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Geez, it seems like it's been forever since I've been on here. Hope you guys didn't miss me too much. Based on the fact that I had no notifications waiting, I'm guessing not. Lol!
Anyway, I'm thinking of putting an electric clutch on my D-180. Some of you might remember that I replaced the original Kohler K series 18 hp twin with a 25 HP Kohler Command when I broke a rod in the original engine and could not find any replacements. With the modifications I had to make on the clutch linkage, and the fact that I've also outfitted this machine with a 60" deck, the existing manual clutch just can't generate the pressure against the plate that I'd like. The clutch surfaces are fine. Does anyone have any experience with an electric clutch on your D series? I want to maintain the 2 pulley system to drive the rear PTO. What do I need to know? How the heck to those things enen attach to the engine? They all seem like they're earmarked for a specific machine, but are they somewhat universal in design? Some photos would help. I've got a 1 1/8" shaft to work with. Plenty of length to make any forward/aft adjustments.
Does anybody have a good source for replacement front wheel bearings for a mid to late 1970's D160 wheel horse tractor? There are two push in bearing units (inner and outer) per wheel. I first attempted to replace with standard bearings but quickly found out these are not standard sizes. It's been a while since I check and I don't completely remember, but I think the wheelhorse bearings where something like 1/16" of an inch larger OD than a standard catalog bearing. At the time, I remember finding bearings but they wanted somthing like $100 for each bearing. I was able to located two bearings and did purchase them for a reasonible price, but am still looking for two for completing the set. The part numbe ron the two that I was able to locate is 104396. If anybody has any ideas, I would appreciate.
Fast question ...
Per the IPL for the 6-1141 and 6-1131 54" & 56" blades - how is everyone pinning the rear blade lock arms so they can't unlock the blade ? I've ran into problems with this thing before wanting to unlock itself and drop the blade half off the tractor. It seems when back dragging rough pavement, especially if I back into a snow bank the thing is moving those locks out of position and allowing the frame to drop off. The only reason it stays at least somewhat under the D is the lift arm , but getting it back into position is no fun due to the weight of this thing and especially out in the snow/cold weather. Last time I had to drag the thing back to a clear area so I could wrestle it back into position, lift the frame and lock it again. I did wire them shut for now, but don't trust it and I use it to back drag quite a bit on rough areas I don't want to ram the cutting edge against and risk damaging the rear axle differential or anything else. Mine has been rebuilt with a new cutting edge of 1055HC and the frame is highly beefed up - most of it is now boxed in and the thing has gained nearly 50lbs of steel. It cuts great, almost too good but that random dropping it off is starting to irritate me - need some ideas here...
The smaller 42" and other frames lock from the other direction - so to speak. The brackets are also drilled to accept large hair pin cotters to keep those locks in place - I see no way the bigger blade frame is designed for that, unless I'm missing something ?