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How about the oil drain? Do you guys just pipe it around the pulleys, or just let it run out where it may and clean up afterwards?

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7 hours ago, UncleJerm76 said:

See below for answers to:

 

***** A. Hate to keep bugging you guys with boring parts requests,

 

but I'm struggling finding the correct Kohler maintenance kit for my motor. I believe I have K161S ...does that sound right? Even after a good scrubbing, the Kohler metal plate on the motor is extremely hard to read anything off of - but I don't think the 1961 701's had any other motor option (as best I ca tell)? I downloaded the Kohler Service manual which covered the following models: K91-K141-K161-K181-K241-K301-K321-K341. While it was full of good basic information it did not give a part number for a maintenance kit or even individual items (air cleaner, spark plug, engine oil or fuel filter). My

 

 

***** B., but reviews were all over the place on the aftermarket stuff, some saying it didn't fit their engine others saying it fit great. Id rather stick with one of Kohler's own OEM maintenance kits to ensure highest quality and fit. Last thing I want is to not have a good seal around the air filter or find out some other cheaply made part ended up wrecking havoc on my K-series.

 

I have one more maintenance question - the oil drain plug is directly over the 3 pulleys that engages the mower deck.

 

 

***** C. How in the heck do you guys drain the oil without getting it all over everything?

A. I'm not speaking for anyone else but, I doubt you're "Bugging" those who answer you.

Great bunch of folks on this site (I'm pretty new too) that are Very happy to help you.

 

B. Stick with the vendors ON the :rs: site and you'll likely be pretty happy. Not advertising or lobbying for anyone, just been treated really well by a couple.

 

C. I don't have the tractor you do but I've seen people make a "splash" drain pan with a kitchen aluminum baking pan. Others will give you better advice (I hope). 

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5 hours ago, UncleJerm76 said:

How about the oil drain?

Get one of these off set funnies at most auto parts stores, work great.

Image result for oil drain jug funnel

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51 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

:teasing-poke:

Way better than a straight funnie

 

Hehehehehehehe.

My fat finger typing is the reason I get so many quotes around here!                :ROTF:

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Here’s what I’m referring to, the drain plug is running right behind the pulleys, it would drain all over them and get between the bracket and the frame. No room for funnies in there :P

 

4181C151-3920-4B26-A8AC-59371B400BB2.jpeg

Edited by UncleJerm76
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5 hours ago, Mikey the Monkey said:

Mine has a pipe to divert oil away:scared-ghostface:

KIMG0160.jpg

Thanks Mikey! This confirms the route I’m going to need to go. I wanted to use one of Kirk Engines magnetic drain plugs, but that’s not really an option with the pipe. Ive had excellent results with magnetic drain plugs in my other engines. 

Edited by UncleJerm76
avoiding grammar police
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There is no specific service manual for the tractor other than one for the Uni-drive transmission. 

The engine suppliers provided those. Click on the picture.

There was a service manual published for the 1978-79 models that has many details that work for all models/years.

Your tractor is basically an early B-Series or C-Series with a short frame = shorter wheelbase. Later B-Series used an engine with a vertical crankshaft.

Garry

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8 hours ago, UncleJerm76 said:

Here’s what I’m referring to, the drain plug is running right behind the pulleys, it would drain all over them and get between the bracket and the frame. No room for funnies in there :P

 

4181C151-3920-4B26-A8AC-59371B400BB2.jpeg

Notice your drive belts have raw rubber sides which seldom quit driving when the tension is released. All our belts are fabric covered to help them slip in a no-tension situation except for the starter/generator belts that use raw rubber for better traction. The other exception is a belt that bends backwards over a flat idler pulley requires special construction to get a reasonable life expectancy.

 

Garry

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1 hour ago, gwest_ca said:

Notice your drive belts have raw rubber sides which seldom quit driving when the tension is released. All our belts are fabric covered to help them slip in a no-tension situation except for the starter/generator belts that use raw rubber for better traction. The other exception is a belt that bends backwards over a flat idler pulley requires special construction to get a reasonable life expectancy.

 

Garry

 

Good eye! I did not know there was a difference other than breaking strength, I will pay attention to this and if it becomes a problem now I know who to come to for the correct belt. :thanks:

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11 hours ago, UncleJerm76 said:

drain plug is running right behind the pulleys, it would drain all over them and get between the bracket and the frame.

I see your situation, guess the best thing to do is remove the belt and cover everything with plastic bags while draining then go with the drain pipe.

2 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

No room for funnies in there

Don't guess I will ever live that down.      :ychain:

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11 hours ago, 953 nut said:

.....

Don't guess I will ever live that down.      :ychain:

Not just Anyone can come up with a priceless gem like that  !

Edited by ebinmaine
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First off as many said...Welcome to Red Square.  This place has amazing people that are so knowledgeable and very helpful.

 

As many have mentioned already, the 701 is a great collectible tractor and personally my favorite.  Currently I have 5 of the 701 tractors.

 

You can contact me or anyone for help as you have already found out.

 

 

Forgot.....

 

The side panels on this deck are easily replaceable.  They are just a piece of sheet metal bent with mounting holes.

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On 10/17/2017 at 9:13 AM, 953 nut said:

I see your situation, guess the best thing to do is remove the belt and cover everything with plastic bags while draining then go with the drain pipe.

