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Got the coupling modified , keyway cut , new spline piece from a later model C welded into it and running into a misalignment issue . Seems like the engine is 1/2" too far forward ??
I need this thing tight to the front pump mount so it's got as much of the splines engaged as possible and utilizes the 3/16" wide key to take the abuse I had machined into the pump shaft (that hurt, btw) . I set the coupling within .030" of the bracket , which is where it sat before although previously someone stacked a whole lot of washers between the coupling and the engine's flywheel . Is the rubber puck perhaps backwards , somehow ??
You can see just how far it's pulling on the rubber section , bowing out the two sides attached to the engine's flywheel .
Looking closely , the black allen socket set screw holds the key in place tightly - and I mean TIGHT . I want zero movement against those splines - in my opinion that is why these things wear out too easily .
I seem to remember there are two raised portions on the rubber ring - on each side of it and there is a difference , perhaps it's the wrong direction ?
Any insights - bring 'em on - it's an odd 92* day here in September and I'm sure we'll pay for it next week ...ugh .
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I know in the past someone posted up the sizes/numbers for the o-rings that fit between the hydro pump and the steel lines' manifold blocks on the D-series - I'd imagine the ones at the pump end and rear axle are the same ....?
Will be changing my pump soon due to the hydro to engine coupler blew out it's splines and took out the shaft along with it . Evidently a trailer weighing around 2.5 tons was too much....
I'll try to write up a post on how to build a new coupler from a later model C series pump pulley's center ring and a worn D coupler as well - trying to finish up the Ross steering box right now .
I bought a D-250 a while back and I really like it but she's got a couple ghost problems that I can't seem to wrap my head around.
I believe that it's a '76. It has the Renault engine in it.
So three different times now... I've hit a small stump, stopping the mower dead in it's tracks. All three episodes were moderately violent. In two of the occasions, it stalled the mower after I disengaged the deck and backed off of the stump.
So here's where it gets weird.
After each incident, the mower would no longer start. If I pulled the choke all the way on, it'd fire up and rev to the sky... Like sketchy high rpms which all three times was the only way I could limp it back to the barn.
After completing cooling down and tweaking the fuel mixture screw back and forth, I've been able to get it to run well again...
Sometimes I can ease the choke off and the governor goes crazy surging off and on... But in most cases, it simply won't run with the choke off.
So what in the heck does this have to do with the impacts?
The only theory I currently have is that it jolts the fuel tank and fuel filter badly enough to shake up some contamination... But that's just a wild guess. It's also definitely temperature related, because I can mess with carb settings enough to fix it so long as it isn't up to temperature yet.
So there it is... Any of you guys ever heard of a crash related fuel issue?
I feel like I'm going crazy. I know I'm missing something here in the troubleshooting.
Thanks a bunch!