blade lifts . The center rock shaft linkage also comes into play in a big way as well as which front axle you have . The only ones I know of that lift the blade quite low are the manual lift C-series due to how it's rock shaft arm works with the blade . When pushing snow I can use the hydro lift on any of mine to make snow ramps to pile the snow higher and keep it out of the main yard to avoid having to clean up so much rock from the parking lot .

 

Sarge

The blade frame will only come up as far as the front axle on matter how low the rear axle bracket is attached, more than I on RS have complained about the low lift height of the snow plows on the B,C,3,4,500 series(especially the 520 with swept forward axle and lower tie rod mounts when turning they come in contact with the blade frame) where as the CC actually pivots in front of the axle and is lifted from a point beyond on the A frame then to a rod the rockshaft or lift arm thereby allowing a higher lift height, and again my personal experiences, Jeff....https://youtu.be/fDP6YIahI9s

 

IMAG3102.jpg

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To get more plow  lift on my 312 H, I removed the  6 " wheels and installed 8" leaving the long spindles in place.  This raised the front axle almost 2".   I also made an anti-sway/lift  stop that stops the blade just before it hits the front axle. I also use this to limit the  low position for plowing the stone road. With this arrangement,  I get 7" lift.  Jeff is correct, the front axle limits the max plow height.   Sarge is also correct, by lowering the rear of the frame, the plow will lift higher, but only by 1/2 the amount you lower the rear.   :twocents-02cents:

 

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Well, after thinking it over, and a drive around the yard on the Cub, I made the smart decision.  The AG tires are off the Cub and on the Wheel Horse, and the plow is where it belongs.  All dressed for winter.

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Keep looking around I'm sure you can find a "narrow frame" plow for the Cub Cadet if you really want one for it, Jeff

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