 

I finally jumped into changing the oil with plain 30W. I took your advice and removed the small primary deck belt first followed by covering the rest with a plastic bag. I cut the top off a empty windshield wiper fluid jug and stuffed what was left of the bag hanging into it so that is where the oil would be directed. It worked great other than that darn pulley bracket bolted to the frame. It got all behind it as I assumed it would and will probably be dripping oil for days to come ...oh well, I'm sure it isn't the first time it has happened to this old gal :P

09FEE12E-7F0F-4EDC-8E19-75DE772F1B93.jpeg

 

 

 

I was not very happy with the condition and thickness of the oil coming out so I took the time to clean out the inside of the motor with carb cleaner from both the pour hole and the drain hole - sludge poured out and I kept going till it was clean. Three cans later and its now squeaky clean in there. then I just waited for everything inside to dry.

47BEAAC8-33E6-4CBA-B8AA-EEBA6D87F7C1.jpeg

65D3035D-3D3F-40D2-BA88-0241DA9CD179.jpeg

 

 

 

Next I decided that I would put off the "drain pipe" idea so that I could add four Neodymium Magnets to my drain plug and test whether or not it would would catch any metal floating around. In every case I used magnets - even pressurized systems with filters, it has always snagged metal bits - blows me away how much is actually floating around inside engines! If during my next oil change I discover metal, then I will abandon the pipe drain idea and stick to doing it this way in order to continue catching the metal bits on the magnet.

0B6D7D6E-08B2-430F-BF1B-6CD5D2CB21EA.jpeg

 

 

 

As an experiment I also wanted a couple magnets at the end of my dipstick. The idea is if I discover it caught metal then I can have my cake and eat it too — proceeding with the pipe drain and let the dipstick catch the metal bits. I cleaned the dipstick real good then decked the end of it perfectly flat. Next I mixed up a small batch of JBWelb on one of the carb cleaner caps and epoxy'd two Neodymium Magnets together and also to the end of the dipstick (I didn't want to take a chance on them getting stuck to something else inside when the dipstick was being inserted or removed). Neodymium Magnets are supposed to be among the strongest magnets on earth and these tiny buggers really are quite powerful, id imagine I would have to tear the motor apart if they came off the dipstick, so JB Weld was a necessity. 

AA7377E4-89D8-4D52-B298-A17CF6498D93.jpeg

FCCC75DD-6C4D-41B9-9240-F676699D76DB.jpeg

 

The last thing I did was pull the spark plug wire and spin the motor over several times giving the starter/generator time to cool between spins to try and splash as much oil around to lube everything up again before I fired it up.

 

Ill followup after my next oil change with results of the magnets. 

 

 

Edited by UncleJerm76
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On 10/16/2017 at 11:22 AM, Achto said:

A k161 is the correct engine for your tractor. Here is a link for Kohler & aftermarket air filters, the k161 & 181 take the same filter.http://www.psep.biz/store/kohler_air_filters.htm  They also have many other parts for your engine.For oil use a strait 30wt. Spark plug Champion # H10C or RH10C.

 

Thank you, I'm just curious where did you get this info from? According to the source below, Kohler recommends the Champion RJ8C plug for the K161 :confusion-confused:

Source: http://www.kohler-engine-parts.opeengines.com/kohler-engines-parts/spark-plugs/kohler-engine-spark-plug-application-chart

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25 minutes ago, UncleJerm76 said:

According to the source below, Kohler recommends the Champion RJ8C plug for the K161 :confusion-confused:

 

Sorry,My bad, should have checked a few suppliers instead of just 1 ( who had it listed wrong). Also on the air cleaner, some K161's use the same air filter as the K91's. Only real difference being the deck height or thickness of the filter 1 1/2" or 2 3/8".

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7 minutes ago, Achto said:

 

Sorry,My bad, should have checked a few suppliers instead of just 1 ( who had it listed wrong). Also on the air cleaner, some K161's use the same air filter as the K91's. Only real difference being the deck height or thickness of the filter 1 1/2" or 2 3/8".

I noticed this too when looking for a new filter. I’ve got the smaller one but I think I would eventually  like to snag a K91 filter cover so I can use the bigger filter  and let this Kohler breathe a little easier.

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Late to the party here but :WRS:

Sounds like the guys got you off to a good start other than Dick's typos and Dan giving bum dope on plugs :ychain: A 701 is on my bucket list and if I ever get into Mr Harrison's @hcminis herd of 701's it's gonna be like a fox in the hen house! :)  Don't worry about bugging us about questions most guys here live for questions! :lol:

I also try to incorporate a magnet in my drain plugs since these gals don't have a filter. may not help but sure can't hurt. I have the drain plug on most of my Kohlers  piped strait down in my eternal quest for an oil change without a mess. I don't run decks on any of my round hoods tho

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1 hour ago, WHX12 said:

Late to the party here but :WRS:

Sounds like the guys got you off to a good start other than Dick's typos and Dan giving bum dope on plugs :ychain: A 701 is on my bucket list and if I ever get into Mr Harrison's @hcminis herd of 701's it's gonna be like a fox in the hen house! :)  Don't worry about bugging us about questions most guys here live for questions! :lol:

I also try to incorporate a magnet in my drain plugs since these gals don't have a filter. may not help but sure can't hurt. I have the drain plug on most of my Kohlers  piped strait down in my eternal quest for an oil change without a mess. I don't run decks on any of my round hoods tho

 

LOL @WHX12 ....careful now.  Grew up on a farm and we protect our hen houses very well from the pesty fox.....LOL  I'm sure there is a 701 in my herd (hen house as you mentioned) that could be for sale.

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2 hours ago, hcminis said:

the pesty fox

 LOL..... I'll take the pretty red one with the "rooster comb" on the side! :lol:

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